Mazda :: 2004 - Rattling When Cold But Stopped After Warmup - Too Low Oil
Apr 16, 2013
My 2004 6"i" started rattling when cold but stopped after warmup, so I didn't think much of it for a few K's of miles until I took it in for an oil change. The mechanic stated that the oil filer "shroud" had cracked, it began leaking and there was less than a half quart in the car, although the "check oil light" did not come on. Upon fill-up, the rattling stopped but the mechanic also stated that there was no way to know if the engine had been damaged. This has been a great car with only 75K miles on it; half my friends say "keep driving and don't worry about" and the other says "SELL!" before the next noise I hear which might mean the engine's shot.
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Having issues on cold morning starts where the car is shaking/trembling at warmup idle? Obviously this problem isnt as prominent at this time of year...
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I own a 2013 ES 350 with 5000 miles.
On cold weather conditions, doing a cold start, I allow the engine to run and warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes before driving. In this time frame the engine goes thru the whining sound and then the engine noise is quiet (normal).
What do other owners allow for engine warm up time before driving.
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2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L
What's a good way to find whats the cause of all the rattling and knocking in the front end of my car when going over uneven terrain? It seems that noise appears only if one of the wheels is lifted up a little bit. I am attaching a picture describing the "motion" here:
Steering wheel doesn't shake when driving at high speeds and is fairly stiff, but it does pull to the right a bit, maybe because I didn't perform a front end alignment (I know this is not good) after I had most of the stuff in the suspension of the replaced; all 4 struts + boots + mounting blocks, ball joints, control arms...
Now the only part, I didn't replace was the sway bar link on the passenger side and it's being knocking for 3 years. The one on the driver side was replaced at the time the struts were replaced but I didn't have enough money to pay for the other one.
Another mechanic told me when I was quoting that sway bar links aren't really necessary as a safety feature, and a google search showed me that there are people that just take the sway bar off the car, so I left it there and just tried to live with the noise. now I am noticing the driver side is knocking as well, and I am wondering if it has to do with because I didn't replace the one in the passenger side?
I just want to rule out the possibility of another component being the cause of the noise because I am prioritizing safety over ride comfort in my attempts to save some money.
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My wife and I are on a 2400 mile cross country road trip road trip and we just got a check engine light about 12 hours away from home. The check engine light, VSC, and tons of other lights appeared. Shortly after our cruise control disengaged and then A/C stopped blowing cold air. We were cruising along in 100F degree weather at about 75-80mph climbing a 10-mile incline with the AC on full blast.
We got to a Toyota dealership but they are closed until Monday so we'd have to wait 2 days for them to check it out. We went to pep boys and they found the code to be "Drive Motor B" which they said should be fixed by Toyota dealership (but he said he didn't really know what the issue is).
I did a quick search and found this might be the inverter coolant pump. Like another poster, I found the car seems to work okay when the AC is off.
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I drive a 2002 Mazda Protege and it's been great to me until this past weekend. I had a 4.5-5 hour trip ahead of me and Google Maps told me a more direct route (i.e. not using the interstates) would save time. It must have erroneously assumed that the highway comprising basically the entire trip would be speed limit 55-65 the entire way. Instead, I found myself slowing down to stoplights and stop signs in small villages between 15-minute sprints. At some point, the interior heat stops - the air being pulled in from outside is not being warmed at all, no matter what settings I fiddle with. Not long thereafter I notice a rattling noise behind the dash. From inside the car it sounds almost like an animal skittering around in the chassis - irregular, short and clipped. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, it sounds like a piece of plastic fluttering in the wind, but with a faint electric "crackling" quality. Soon thereafter the check-engine light illuminates.
Before long the engine overheats and I pull over to the side of the road. Nothing appears to be leaking, and the crackling sound is the only thing noticable. Being in the middle of nowhere, I jumped back in and proceeded to drive at about 35-40, which was warm on the engine but enough to get me to a small town. At this point I checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Bought some from Wal-mart, poured it in, and headed out. Things looked fine at first since the engine had sat cold while I was running errands, but pretty soon it was overheating again at speeds as low as 30mph. After getting it towed to my destination, I took it to a garage the next morning. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, and indeed when I drove it back to the hotel that morning the engine behaved normally, the check-engine light was off, and the interior heating was functioning properly.
The next morning, when it was time to depart (but again after an entire night of sitting in the cold), a 20 minute drive to breakfast was smooth as before. Thinking that the mechanic had either waved a magic wand or I'd gotten extremely lucky, I hit the highway and did 65 for a good 20 minutes until the engine began to overheat again. Slowing down to 45 bought a few more minutes to find an exit, but eventually I had to pull over. Popping the hood, I notice the coolant in the reservoir is bubbling to the top! Thinking the mechanic might have added more and overfilled it, I cursed him in absentia. After a good fifteen minutes of cooling off, the coolant settled and in fact drained the reservoir entirely; I refilled it to the line and, again being in rural snowtopia with few options, decided to hit the road again. Not wanting to tempt fate, I stuck to 55mph and the car ran fine for an hour and a half (with the interior heat blasting, per a friend's advice). I stopped once to check the coolant and all was as it should have been - just below the line I'd filled it to earlier. Closer to a city, I decided to experiment again and took the speed up to 60mph.
This was great for 20-30 minutes but eventually the engine began overheating ever-so-slowly and I had to pull over, let it cool off, and replace another full reservoir's worth of coolant that had disappeared before I kept going. I drove the rest of the way home going no faster than 55mph and stopping on occasion to check the coolant. It overheated once even while doing 55mph, but a 15 minute break + coolant refill bought it the rest of the trip. In summary: Although not 100% correlated, going faster than 55mph seems to trigger the engine overheating, at which point the rattling noise appears and the coolant begins to bubble its way back up the reservoir (like it's boiling?!). I'm not sure how the coolant is disappearing because I'm unable to find any leak, nor is there any extra exhaust that would suggest it's burning.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and heard a rattling sound in the engine ONLY when the car is in drive or reverse, never when in Park. My mechanic said it is the clutch in the alternator that is coming apart and so the Alternator - tensioner - belt all needs to be replaced for a total of almost $800. Does this seem reasonable?
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For the past week, my wife's 2004 GX A/C has been blowing hot air off and on. At first I thought this was due to low refrigerant but after pressure testing it appears to be full. Yesterday afternoon I was driving the car home and the A/C was blowing cool air then suddenly stopped again, I happened to look at the engine temperature gauge and noticed it creeping to "H". I shut down the air all together, pulled over and it cooled. The gauge actually stayed below the half way point the rest of the way home, until I had to stop at a light, then it slowly climbed up to the "H" again, the lowered as I drove to a cruising speed 55MPH. One home, I looked at the coolant reservoir and there was no fluid in it (not sure if this is normal) and there was no sign of smoke or fluid leaking. Could this be a thermostat issue, radiator issue, loss coolant issue???
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I just got this 2007 Mazda6 S Sport Value Edition for free from a family member. It has an automatic transmission.
While driving it in a parking lot I noticed that the car was make some kind of a rattling noise whenever I start accelerating slowly from around 1000ish rpms. After that the noise disappears. The first time hearing something like this was in a Prius I rented, though I don't think this affects performance at all. I am wondering if this is normal?
Also the car has being sitting unused for about a couple of months before I picked it up. I noticed immediately a burning smell after driving it, somewhere under the driver side, which makes me suspect if it has something to do with the transmission. I know very little about fixing cars of course but I also own a manual transmission car, and this smell kinda reminds me of a burning clutch.
The car drives great. The transmission seems to work fine. No slipping. Driving around those hills in San Francisco just fine.
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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1996 Camaro RS, 170k miles, 3.8 liter, 5spd. Car has been fully functional. 10k miles ago, I changed fuel pump, filter plugs and wires with high quality parts. Recently got EGR code and also started to act up when driving. Took it to my trusted, long time, certified mechanic. He saw code and changed EGR. Ran good for short, cold, test drive and no codes. When I got it and drove away, it went back to bad. No power with throttling, but great idle. Puts out the classical "bog" sounds and stutters/sputters/surges.
I can only get about 35 mph out of my White Mullet once it's warm. All sensors and pressures checked good on live data viewer. I then changed coils and ignition controller. Didn't fix it. I blanked off EGR ports, didn't fix it. The car cooled off and I restarted. It ran fine for a few minutes, until I suspect it went from open loop to closed loop fuel/air control. I now guess it's the O2's or MAP, but they didn't code out, and presumably gave a reading at the shop. Could the O2's be way off base once the engine warms up and drive the fuel ratio way lean?
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Golf R, 3000 miles. Seems like the engine sounds coarse or rough between 2-3k rpm for the first 5 minutes or so of operation. Smooths out after it is up to temp. Does not run rough, it's just an audible thing. Relatively insensitive to outside ambient temperature (winter/summer). One oil change with Motul Specific, Soundaktor still in place. Is this typical or am I the only one?
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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Cruise control and right/left brake lights have stopped working. Upper brake light still works.
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This issue with my 2003 Mazda Protege 5, manual transmission, has been going on for years. I'd like to sell the car, so I'd like to fix it.
On occasion I am unable to shift into first gear from a stopped position. This never happens in the late fall, winter, or early spring - it all seems to depend on how warm it is outside. It is always fine at the start of the trip, but becomes a problem in what seems like a period of time proportional to how warm it is outside. Again, when its cool outside, it pretty much doesn't happen. But once we pass 25C / 77F it is common, and will almost certainly happen on any trip of over a 10 minutes. The hotter the weather, the faster it shows up as a problem.
If I leave the car and come back after it cools down, first gear works fine again. And I can downshift into first gear as I come to a stop with no issues - I just hate riding the clutch like that, so I've been starting in second gear instead.
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This just started today while driving home from work, not quite sure how to describe the sound, kinda like a mini jack hammer or rocks in a tumbler (attached video with sound). The weird part is: My car runs well aside from the sound, and the sound goes away when actually driving, only occurs when in park, or stopped. [URL]... (under hood) [URL] ..... (under car)
Opened the hood and jacked up the car to try and find the cause of the noise, sounded like it was coming from the engine, or just underneath (there is a box on the underside, not quite sure what it is, but the sound seems to be louder near there).
On a side note, checked my oil, it's not low. And tried playing around with the pipe leading to the exhaust to see if it was lose - nothing.
Was involved in a hit and run just over 2 weeks ago (front left headlight was smashed, and fender was dented). I'm not sure if that has anything to do with whats happening now.
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When i step on the gas there's a rattling noise in the engine like it's starving for gas but when i put super unleaded in it goes away.
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it was over 100 degrees today in Lawrence, Kansas and on the way home from work, the air conditioner stopped making cool air. Hot air now comes out. This is a different problem that the poster before me seems to have. Mazda Protégé, 1996, 128,000 plus miles on it.
A reconditioned one was installed in 2006, compressor replaced in July, 2012.
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Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX 1.5 L 4 Cylinder and i have been having some starting issues, and stalling at stop lights.
To be clear i have replaced/cleaned, Injectors, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap, Distributor Coil, Air Filter, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned the EGR Valve,
My car won't start in the morning, just gives cranks but if I press gas pedal it starts and have to keep it until engine gets hot enough. then it works till the car cools down again, and repeat the problem in the morning when I have to go to work. When the car is warm it starts fine but has idle issues regardless of temperature. As usual when the engine is cold or cool, it won't start.
Visited 2 different mechanic shops and the problem still exist, I don't know how and what they did it, it only worked for couple of months and the engine noise was bit high, I believe he just increased the idle, When i am at stop lights it has a rough idle and tries to die, When it idles it idles rough, Every once in a while I get a CEL Cylinder Misfire on cylinder 4. I'm confused on want to do , Don't know what else to do and its getting tiring, The car also feels like a lack of power.
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I have a 2003 Mazda6, 108K miles. Had the ATF changed last December at the dealer. Prior to this, there was some hesitancy to shift into 1st when cold. Last several months, it has gotten worse. Engine revs (as much as I allow it, which ain't much) and then goes into first. Dealer thought they had overfilled the ATF, and reflushed and refilled. Said they couldn't find any other problems. There is no CEL. Problem was better for a short while after fluid change, but now back to long hesitation. Car goes into Reverse fine when cold. Once the car is warm, I don't notice the hesitancy to shift to first. How to diagnose?
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