I have a 1993 protege that was previously not having any issues. I recently had a mobile mechanic replace my axle after it broke. Since then I have had issues with the rpm's increasing but the speed staying the same or decreasing. This happens mostly uphill and especially when the vehicle is cold. Is there another reason this can occur besides a bad clutch?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
I did have a code for IAT 2 circuit high I think I read that the egr is disabled when the iat 2 sensor is getting more than 4.8 volts.
Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
View 4 RepliesSo I was driving my car and notice when I was in 5th gear the rpm was at 3 and was increasing to 4 then when back to 3 or 3500 rpm. I tired it again but with a little more gas to it and got the same results. Wondering if this is signs of clutch slipping or another cause.
View 5 RepliesJust got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
Today i wanted to slow down a bit after hitting 75mph on a 65mph freeway so i stepped off the gas pedal. However the speed did not decrease but kept going up slowly to 80 till i stepped on the brake in order to slow down. After hitting the brake , it seemed to work as usual ( speed decreases when foot is pff the pedal). Had to do it multiple times today? Am i missing something? Only happened on the freeway, once i got off it seemed fine.
2014is 250 f.
Had a long trip with the X this week and noticed a weird vibration up at speed. Anything before 65 mph and the truck was smooth, higher than that a medium vibration developed. Its frequency increased with speed. Never got the truck over 70, but the vibration was there enough to rattle change in the cup holder and the rear view mirror. What it might be? I was thinking a hub bearing... 2000 Limited 4x4 PSD ....
View 14 RepliesHad the front end axle replaced due to a boot that was ripped on the CV joint. Three months later the front end is vibrating while increasing speed and passing. The shop is telling me its my transmission?! Doesn't sound right to me. So i take it to another shop and they say its the axle. Okay its under warrenty but the other shop says its the transmission.
View 10 Replies1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
I have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
I have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.
My 1993 Mazda B2600i starts up in the morning just fine. It runs for about 10 minutes and abruptly shuts off. I can crank it at full speed, (Good Battery), and it may attempt to start a few times and then it just cranks with no attempt to fire up. It just turns until the next day morning. Then it is the same thing all over again. I disconnected the fuel line from the out let of the fuel filter, leading to the fuel injectors and was able to fill a 2.5 cup glass jar in about 20 to 30 seconds.
I checked the ignition coil and there was spark there. Then I checked for spark at the #1 and #2 cylinders and detected the spark there as well. When the truck runs in the morning, for the 10 minutes that it runs, it seems to be very smooth in its operation. No abnormalities at all until it shuts off. I also listened to the fuel injectors with a screw driver at my ear and herd a fairly consistent clicking of the fuel injectors during the 10 minute operation of the engine.
every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
View 9 RepliesI need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
So I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
My 2002 Mazda MPV will stall everytime after the rpms go over 2,000 and I let off the gas. I can put it in neutral and it will start back up. Not sure if something is clogged or its electrical? It has 177,000
View 6 RepliesI have a 1993 Chevy Silverado, 350, 2WD. It has a 4L60E transmission. I just started having a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. When accelerating the RPM's go way up and won't shift until I let off the throttle. Then it shifts into all other gears normally.
If I accelerate slowly. it will shift into 2nd at about 16 MPH. It will then shift into all other gears normally. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, flushed the transmission and replaced the filter and fluid. This made know change in performance.
I am now suspecting that it might be the 1-2 shift solenoid. The check engine light is not on and everything else works fine.
I own a mazda 3 6 speed and im curious as how to test my clutch for slippage. I read on a old forum that to put the e brake up and put the car in 1st gear and release the clutch. When i did that my car tried to move but after a couple seconds i put it back in neutral. Another forum said to do the same but put it in 3rd as i released the clutch it stalled right away.
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