Mazda :: 2004 - Remote Key Is Malfunctioning / Won't Connect With Computer
Aug 22, 2013
I have a 2004 Mazda 3s with 210k miles. Both the remote key's just stopped working. The dealership tried replaced batteries and tried reprogramming the key's but said that the computer is not accepting the keys (these are original keys). They suggested replacing the computer but in my opinion the car is not worth that much ...
I tested the remotes at autozone and they seem to transmit rf signals. The door locks or control modules work fine - the problem appears to be the remotes or the communication between ecu & remotes.
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1996 Mazda Protégé, 128,821 miles, in town driving 5000 miles per year in recent years.
I hit the frame of my garage door about 6 months or more ago which partially pulled off the front bumper area and knocked the right turn signal lens and headlight out of whack. My handyman fixed it up, by using good quality baling wire so the turn signal and headlight etc worked.
Then, I did the same thing a couple of weeks ago. (I was trying to avoid hitting my bicycle which I had just had reconditioned for an ungodly amount of money) My handyman is unavailable to fix it again. I have gotten stopped once by the police for the malfunctioning turn signal so it was time to get it fixed.
Mechanic (same one as previous posts) said it will cost 1500 to replace the bumper area etc so the front turn signals will work. He absolutely insisted that the turn signal wires cannot be reconnected. He reattached the bumper area "temporarily". I am willing to pay to get the turn signals functioning but do I need to replace the whole bumper assembly unit?
Does this seem plausible?? I just want the turn signals to work. I do not care about how it looks. (I drove the car in the interim with a bright yellow bungie cord holding the unit together)
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Driving home tonight...noticed SOC was PINK...2 to 1 bars. First thought was the HV FAN...!
I JUST did the HV fan maintenance the other day and I'm certain I buttoned everything back up correctly..... There are only 2 connections to the fan that I unhooked and then rehooked back up...... I'll re-open tomorrow to check for loose connections.
Is this symptomatic of the fan not working? and Is there any way I can test the fan?
I've driven the car for about 200 miles in the 4 days since the maintenance but I rarely keep eye on SOC so I'm not certain what it's been reporting thru that period...Just looked tonight for some reason. Maintenance light has been on for awhile before I performed this ....but I'm guessing that's just Oil change needing to be done.
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the problem is, i was listening to music in my prius 05 setting the equalizer. After i got my work done, i pulled the key and closed the door. when i was pressing the lock button in my remote key, it wasnt working. Then i went inside my car and even the locks and other things werent working.. nothing was working eventually.
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Well, I am approaching 80k miles and the ride in my 04 GX470 had gotten very bouncy. So I had a mechanic friend run a diagnostic check and the right rear sensor was malfunctioning. My friend recommended to replace both rear sensors but my wife is "frugal" so we only replaced the malfunctioning unit. Well a month or two later we are back to the bumpy ride. I haven't had my friend check it out yet but I'm guessing either the other sensor or both are malfunctioning now. Now I don't want to get into a fix part "a" of suspension and part "b" malfunctions soon after.
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I'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
[URL] .....
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2006 Prius, 114K miles. In the last week started getting the intermittent warning of "There is a problem with the parking transmission lock. Place the car on a flat surface and fully set the parking brake." Car would not start, would only go into neutral. All accessories work fine, seems to be plenty of 12V power. Did a lot of research and determined that the most likely cause was a failing 12V battery. Used the diagnostic mode to check voltages, had 12.1 at "READY", 11.6 under auxiliary loads, and 14.1 with engine on (I did get the car to start eventually but can't figure out how and under what set of circumstances it would start).
So I ordered a 12V battery and replaced it. After replacing, I still had the Hybrid warning light, but after stopping and starting the car 3 times it went away. Car worked fine for a day but now the intermittent warning has returned. With the warning on, the parking lock seems to be fully engaged (car won't roll even on a slope).
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We've got a 2005 with 110K miles on it and recently the Combo Meter malf'd -- in the space of a couple days, the car didn't want to shut off twice, and once at start-up the instrument panel didn't light up. Since then it has run just fine. Took it to the dealer and they want to replace the combo meter. We never got the "Warranty Enhancement" notice (which has, of course, expired).
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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I have a Sprint HTC Hero. It worked fine on my Prius. I upgraded the phone from Android 1.5 to 2.1. I thought all was OK because the phone would connect to the car. The problem is that when I make a call or someone calls me everything looks OK until someone talks. Nothing. No voices. I can't hear the other person and they can't hear me.
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I have been having sporadic issues with the button/system of my drivers side window. It is an '06 XLT SCrew. The window always reponds when I am lowering, but there are times when I hit the button and it won't come up. I wiggle the armrest, or fiddle with the button and it will eventually work. I haven't been to a dealer yet, but I know this will totally fail at the most inconvenient moment. The other three windows work great.
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I replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
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I just got a 2009 RX 350 , and I noticed that driving home with full tank of gas that my range was only reading about 250 miles. This week end I filled the tank up and the range was only reading 253 miles, after driving about 130 miles the computer is showing a range of 208 miles, The tank is showing about 3/4 full. I am showing a average of 24 miles per gallon.
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My wifes 04 v6 touareg make noises now like either a computer crunching files or an electrical fire is about to happen?? the weird thing is when i turn off the display on the dash thru the menu it stops making the noise ?? its not loud enough to hear with the stereo on but it is when its off. the sound itself seems to be coming from the center of the display area over the steering wheel.
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I just bought my excursion, an 04 and the trip computer is not working, its dead, when the truck lights are on, the two buttons above light up, but thats it, its as if it has no power, I cant find a fuse for it directly?
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My Lincoln LS 2004 V6 3.0 has check engine light flash. It says the Engine Cylinder 1 and 2 misfired with computer scan. I know the cylinder 1 is in the front of passenger side, but I do not know where the cylinder 2 is. If it is in the rear of cylinder 1 on passenger side, and I want to change the cylinder 2 ignition coin pad, do I need to remove the engine part on top it?
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My 2004 Ford Freestar SEL (the 4.2L version, 123,000 miles) is missing. The computer code is P0302 which, from what I can find, indicates a misfire in cylinder 2. I had this same code at 99,000 miles and ended up having the spark plugs and wires replaced around 100K miles. It was all running fine until about a month ago and started misfiring again, badly. I thought it was related to the rain but it is doing it all the time now. At times it gets so bad, I have no power and the computer disengages my A/C (bad at this time of the year). I tried a running a fuel system cleaner that specifically mentioned cleaning the injectors, hoping the problem was simply a clogged injector, to no avail (I know I probably wasted my $10 here). I have a couple of questions:
1. Am I doing damage to the engine or transmission by continuing to drive it? I really don't have a choice but need to know how urgent it is.
2. Does this thing have a traditional distributor cap & rotor or is there an electronic ignition module the plug wires connect to?
3. Where would I find the illusive distributor or ignition module, in theory?
4. Any other theories as to the cause of the misfire (cheapest first)?
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Pulling out of the driveway my 2004 Passat's computer told me there's an issue with the coolant and that I should STOP, so I pulled back in. My VW dealer has this coolant in stock (G12, red) but considering it is 7 degrees outside (or minus 14 C) I wonder whether I can't ignore the warning and drive the 2 miles rather than get on my bicycle.
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I have a p0300 code coming up on the comp. The motor runs fine until it gets wet. rain/carwash. I have tried to spray each coil with water and could not get it to misfire. Then I brought out the water hose and sprayed it top of the motor this found the misfire. This thing has 8 coils and I really don't want to replace them all. My Question is there some thing else that could be causing the misfires.
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I have a 2008 prius and had to change my drivers side airbag recently. Before it was changed, it started just fine, but now after it was changed and the airbag computer was reset the car doesn't start. It does shift from park to neutral, but not into drive, reverse or B position.
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I have a 2007 Prius and it will be my first car once I get my license. It has a bad traction control computer and is stuck in limp mode. I have a neighbor who has worked on these and will show me how to replace it. Right now I have two questions. I keep coming up with how to disable it not the actual part.
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