Mazda :: 2005 Wants To Stall When In Low Gear / Decelerating
Apr 1, 2013
I drive an '05 Mazda 3, manual transmission. About a month ago, I accidentally killed the battery completely by leaving the trunk slightly open for a couple days. After getting a new battery, my car idles very noisily, making rattling noises, and constantly feels like it's almost stalling when driving slowly or decelerating. It only stalled entirely once, in a parking lot. My friend thought this was due to the ECU crashing and trying to figure things out, so we put the car through an ECU reset procedure, but nothing changed.
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The gear selector on my 2005 Mazda 3 with automatic transmission is difficult to move between P, R, N, and D positions. It does not "click" or fall into position like it used to. It has gradually gotten worse. When the car is in Park, it seems to not want to go all the way up into the Park slot. Even though the car actually parked, the P will not light up on the dashboard, which sometimes causes the car not to start when the key is turned. So sometimes I have to put it in Neutral to start.
Now the problem is that when it is in Drive, it will "fall out of gear". I put that in quotes because it is still in drive, but it was shift up to a higher gear if i don't physically pull the gear selector knob back. For example, if i'm driving and the car is in 4th gear going 60mph, and the shifter know slides up an eight of an inch, the D light will go off and the car will move into a higher gear (not sure which one, feels like 2nd or 3rd) and the engine will rev up. It doesn't feel like neutral.
Is there anything I can do myself? I plan on trading in the car in the next couple months, but I'd prefer to not have to get it worked on until then.
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We've owned this 2002 Mazda Tribute v6 for six years. Recently, the car has become somewhat dangerous to drive. While driving down the road at any speed, releasing the throttle does not result in the engine decelerating or returning to idle. Instead, it continues to hold the speed steady for 3-5 seconds before the RPMs drop. At lower speeds (~5mph or so) the car will even accelerate a bit, which can be a problem in tight parking situations. At higher speeds (e.g. on the freeway) releasing the throttle has no effect for a few seconds (ie it does not decelerate), which can be very surprising if you're responding to suddenly slowing traffic. The brakes can, of course, overpower the engine, but you do have to push harder to get the same braking effect as if you were not fighting against the engine. Releasing the throttle and shifting into neutral while driving causes the engine to rev quite high (3,000rpm) for the same 3-5 seconds before dropping to a steady idle, but it does allow you to brake normally. Shifting back into Drive while in motion but not touching the throttle causes the engine to decelerate the car normally. Touch the gas even briefly, though, and the engine will once again surge.
Oh, and turning the steering wheel from side to side, as you might do while parking, also causes the engine to surge, though not as much as it does when I touch the gas pedal. Also, I've disconnected the throttle and cruise control cables and worked the throttle plate by hand. Doing so causes the RPM to rise, as you expect, but it does not immediately return to idle when the throttle plate snaps shut. Instead, the RPMs stay around 12~1500 for 3-5 seconds before it drops to idle.
Over the years, I've replaced the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and other normal maintenance items. I used a meter to troubleshoot the IAC and TPS and used propane to look for vacuum leaks, but everything is within spec. There are recall notices related to unintended acceleration for these vehicles, but those are reportedly caused by interference between the engine cover and cruise control. I do my own maintenance and don't like engine covers, so I removed the cover from this car shortly after buying it; the engine cover cannot be causing this problem. I have disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the computer, but that has no effect. There are no trouble codes that show up on a OBD-II scanner, and the CEL is not illuminated. There are many internet reports of this problem, but thus far I've found none that indicate a solution.
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My Mazda MPV will stall at slow speeds, such as if I am turning a corner or slowing down at a stoplight. Sometimes it starts back up once I put it into park, but other times it takes a few minutes of trying/resting before it will start up. One day, I am afraid it won't start up at all again. I just got new spark plugs and recently got a new mass airflow thingy put in. Check engine light does not come on for this.
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I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
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I just had my stock clutch replaced with a South Bend Stage II, of the most recent generation.
It's making a weird noise, and sounds pretty bad... kinda like a rough TDI. It makes the sound when in gear, either accelerating or decelerating. There isn't any noise to speak of at idle.
The sound it makes is kinda like this: [URL]................................
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I just put a rebuilt 4r70w in my '97 expedition and it shifts good but in 4th gear when I let off of the accelerator it starts to shudder until it shifts to 3rd. It acts like it is freewheeling then catches on and off. My thoughts so far is that I don't have the digital transmission range sensor positioned right or the overdrive servo isn't working properly.
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Quick description: every part of any acceleration in any gear is completely normal. My only problem is when I decelerate downhill in 1st gear to a stop I get a whining sound up front that is choppy and sounds like it is coming from the center of the car, like transmission, ???
I am at 85k and replaced my transmission oil and rear diff. w. Amsoil 75w90 at 60k miles.
Some of the old posts question why I would be engine braking in 1st gear. It is because I have to "coast" out of a 6 floor parking garage. I never noticed the trouble at all because I am usually coasting in 2nd gear or neutral, but someone in front of me was extremely slow so I stopped and went to 1st gear then heard the noise. Like I mentioned, it only happens downhill (not under load).
Sound = "rum rum rum rum..." decreasing with speed as the car comes to a stop.
It's not a CV or wheel bearing because it only does it in 1st..
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My 2004 Golf GTI VR6 6-speed manual makes a louder than usual decelerating noise while in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. If I give it gas it doesn't make any noise but once I take my foot off the pedal it makes a louder than usual decelerating noise. It sounds almost as if something is maybe grinding but I'm not sure what it is. One mechanic said it may just need to be serviced (new transmission fluid). I've read some forums saying it may be the bearings or maybe need a new transmission. The car runs fine otherwise and there aren't any problems shifting up, it shifts really smooth. '
Its only when I downshift that I hear the noise. The noise is the same no matter if I'm turning or going straight and and it's in neutral, there ISN'T noise. It's only while in 4th, 3rd, or 2nd while decelerating. Even if this is a common problem with VW's how do I fix it?! The previous owner said it's been the same way since he's had it and it has NOT gotten worse and his mechanic said it was nothing detrimental to the car so he left it that way. The GTI has 130K miles on it and runs strong, that's the only problem it really has. I'm not sure when the transmission fluid was last changed so that could be a possibility. Going to possibly try that in a few days and see what happens.
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My 2005 GTI has been decelerating while I'm driving on a certain section of the freeway. It's a steady incline for about 1/2 a mile, the altitude changes (my ears tend to pop). The car starts to decelerate, I take my foot off the pedal for a couple of seconds and then press the accelerator and it's usually fine.
However, a couple of weeks ago it totally stalled out on the freeway, it restarted fine. I took it into the shop the next day, my mechanic is not 100% sure what the problem is, he replaced the crankshaft sensor. Turns out it's not the source of the problem, I am still decelerating on the freeway. I had a tune-up and new battery installed a month ago, so I don't know what the problem is.
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My 2005 Corolla LE makes a low moaning/groaning sound when I release the accelerator between 40-50 mph. This does not happen below or above the said speed range. I can hear it only when it is sufficiently quiet like in quiet mornings or on roads with low road noise. What could it be ? Do I need to fix it and how ?
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We've brought our 1999 Camry to our mechanic twice for a starting problem to no avail because it never happens while it's there. So cliche right? About half the time it has trouble starting and the rest of the time it starts and operates fine.
These troublesome starts: * typically idle very low then stall completely if you try to put it in gear * sometimes, but very rarely, stall immediately * sometimes giving it a tiny bit of gas seems to prevent stalling * eventually, after 1-2 minutes, the engine begins running normally (usually i just sit there and wait and can feel the obvious/sudden change from idling low to a normal idle
It just passed the CA smog test and the mechanic couldn't find any problem. What should I do?
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My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
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I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
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2004 excursion 6.0, head studs, 4inch straight pipe, egr delete, sct live wire ts running vivians looney wild, so I recently rebuilt the trans (5r110w) just soft parts rebuild frictions and steels, and it has about 5000 miles on it since, but I have ran into the issue of the engine stalling when it's cold when I put it in gear, any gear that is, but once it's warm it's fine, just checked the fluid and it was in the sweet spot, also on my tuner the command gear is going from 2nd, 4th, and 6th completely skipping 1st, 3rd, 5th, trans was shifting normal until about 100 miles ago and my tuner is telling me my icp is 600ish at warm idle and at wot only seeing 1500 psi maybe, any clue as to what this would be? Truck won't start with stock tune, guessing the looney wild is ramping up the icp and is seeing at least 500psi to start. I'm thinking it's possibly the hpop.
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I have a 99 f150 with 171xxx miles and the other day it suck in second gear and start shaking and misfiring and would stall out. I took the truck and got the codes read and it threw codes for the tcc solenoid and shift solenoid. I put both in the transmission and it kepy doing the same thing. I check fuse 24 under the hood and it was blown, I replaced it and everything worked fine for a day then it blew the fuse 2 more times and i cant figure out why it is blowing that fuse. I cant find any shorts maybe pcm??
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I have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
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I have been driving a 2013 Mazda 3 for a couple years, bought it new with only 9 miles on it. It has been slipping out of 3rd gear a couple times a week since I moved to a city 9 months ago. I cannot determine if it only happens when going up hill, if it happens at higher RPM vs. lower RPM, etc. It has 31k miles on it, and I just had it in to a shop for the 30k checkup and they say that everything looks great. I took the car to a Mazda dealer in town (not the one I bought it from, that's in a different city) and they can't get it to repeat the problem after driving it several times, so they are not inclined to dig any deeper like taking apart the transmissions to look at the inner workings. Should I just deal with the problem? Will it get worse? Should I take it to the original dealer?
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I have a motocrap 2bbl on my 73 f-100 all stock 390 when I drop it into gear she wants to sputter and stall without warning at idle runs great but put a load on and forget it what is wrong with this thing?
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I have a Honda Civic Hybrid 2005 that I drive fairly regularly. I keep up with all the maintenance never had a problem... That is until last year. In the heat wave of Northeast 2012, the car started stalling after long drives. It only happened in mid to late august when temperatures started reaching the 90's. In the fall and winter the problem went away. I took it to the dealer in around October and they could not reproduce at first then later came back to tell me that it was the IACV valve. It promptly went away for the entirety of the winter and has now returned in june. As far as I can tell it only happens in the heat when you are idle after driving. It appears that the RPM's go to low (400<) and the thing stalls... How did you fix it? Can I do it myself? Where the hell is this IACV maybe I can clean it out or something?
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