We have a 2003 Mazda Protege5 and when you put it in gear the code P0758 (shift solenoid B electric) pops up. The circuit has been diagnosed everywhere, solenoids replaced, and even replaced the computer. We cannot get rid of this code, which causes the car to drive in limp mode. We've spoken to so many people with Mazdas and can't seem to come up with a solution.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed. Whenever I'm driving in higher gear (4th or 5th), the tachometer seems to jump. For instance, if I'm driving at 50mph at 3,000rpm in 5th gear and I want to accelerate to ~65mph, the tachometer seems to jump to 3,5000-4,000rpm, then drop down to 3,000rpm and then slowly increase as I accelerate.
What's the reason for this random jumping/revving? I don't think the clutch is going bad or slipping. It only seems to happen in higher gears, even without me shifting--only when I want to accelerate.
This issue with my 2003 Mazda Protege 5, manual transmission, has been going on for years. I'd like to sell the car, so I'd like to fix it.
On occasion I am unable to shift into first gear from a stopped position. This never happens in the late fall, winter, or early spring - it all seems to depend on how warm it is outside. It is always fine at the start of the trip, but becomes a problem in what seems like a period of time proportional to how warm it is outside. Again, when its cool outside, it pretty much doesn't happen. But once we pass 25C / 77F it is common, and will almost certainly happen on any trip of over a 10 minutes. The hotter the weather, the faster it shows up as a problem.
If I leave the car and come back after it cools down, first gear works fine again. And I can downshift into first gear as I come to a stop with no issues - I just hate riding the clutch like that, so I've been starting in second gear instead.
I have a 02 Trailblazer that on Monday it gave me a code of P0300 (Random misfire), then two days later P0301 (Number one misfire); (I replaced plugs, boots and cam sensor) ran fine for 1 day now its a P0758 code (Shift solenoid B Electrical).
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
My friend has just brought a truck and has lost 3-4 gear in the auto trans. We have the PO782 code coming up. Is there something in particular we should look at first.
View 2 RepliesI have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
View 2 RepliesI have been driving a 2013 Mazda 3 for a couple years, bought it new with only 9 miles on it. It has been slipping out of 3rd gear a couple times a week since I moved to a city 9 months ago. I cannot determine if it only happens when going up hill, if it happens at higher RPM vs. lower RPM, etc. It has 31k miles on it, and I just had it in to a shop for the 30k checkup and they say that everything looks great. I took the car to a Mazda dealer in town (not the one I bought it from, that's in a different city) and they can't get it to repeat the problem after driving it several times, so they are not inclined to dig any deeper like taking apart the transmissions to look at the inner workings. Should I just deal with the problem? Will it get worse? Should I take it to the original dealer?
View 2 RepliesWas doing some errands this morning and on the way home the transmission shifted a little strangely into 2nd. I had to let off the throttle for it to shift.
Fluid levels are correct and not burnt with no residue floating with a pinkish red color. Using Schaeffer's All-Trans Supreme.
I have read all of the threads related to the P0732 and the mechanical diode issue. Does the e99 4R100 have the mechanical diode? If not, what else could it be?
I also have the P0500 VSS sensor circuit fault which an old Ford mechanic stated could be related to a bad fuel sending unit which is definitely bad on this truck.
Am planning to go out and clean the sensor on the differential. Speedometer is working properly. I have also noticed what appeared to be a small slip when in reverse a couple of times that I initially attributed to tire spin. Is any of this related? Should I be prepared to rebuild/replace the transmission?
I have a 1999 Mazda 626. Lately, it seems to shift into 2nd gear much too late - ~5000 rpm - regardless of acceleration. Is there a good place to start diagnosing this problem? I've heard everything from new tranny to neutral safety switch.
View 6 RepliesI drive an '05 Mazda 3, manual transmission. About a month ago, I accidentally killed the battery completely by leaving the trunk slightly open for a couple days. After getting a new battery, my car idles very noisily, making rattling noises, and constantly feels like it's almost stalling when driving slowly or decelerating. It only stalled entirely once, in a parking lot. My friend thought this was due to the ECU crashing and trying to figure things out, so we put the car through an ECU reset procedure, but nothing changed.
View 2 Replieswe have an 2006 Mazada 6 automatic transmission with the option of manually shifting gears. we have had it a year and the only maintenance is work on the air conditioner, oil changes, and new tires. when accelerating on an incline or sometimes during/after a curve as it shifts into 4th gear it makes a terrible noise and the whole car jerks. the best way I know to describe it is it feels as if the bottom of the car is about to fall out! when we first purchased it, it done this a couple times and basically quit doing it for a few months.
It seems to be getting worse though. we have never had a check engine light. we sent a can of "sea foam" through the gas tank and this seemed to work. a local mechanic examined it and test drove it but couldn’t find anything wrong with it. (of course it didn’t act like this when he drove it!) I called mazda dealership and they cant tell us anything without us bringing it in and charging us no telling how much just to look at it. no one seems to be able to figure this out….
I have sel code of P0421. What are the odds of the downstream sensor being bad vs a bad catalyst converter? The car runs great and I get 19+ mpg in town driving. It is a 2001 Mazda Protege, 2.0L V4 .....
View 15 RepliesShifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 and recently it will make a grinding noise at 3,200 rpm (in every gear). It sounds like you touched the side of a rotating drill on a piece of metal or something like that. The mechanic said it was my clutch but my clutch isn't showing any of the tail tail signs of it needing to be replaced and frankly I don't trust the guy. Will replacing the clutch fix this noise? Could it be something completely unrelated to my clutch?
View 2 RepliesThe gear selector on my 2005 Mazda 3 with automatic transmission is difficult to move between P, R, N, and D positions. It does not "click" or fall into position like it used to. It has gradually gotten worse. When the car is in Park, it seems to not want to go all the way up into the Park slot. Even though the car actually parked, the P will not light up on the dashboard, which sometimes causes the car not to start when the key is turned. So sometimes I have to put it in Neutral to start.
Now the problem is that when it is in Drive, it will "fall out of gear". I put that in quotes because it is still in drive, but it was shift up to a higher gear if i don't physically pull the gear selector knob back. For example, if i'm driving and the car is in 4th gear going 60mph, and the shifter know slides up an eight of an inch, the D light will go off and the car will move into a higher gear (not sure which one, feels like 2nd or 3rd) and the engine will rev up. It doesn't feel like neutral.
Is there anything I can do myself? I plan on trading in the car in the next couple months, but I'd prefer to not have to get it worked on until then.
I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 104k on it. The clutch started sticking a couple weeks ago right where it would engage into gear, and I'd have to use my foot to pop it back up. It only happened here and there until finally, it stuck to the floor and became very difficult, if not impossible, to get out of gear. So everywhere I looked, it seemed that the slave cylinder was the culprit. I got a new one at AutoZone, replaced it yesterday, and the car ran great last night and this morning.
Then, this afternoon, in one 10 mile trip, it went back to the original problem. Stuck with every gear change, then stuck to the floor after I pushed it in and darn near wouldn't come out of gear. What in the world could be the problem?
B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
View 1 RepliesMy wife is out of town and while she parked her 1997 Mazda B Series pick up truck this morning she stated that her truck continued to roll while parked on a very slight incline. The vehicle was in gear so she put the emergency brake on. Could the clutch be slipping although she said it seemed to be shifting fine. She has to drive back 3 hours over the rolling hills of Nevada and is very concerned that something else could be wrong. What could I have her check besides the clutch fluid?
View 5 RepliesHave a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
View 1 RepliesTook my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
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