Manual-transmissions - Fiat - Transmissions :: Engine Turns But Doesn't Rev Nor Does It Catch
Jul 17, 2011
I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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Just recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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I'm not sure if it's a missing bolt or another issue, but my shifter just started becoming "sticky" while in neutral. Sticky meaning when I go to slide it side to side while in neutral it's slow, and it's slow to return to the middle when I release it on the left just under 1st (while in neutral). I noticed that I can pull up on the shifter and it actually lifts and glides easily then, but add I shift over the day it pushes back down and repeats. Goes into and out of gear ok, I hear some grinding nose even in neutral unless I lift up on the shifter.
Side note that may be unrelated, my hand break stopped laying flat when disengaged. I it pops up slightly causing the break light to come on. Both began about the same time.
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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Reverse gear doesn't work on my 1999 F350, is the transmission need to be rebuilt? or it can be adjust thru the cable. the rest gears on transmission is Ok.
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I have a 2000 Toyota 4 Runner with 115k miles on it. While in Colorado a month ago, we were driving down a snow covered hill and some guy banged on the window telling us the right rear wheel wasn't spinning. We put it in reverse and it rolled fine that way but still didn't when we headed back in drive. I goosed it a little bit and it went "bam" and drove fine after that.
We were in 4 wheel drive at the time. Last night it happened again. I put the vehicle in drive and it wouldn't budge. I goosed it a little again and it went "bam" and drove several feet until I stopped. It froze up again for a few more minutes. It was NOT in 4 wheel drive this time. Is it time to dump this thing or get a new transmission in preparation for the inevitable?
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1992 Fod Explorer XLT: When I attempt to turn over the engine, the flywheel spins, but the engine doesn't. This is a very gently driven vehicle. I drove home hone day, backed into the driveway and unloaded the groceries. The next morning, when I tried to start it, the engine will not turn over. I dropped the starter and tested it--all good. While I had the starter off, I found I could spin the flywheel freely--appears to not be attached to the engine. It's tight with no play whatsoever. Last year I had a new flywheel installed--something I would do myself, but decided I'm at the age, I'm just not up for it. It's been running great for 18 months with no problems. There was never a noise. This just happened one morning. I thought the crank may be broken, but that seems unlikely since it was driving great until the next morning.
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i have a 1999 mercury cougar and for almost a year when I drive it on the highway then get off and go to drive again it gives me a hard shift and will continue doing so, but if i turn the car off then back on it doesn't do it, very weird, but i got the codes and not sure what my next step would be to fixing it p1744- TCC system perform p1519 - IMRC stuck closed again this only happened when i drive the car for about 10-15 min on the highway then get off...
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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I have a 2013 Forester with 39k miles, and last week I was 200 miles from home, put it in Drive and it didn't engage. After car was left running for a few minutes, and shifting between P, R, N, & D, it finally engaged. I was able to get it home and took to dealer the next day. They looked at the car, checked the computer logs, and told me nothing was wrong. Since then, it's happened 3 more times, and now I'm noticing it's not shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd gear (engine will rev and then it'll slip into gear).
To make matters worse, my wife couldn't get it out of Park two days ago. She had to use the shift lock release button, and could only start it when it was in Neutral. She then couldn't get it to back into Park and had to park it on a level surface with parking brake engaged. Heading back to dealer now, but would love to hear others' input.
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A little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
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So, as the title says, my Miata won't start when it's hot. The engine keeps turning over but doesn't catch, and I have to let it cool down for about 20 minutes before it will turn on again. When it does turn back on, it blows a ton of white smoke out the back and I can smell gas for about 5 min afterwards. I have replaced the spark plugs and the wiring for them, and the problem is still there.
Also, I can bump start the car with little to no difficulty. It runs ragged for a few minutes then it runs great. So, what's up.
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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I'll start out by stating that I failed to get new transmission fluid, which definitely caused the issue. So let's go back to December 26th. Check engine light came on, and I assumed it was for the oil (which has never happened before, suspicious). So I changed the oil, and took it for a test spin. Well, a mile later, I was going up a hill, and the clutch started slipping. Yes, I know, it's an auto, but I know the feeling of a clutch slipping... no power, engine revving up, jolting forward when slip stops. At this point, I drive it home without much incident, a few slips and I part it but don't drive it again. Checked the engine, and transmission fluid was out. Filled it back up, seemed to take care of the problem of slipping, but now there's a new problem...
The new problem is the following. Every once in a while, going uphill or applying full power in first gear, the clutch will slip. Also, this happens 99% of the time, first gear to second gear is a bit of a jolt, not much more than normal, but it's noticeable. And the transmission is kind of loud too, first gear sometimes sounds like there's a marble in there. Is this a rebuild? Will it work itself out?
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Recently bought an Audi A4 Quattro from a dealer with 112,876 miles on it.. The car runs absolutely beautiful, it up-shifts and downshifts without any noticeable issue, it changes gears without any issue, however... When I am trying to maintain a stable speed of around 35 - 40mph and my engine hangs around 1700RPM it'll bounce up and down slightly..
The revs will hop between 1700RPM up to around 1750RPM and then back down, and then up again.. It's hardly noticeable and the only time it causes any issue/delay is when it hops above 2000RPM and then back down... Is the torque converter the issue or what else could be the cause? Timing belt has been done, spark plugs have been checked, oil has been changed.
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My wife's 2004 Mercury Sable broke down on the highway last night. We had it towed to the nearest Ford Dealership and are awaiting the official diagnosis. I am 99% sure it is transmission, as the engine didn't die, but zero of engines power is reaching tires in any gear.
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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On most of the newer cars there is no transmission dipstick and therefore there is no way for the consumer to check the condition or the level of the automatic transmission fluid and also there is no way for the consumer to add fluid or transmission additives. Is there a way to taking the vehicle to a dealer or a mechanic?
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