Reman engine (8plug, 4cylinder) loses a quart of coolant each week. Dealer who installed the engine replaced radiator, fan+clutch also. They can't find a leak and neither can I. Gauge reads cold, but it did that before the old motor blew out. Where the heck is coolant going to?! I don't want to blow out the motor, what is the cause?
View 2 RepliesI'm pretty new but we have an '02 Passat (68K miles) that has been pretty trouble free until lately. I'm losing about a 1/2 quart of coolant every week to 10 days; just enough for the coolant light to come on. The car never overheats and the oil looks clean (not milky). But I can't find the leak . I do see some dirt and grime build up on the front of the engine as well at the rear of the engine near the tranny, but nothing definite..
View 19 RepliesI have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
View 6 RepliesI've had my R32 for a year, in that time the car has used a quart of coolant in 9K miles. Is this normal? No visible leaks.
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 has had a slow coolant leak for quite a while (maybe a quart a month). Now, however, I am losing over a gallon a week, but with NO visible leak!
The oil is clear, with no signs of antifreeze in it, so I am guessing the head gaskets are ok. But I am perplexed as to where my coolant is going!
After reading more threads in the forum, (which I should have done more thoroughly before posting,) it seems that I may indeed have a head gasket leak. From what I've learned, that would cause me to lose coolant through the exhaust while driving, and would explain why I don't see a visible leak anywhere. Am I on the right track? Before I replace the head gaskets, are there any other causes that may have a simpler fix??
My 1999 Mazda Protegé has the hiccups ...every now and then it loses power for a fraction of a second. It lasts just long enough to feel it clearly, but it's gone before I can think about it. Very distinct sensation, but it certainly doesn't push me against the seat belt. It's been doing this for over a year (about 5-7,000 miles). No Check Engine Light has appeared at any time. The timing belt was replaced a few thousand miles back.
Yes, I've had it to a mechanic, a trusted local one. I even left it with him for several days. The car won't hiccup for him. I sometimes notice it around town, but I notice it more when driving on the highway (which has probably been over half my mileage in the past year), but I'm still disappointed that it won't do it for him. He suspects a spark plug wire -- he says it's probably only one cylinder based on my description -- but doesn't want to start replacing the wires if he can't diagnose it.
Recommendations? Should I just replace the wires and figure if that doesn't do it, it's part of the cost of diagnosis? (This much I should be able to do myself.) Should I try something else? Actually, as I think about it, he could have been encouraging me to replace the wires myself.
Today leaving work my 2009 Mazda Tribute suddenly lost all acceleration after pulling out of the parking lot. Didn't die but was running like it was about to. Pressing the gas pedal had no effect at all. When I turned the car off and started it again, it did start -- with trouble but it started. It ran OK for a few miles but suddenly lost acceleration again. Same thing. The car ran but the gas pedal had no effect. Shutting off and restarting got it going. In the 30 mile trip home it did it a total of 3 times. Each time shutting off and restarting. When I was able to accelerate, it seemed to accelerate OK, but at the same time felt weak and .... laggy. That last part could just be in my head though. Just wondering where to start to fix this.
View 13 RepliesMy 4.2 l f150 has been losing a lot of oil.7quarts in a week.the truck runs great and it does not smoke.i have been under the truck looking for any significant leaks.I left it parked on concrete overnight no oil drips. I've had my wife rev it up while I was under the truck cannot find anything
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota RAV4 with 137,500. I got it in 2004 with 93,000 miles. Since I've had it, it burns about 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so. I don't think it's been getting worse since I've had it. I had the compression in the cylinders checked last year, and the compression's good in all four of them. What the problem might be? It the problem worth repairing, or should I just keep adding a quart of oil every 1,000 miles? Also, does burning oil damage other parts of the car?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Volvo 850 where the battery slowly loses its charge. We don't drive it much so every two weeks it has to be trickly charged.
I have determined that there is a drain of 150 mA. When removing fuse 15, it drops to a drain of 50-60 mA. When removing fuse 6 (central locking)(in conjunction with 15) it drops to a drain of 10 mA. I can live with a drain of 10 mA
I don't mind removing fuse 15 as it is not critical. However, with the fuse removed, it makes a beeping noise - like the indicator when a door is open. IS THERE A SIMPLE WAY TO STOP THE BEEPING?
I understand that there is an electrical issue but not sure I want to spend a lot of money to fix it. I am not very mechanically inclined and I have a feeling it could cost a lot to fix this.
My 2004 Mazda MPV with just over 200,000 miles, started experiencing slow warm-up (during warm weather) approximately 5,000 miles ago. Shortly thereafter, I noticed slowly increasing coolant loss. The coolant loss was diagnosed as a cracked radiator, and, while a new radiator was being installed and the system flushed, I had the original thermostat replaced at the same time. The repairs cured the coolant loss problem, and for a short while the car seemed to warm up normally. However, once the weather turned cold, I started experiencing very slow engine warm-up and also have a minimal amount of heat, even after the temp gauge indicates that the engine is up to operating temperature. The rear heater is experiencing the same minimal amount of heat even after the engine is up to temperature.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1990 mazda 2600i 4x4 truck that is leaking coolant on the right side of the engine about mid ways back. What that could be coming from? My light was very dim and I couldn't tell much by looking.
View 1 RepliesI inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
View 4 RepliesI noticed recently that I have a coolant leak in a used car that I got a few months ago. I've been driving this thing pretty regularly at this point, but I haven't noticed any overheating. The engine temp stays shy of the midpoint line on the meter, both at speed and in idle.
The coolant reservoir was empty a little over a month ago, so I filled it up. A few days ago, I took a look at it, and it was empty again. I refit a hose that was a little loose and decided I'd just wait and see what happened after driving it some. Over the past few days, I've noticed slight decreases in the coolant level each day.
Today was no different, except that after I drove for about 15 minutes on probably the hottest day of the year so far (about 95 degrees, don't know if that matters at all), I noticed there was coolant sprayed on the hood. I opened the hood and there was quite a bit of coolant pooled on the far left of the radiator top, right between the coolant reservoir and the radiator pressure cap. What's going on here?
I have a 2002 Mazda 626 with 134,00 miles. About a month ago there was a large coolant leak in the middle part of the engine. My mechanic replaced the coolant by-pass hose from the thermostat housing under exhaust manifold to engine block. A few days ago there was another leak around where the coolant reservoir is. Gauge read hot and had to top off coolant on way to repair shop. Topped off reservoir and next morning most of the coolant had drained out. My mechanic has done a pressure check, drove the car, let it sit and idle for up to an hour and there was no leak or overheating.
View 1 RepliesAfter/during the rain, every other time my truck loses considerable power to accelerate. It's not consistent but happens increasingly often. As I accelerate up to ~ 50km/h (also when I reverse), my engine will shake the entire truck. Past 50 it "appears" to go away. Typically this will last up to 10 mins and will disappear and run fine again. The last time it happened the check engine light came on and went away the next day. After reading online, I've heard about the "COP" connection??
2003 Ford F-150, 4.6L Triton V8 XL, 2WD
I've owned this car for a year and a half. A few weeks ago, my car stopped running while i was idling. It started back up without a problem. When I got home, I saw that the coolant reservoir was empty and i topped it off. last week, a faint white smoke came from the hood while i was driving. When I got home, I saw that the coolant reservoir was empty again, so i topped it off again. This morning, the faint white smoke appeared from under the hood again. The coolant reservoir was full and there were no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
View 2 RepliesTraveling approximately 40-45 MPH and my engine just quits. I was able to turn(very hard without power) to get off the road. I tried to restart the vehicle and it wouldn't crank over. After calling roadside assistance and the PD, I tried again and it stated. On the same day, I was driving home from appointment and it happened again, this time while accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. Same scenario, only this time the truck turned over a lot quicker than the first time. A couple days later, it happens again while accelerating after a stop and making a left hand turn. Now I call the mechanics and ask if this could have something to do with the module they replaced for my AC. They check out the truck and get a new module to install, which they did under warranty. We also left the truck with them to drive to see if it did it to them, it didn't. So DH takes truck and he drives it and it does it to him. Now though, with me and with him, the truck seems to start back up quicker than the first and subsequent times. We are going away for a bit and plan to leave the truck with the mechanics to drive to see if it does it to them since they still haven't had it happen while they've had it. I'm stumped. They were able to fix the ac very reasonably and a few other things have popped up, but this truck has been really good to me and I'm trying to drive it into the ground, so to speak, as it still has very low mileage for its age. Of course, the thought of it just conking out while driving is very disconcerting. I wait until the roads are completely clear to do u-turns and such, but in the back of my mind, I know it can shut off anytime.
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 Mazda and I notice that the air compressor never shuts off unless I turn the A/C off. I have checked the relay and it is fine. What other control is keeping the compressor clutch from releasing?
View 3 RepliesThis mazda is relatively quiet when on park and neutral and can feel more shake (feel from steering) while shifting to drive mode while idle/before redlight. it can feel more shake while on speed over 70 mph. it feel ok on speed lower than 70 mph. Just wonder if the engine/trans mount is the root cause. The trans is on drive side and engine is on passenger side. engine inside mount has been replaced and does not solve the problem much.
View 3 Replies2006's battery will die after 1 week of non-use. It is a new battery. Does that sound normal?
The car does have the Toyota VIP alarm if that makes a difference.