2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
View 3 RepliesMazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
Our 2008 Mazda CX 9 has been making a grinding sound and also the ABS light comes on when we make a right turn on a slight decline after having come to a stop. We have reported to Mazda multiple times but they always say they can't replicate the problem and can't find anything. I am concerned that something in the car is becoming more and more damaged because there is no way something grinding like that can be good for the car and I am frustrated that it's never been diagnosed especially now that it's out of warranty although I established a record of the issue long before the warranty period expired.
View 5 RepliesThe car is at rest, engine on, when I turn the wheel (either sides), there is this popping sounds, coming out from the front suspension. It almost sounds like the Titanic moments before it fell apart... It also happens when I drive slow, like parking or backing out...etc. Doesn't happen at >10mph.
So I had my friend turned the wheel and I inspect it. I can feel the spring or something popping on the strut mount of the front wheels. SEE PICTURE.
I also uploaded a video with sound. I have sufficient tools to remove the struts and springs.
2009 LE
Video : [URL] ......
I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
A sort of honking/grinding noise, like really loud squealing brakes - but a lower sound, when at low speed, with the wheel turned right for maximum turning. Generally located in the front end.
It occurs consistently when I am returning home, slowing to a stop to pull around a curve in the road, right before I back into my driveway. It occurs with the clutch in or out, and with the brakes on or not. I tried doing slow sharp turns in a parking lot and I can't replicate it there.
It's happened for almost as long as I've had the car, and there's only about 1300km on it now. I've just been trying to track it down to replicate for the dealer. Taking it to the dealer is obviously my next step. I think I'm going to have to take a tech for a ride to my house to replicate it!
Car is completely stock so far.
I own a 2009 VW tiguan 2TSI 4WD. Lately i am experiencing undercarriage low tone grinding noise as i made turns at slow speed. i am not sure if the noise is coming from the rear or front. Why and what should i do about it.
View 3 Repliesi have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
View 5 RepliesSo yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
2005 f150 super cab, 5.4 liter, 4x4 107k miles. I have a 12 bolt rear differential and the tag on the door has an axle code of "B6". No noise under power or braking but if your driving along flat road and not much power is needed to keep the truck moving then there is a hum almost sounds like faint grinding but not quite. The differential housing gets hot to touch after a 30 mile drive down the interstate.
My brother was the previous owner and this has made the noise for years so it's not critical but annoying. I removed the dif. cover to change the oil. All the teeth are smooth, no rough or grinding surfaces. No play at the wheel end so I don't believe its a bad bearing. Oil was used but not burnt up or sludgy and very few metal flakes at bottom of housing. Thought it looked good for the age. Also, both wheels off ground and truck in neutral. There seems to be a lot of resistance while turning the wheel. I don't think the brakes are dragging but will eliminate that possibility this weekend.
What rear axle I have. Why its making the noise? How to repair it? Is this a posi diff?
I just bought a used '05 F-150 and recently I noticed more a shaking I guess you'd call it. When I start from 0 to 80 nothing seems wrong, but when I slow down to coasting like 40 - 45mph and accelerate to 50 - 55 mph it shakes or acts like its having a hard time shifting or its skipping. And it doesn't happen till after I go past 40-55mph range and I've tried it in overdrive and out of it.
View 3 Replies[URL] ....
2004 Honda Accord LX
Engine: 2.4 L
119,400-ish miles
See above video link.
I've been having this odd sound occur while I accelerate - sort of like a grinding sound (about 7 seconds into the video). It might be a bit difficult to hear over the other sound coming from my car... It occurs a lot more frequently when it's cold, when I'm accelerating, and when I am turning while I accelerate.
Also, the more obvious noise that occurs throughout the entirety of the video just began today. It does not occur while I'm stopped and it began when I stepped on the brake a little harder than usual...
I may be worrying over nothing but lately when I brake or accelerate I hear a grinding noise on my radio. I listen to AM. With my other vehicle it usually meant there was a problem somewhere.
View 1 RepliesAfter one hour of freeway speed (60-80) the car slows down to a stop and red !triangle! light comes on. After coasting to the shoulder and waiting 10 minutes, car restarts. This has happened 3 times in the last two months (very frightening, but luckily it was light traffic). Dealer says 'no codes' and that there is nothing to fix!!!! What now? I can't drive a car that could lose power at any moment. Big safety issue....
View 6 RepliesProblem is noise that you can describe as clunk, not any harsh or sharp sound. It appears on road bumps or unevenness during slow speed up to about 40kph/25mph. The noise has not been heard over that speed even in bad bumpy roads.
List of thing I've done so far:
- Driven with empty rear compartments
- Driven with open rear door
- Checked the tightness of spare tyre
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar linkages
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar bushings
- Replaced rear axle carrier knuckle bushings
Could it be possible not coming from rear? Should I sit in the cargo space while somebody else driving, any success with this? What to do next?
My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
Bought my Prius (2005, with 160K miles) about a month ago and since I've had it I am hearing a metal on metal grinding noise when braking at low speed. How loud the sound is depends on how hard I am on pushing on the brakes. One of my co-workers has the same model and said that his does not make that sound. Not sure if its just because it has after-market brake pads or something? This noise only occurs when braking at low speeds (below 10 MPH) so I assume its an issue with the front brakes.
Is this something I need to get looked at by the dealership? I had a local mechanic that worked on my old Honda beater take a look and he said that the rotors and brake pads looked new and wasn't sure why they'd make noise.
I would like to post this performance issue on my 2003 GX470_79Kmiles which happened on the freeway yesterday. The sequence:
1) During start and at idle/stationary, the rpm shoot to 1100rpm and stayed there for a while, i would think that it was normal since the engine was still cold.
2) Drove to the freeway, I noticed that speed is very slow to pick up. My normal driving experience was that at close/equal to 2000rpm, the speed usually at around 70-75mph. But there was a considerable reduction of speed at around 60mph at almost more than 2000rpm, plus a buzzing engine noise. I tried to really rev-up the engine but very sluggish to pick up the speed not even close to 70mph.
3) Drove the car to lexus shop this morning, top speed of 60 to 65mph and tried to rev it up to plus 2000rpm to pick up speed, but the engine noise is very abnormal.
I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
About a month ago my 2006 Mazda3 (35,000 mi) started making loud creaking sounds everytime I turned and went over a bump. I took it into two mechanic shops and they both said the struts in the front were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced, in addition to the mounts and the swaybar link. I had all of this done, but when I got my car back it was making a new, very loud, clunking sound that I could also feel on one side when I drove over bumps. The sound was similar to the noise your car makes when the undercarriage hits the ground over a bump. I immediately took it back in, and the mechanic told me that the set of struts he had installed were "bad" and that he would put in new ones. This was done this weekend, but now my car is making the original creaking and groaning sound it did before, except much more audibly now. My car groans and creaks even if I turn the wheel while motionless.
I've heard that cars need time to "settle" into new struts. Does my car just need time to adjust?