Mazda :: 2005 - Ticking Noise When Idling
May 18, 2015
My wife's 2005 Mazda 3 had a bit of a noise on cold start and our mechanic thought it was connected to an intake manifold flap malfunction. Now I notice it seems to have a constant ticking noise at idle. If one of the electrical connections near the intake manifold is disconnected the noise stops. Another forum suggested that connection goes to the solenoid valve. They think that valve may be stuck open and when the connection is taken away it closes and the noise stops. At least that is what I was able to extract from the discussion. Does that make sense? The solutions I saw recommended were to either replace the intake manifold or replace the solenoid valve or don't do anything because it's not harmful other than the motor may lose a little bit of power.
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My 2006 Mazda 3 (2.3 engine) has been producing some new "ticking/clacking" sounds. They seem to be coming from underneath the car (nope, no critters there), seem to last for only the first 1/4 mile, seem to let up after I apply the brakes a time or two. The also increase in frequency as the car speeds up, making me suspect something wheel-related.
Naturally, when I dropped it off at the garage, the techs could not replicate the sound. As I drove off the premises, it kicked up again, but by the time I went around the freakin' block to show the techs, the sound had stopped! I suspect the car is playing with me. It has 100600 miles on it...
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2004 Prius with 109,000 miles. It's been in an accident before (and you can tell, the front right fender is a bit misaligned and the doors have a paint covering abrasions).
However, the car is making a ticking noise every minutes or so. The sound is originating in the Hybrid Synergy Drive converter inverter box and about every minute for about 5 or 7 seconds or so there will be a ticking or clicking noise. This happens when the car is idling, driving, and even a minute or two after car was shut off. The mechanic next door to the dealer didn't know what it is and the dealer is giving me a 30 day. What could this clicking be?
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My R is starting to make some noise when idling in neutral. It's the stock clutch with 135k on it and its starting to sound like it's a single mass flywheel. Ya know kinda like cogs ticking/slapping more that normal. I've done some searching/researching to find something that sounds the same but nothing seems exact.
No hamster wheel squeaking. It's very subtle, can't hear it while standing outside the car but I can when I'm sitting in it. The clutch pedal feels the same too. I've also noticed that first and second gear make more noise than it normally has in the year I've owned it.
Is this just time to change the clutch and throw out bearing? I'm driving to Denver from Minneapolis next week. Should I park it for the trip?
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What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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My friend has a 1994 Mazda MX-6 and she tells me that it is making a chugging noise when she drives slow and it screeches when its idling. She must have had mentioned its her timing belt maybe but my brother things those don't slip really until they snap. What is wrong with this car?
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I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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I have a mazda 3 and i just tried to start it but its just making a clicking noise. The radio works so does that rule battery out....
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD and there is a loud ticking noise at idle. It seems to quite a little when put in gear.
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I have had this car for 4 years, and it's been driving, and handling very well overall. Lately, I started hearing a soft scratching noise when accelerating, and especially going from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd gear. There was some hesitation before shifting to the higher gear as well. I took the car to a local mechanic, and after test driving, and listening to the engine with a tube??? he told me that he needed to change the torque converter and the pump, and quoted me for $1936. My wife immediately wanted to sell the car and buy a new one. Half of my friends said the same thing (well, at least my richer friends did), and the others said to fix it and drive it while I could do so.
So, I took the car to another transmission specialist, and they told me that the transmission was in great condition, fluids, shifting, etc. Something doesn't add up here. I know that the engine/transmission doesn't sound the same as when I bought the car, but how is it possible to have that kind of diametrically opposite diagnosis. Meanwhile, I took the Mazda to a local dealership, and they quoted me for $4500 trade-in value, while CARMAX said they would give me $2500. Needless to say, I am at a crossroad - we know we have to change the car soon, but how soon and under what circumstances, this is the question. Then, just today, another mechanic said that the engine is unbalanced, and is giving a low, and powerful vibration, and the harmonic balancer needed to be changed.
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I have a 2005 mk4 Gli 1.8T with 69,000 miles. This ticking sound that I hear from the inside of my car is coming from the right side of the engine bay. It starts during idle. It starts ticking and gets a little faster and then stops for a few seconds then begins again. It fully stops while driving. I changed tensioner, belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and oil change with mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40.
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My girlfriend has an 05 ford escape with a 3.0 the car has been well maintained it has 184,000 miles on it. Over 3/4 of the miles were highway. I have noticed that it has had a slight engine ticking noise i have researched and some say the tensioner some say retorque the cams? I have not been around these cars much. I replaced the alternator the other day and serp belt all pullys felt fine. The engine used to tick all the time here lately sometimes when it gets started it does it and sometimes it doesn't.
Also what fluid is supposed to be ran in the tranny the owners manual just says mercon, so do i just run regular strait mercon fluid in it? or does it need like mercon V. The car runs fine i just want to fix the ticking noise if its something major. Just some thing I've hear about on a buddys newer f150 with a 5.4 the oil supply ports that lube the timing chain tensioner got plugged and it developed a ticking noise? I am a mechanic so i can check and do anything i just dont know where to start on this car?
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Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
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I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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2005, 2.7l. FWD automatic, with 180,000+ miles.
A week ago it started making a random ticking noise I've never heard before. Today was the first chance I got to try and find it and I'm stumped on what could cause this.
The sound is a static or low voltage electrical discharge coming off the harmonic balancer. I can actually see the blue spark occurring at random intervals and locations on the balancer as the car is running.
Do i need to be looking for a bad engine ground? I'm having no other electrical problems. The car runs like a champ other than a minor oil and power steering fluid leak.
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Year of vehicle: 2007
Make of vehicle: Mazda
Model of vehicle: 3i Touring
Mileage/Kilometers: 80,000+ Miles
My Mazda 3i has been acting up a bit lately, where the engine has been getting louder (particularly in 4th gear, though it's a pretty quiet car so I might not be able to tell in lower gears). This morning, there also was a faint ticking, 1/second or so that went away once the car warmed up.
Recent work that has been done to it: Brakes replaced, Oil changed, fluids topped off.
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When the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
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I recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
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About two weeks ago I noticed the engine idle start to hesitate but ONLY while idling. I was sort of leaning towards the distributor cap or rotor but that didn't add up because in the past when either of these would go out the car would just die without any warning whatsoever. So I just kept driving it and then tonight when I started the engine it was hesitating a lot more than it had been and also hesitating during acceleration but would smooth out after I would reach and maintain 40mph. The CEL also started flashing on and off. I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor with no improvement. Tomorrow I plan to replace the plug wires. The code it's sending is P0302 (misfire cylinder 2). If the plug wire doesn't do the trick and I can't find any leaks on the intake I'm going to try to figure out how to inspect the ignition coil (well, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out since I have two different shop manuals for this car.)
Another possibility for P0302 is low engine compression but I seriously doubt that's the problem because last time I checked the compression all 4 cylinders had above average compression. I doubt the plug wire is going to fix it since the wires only have about 20k miles on them and I don't think I have any leaks on the intake so where else I should look? Oh yeah, just remembered. I also put a stethoscope (actually a screwdriver) against the fuel injector for cylinder number 2 and it was clicking away just like the other 3 injectors so I guess the injector isn't the problem unless it can be faulty and still make the clicking noise. So should I check the injector with a meter or is the clicking enough evidence that it's working fine?
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Mazda CX-7 sport that has rough idling when it is started and goes away when warmed up or driven. Is giving OBDII error code P0300 - multiple misfires. Where should I start looking?
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