Mazda :: 1987 - How To Turn Off The EGR Light
Aug 23, 2013
I have an '87 Mazda B-2000 pickup. How to turn off the EGR light? I think it comes on at set intervals when it wants you to check the EGR system.
View 1 RepliesI have an '87 Mazda B-2000 pickup. How to turn off the EGR light? I think it comes on at set intervals when it wants you to check the EGR system.
View 1 Replies1987 323 Mazda, manual transmission. Recently replaced motor and transmission and air conditioner, all used. Prior to replacement vehicle burned oil and was leaking transmission fluid and air conditioner wasn't working. Air conditioner was leaking and mechanic fixed the leak. First time I started it after that, there were a few big puffs of white smoke. Drove it about a week. Putting it in first was a little rough (but that was a problem with the transmission we used for replacement from another old car of ours we junked). but no other problems. Then we noticed it was leaking quite a bit of antifreeze and we could see it leaking onto the engine. We were putting antifreeze in it everyday.
I drive around 80 miles a day. After about a week, I had been driving it about 40 miles that day, I backed it into a driveway to turn around and when I put it in first, it was jerking and lurching. Drove it a carlength and it died. No check engine light. No overheating. Started it again and it bucked a few times while driving another carlength and died again. Then would start and die, start and die, start and die. No movement. Called the tow truck and took it to the mechanic. He said it was the fuel pump and fuel filter and replaced both those. He also fixed the antifreeze leak which was a loose clamp.
The next morning I drove it, it still lurched a couple times and a couple puffs of white smoke. Then I drove it about 10 miles, no problem. Parked it for about 2 hours and started it again. No problem initially, but then when I got to first stop sign in about a block, it lurched a bit. Next stop sign, another lurch. Then on the interstate a couple more small lurches, but not bad. After 10 miles I cruised to a stop and put it in neutral (to leave the engine on) and it died. No check engine light. Just the charge light came on. I had been playing the radio and radio was fine.
I started it again and drove straight to mechanic (about 2 miles). It lurched and bucked some along the way, but no white smoke. He replaced distributor but he said it didn't work. He said it was worse than before. I've looked at some similar problems on the net and here's what I found:
ground wire from the battery to the body and from engine to frame
EGR valve
Crankshaft position sensor
Powertrain control module (I don't even know if this car has one of those)idle air control
I don't know if mechanic has looked at any of the above.
My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX with odd wiper behavior. Sometimes the wipers work for a few minutes to a few days at a time, other times they won't turn on at all. They seem to work best when it's not raining. And sometimes I'll turn them on (just to see if they work today), get no response, turn them off again, drive for a few minutes and the wipers will suddenly give two or three swipes - with the switch still off!
Since we've replaced the wiper linkage and the wiper motor, all that's left to replace is the wiper switch, but that is proving to be much more complicated than expected.
No one has parts for this car. I was able to locate the wiper motor and linkage, but I can't find a switch anywhere. My questions:
1. Does this sound like a switch problem?
2. Any leads on a switch for this car? I don't want to buy one in a junkyard, as it will probably be as old and worn out as the one I'm replacing.
Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
I have a 1987 Ford E-150 with 160K - used to haul the race car. It's had a lot of issues and the latest is that when the engine has warmed up, then shut down, the starter struggles to turn the engine over until the engine cools. Once it does, it turns over and starts right up.
I figure it's the starter getting hot, but I want to know why this would be the case. Does the heat expand the starter shaft so it binds a bit with the bearing? Is it the increased resistance of the wire?
Why my key would not turn in the starter, although an hour previously and up to yesterday it has always worked just fine. Again, this morning, the key turned just fine. Is this a warning that I'm heading towards disaster?
View 10 RepliesAs the title states, I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 series Pickup and while everything is working great, the a/c is driving me insane!
Here's how it goes:
- Start the car, turn on the A/C, hear a click
- As I drive, after 10-20 minutes, the A/C would just either switch to (what I think is) vent; it blows humid, warm air.
- Another way to turn it off is to accelerate quickly; Note: these two scenarios are sometimes inconsistent
- Sometimes, it would occur, while other times it would just randomly turn itself off
- A solution I've found is to switch over to vent, leave it on there for a few minutes, then switch back to A/C; works for another 10-20 minutes
What I have done to fix it is to replace the freon (even though, it was never really empty; still isn't empty) and have replaced the fuse associated with the A/C.
My son's mazda 6 will turn over but not start. the things I have done:
1. replace crank sensor
2. replace cam shaft sensors
3. it has spark
4. fuel pump works
5. sprayed starting fluid in still will not start.
What else should I check? Security system?
I have a 2003 Mazda B2300 pickup that sometimes won't start. When you turn the key all the way, it won't do anything, no sounds no nothing. However, if you try it a few more times it will eventually fire up and run normally. Last Friday, I must have tried to turn it on about a dozen times but nothing happened. So I tried the old hammer on the starter motor technique and it fired up immediately.
So I thought it must be the starter motor. But since then it's been turning on normally, except once when I turned the key and it did nothing. The battery is good, I replaced that about 8 months ago, and the battery cables look good. I'm hesitant to throw a new starter in. Could it be something cheaper, like a relay or some other electrical problem? Or could it be the starter and its on its way out?
I have a 2000 Mazda B4000 with 2 little problems I don't know anything about. First is when I go to start the truck it takes a long time to turn over. A friend of mine said that a valve is not maintaining fuel pressure so the fuel is not sitting ready for the starter when I go to start up. But if i engage the key for a few seconds and time it right it will turn over easily (apparently allowing the fuel pressure to build to the appropriate level). Is this a little valve or gasket or something I can replace to maintain the pressure?
Second, when I'm coming from a stop or accelerating out of a slow roll there is a 'shudder' or 'shiver' in the drivetrain that almost feels like the shift from 1st to 2nd is just kinda lumpy. It also happens if I come to an abrupt stop, so gearing down into 1st. It doesn't feel like something that is getting worse, but I don't want it to be causing damage or have my driveshaft snap or something.Other than that this truck seems really well maintained by the previous owner, and a mechanically inclined friend of mine said everything else looks.
On my `87 Caprice Classic 305 the brake warning light came on so I topped off the fluid but the light remains on. Brake peddle travel is good and my car has good braking. Am wondering what else triggers the warning light to illuminate.
View 2 RepliesMy 87 F-150 rear antilock light was coming on and off every now and again, but now it is on all the time... What it could be.
View 4 RepliesI drive my pickup (87 Toyota 4-cylinder carburetor 5-speed Xtracab Deluxe) occasionally. When it's sat for a week or more it takes a few tens of seconds to start. I bought a booster battery. The charging light comes on, but it goes out as soon as the engine starts. I'm used to hard-to-start cars charging for a while after a long start. The voltage coming out of the alternator is okay. The battery is new; the density of the electrolyte is right.
View 19 RepliesI'm driving my mom's 1987 Chevy Spectrum, which has about 190,000 miles on it. The Check Engine light comes on daily, but only when I'm driving uphill. The Chevy dealer says because the car is so old, it will take several hundred MORE bucks to find out what the codes mean. Doesn't seem to matter how full the gas tank is, or how steep the hill is. Other than this light, she just keeps going and going. Do I need to track down the cause? Might there be other symptoms that would diagnose it that I'm unaware of?
View 3 RepliesSo the car has 160K+ miles on it and in the past week I jumped in it and tried to take off and the steering wheel was rock hard to turn, so I assumed the power steering fluid was low and filled it up with lucas stop leak and within an hour all the stop leak leaked out the bottom of the car. The leak is normally leaves a puddle around the passenger front tire but is actively leaking out of the middle bottom of the engine. Could this be a bad power steering pump? Is it gonna cost me an arm and a leg to fix?
View 7 RepliesMy dash light fuse blew. I checked with a meter and I have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring for the lights. Everything else seems to be working fine.
Is there a copy of the wiring diagram somewhere?
I have the big ford shop manual but I't doesn't have any diagrams. (might be missing pages, I got it off Ebay and the index is missing T-Z).
I have the Haynes but it doesn't have the diagram for the dash lights.
I have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
View 6 RepliesOur 2008 Mazda CX 9 has been making a grinding sound and also the ABS light comes on when we make a right turn on a slight decline after having come to a stop. We have reported to Mazda multiple times but they always say they can't replicate the problem and can't find anything. I am concerned that something in the car is becoming more and more damaged because there is no way something grinding like that can be good for the car and I am frustrated that it's never been diagnosed especially now that it's out of warranty although I established a record of the issue long before the warranty period expired.
View 5 Replies1996 Mazda Protégé, 128,821 miles, in town driving 5000 miles per year in recent years.
I hit the frame of my garage door about 6 months or more ago which partially pulled off the front bumper area and knocked the right turn signal lens and headlight out of whack. My handyman fixed it up, by using good quality baling wire so the turn signal and headlight etc worked.
Then, I did the same thing a couple of weeks ago. (I was trying to avoid hitting my bicycle which I had just had reconditioned for an ungodly amount of money) My handyman is unavailable to fix it again. I have gotten stopped once by the police for the malfunctioning turn signal so it was time to get it fixed.
Mechanic (same one as previous posts) said it will cost 1500 to replace the bumper area etc so the front turn signals will work. He absolutely insisted that the turn signal wires cannot be reconnected. He reattached the bumper area "temporarily". I am willing to pay to get the turn signals functioning but do I need to replace the whole bumper assembly unit?
Does this seem plausible?? I just want the turn signals to work. I do not care about how it looks. (I drove the car in the interim with a bright yellow bungie cord holding the unit together)