Manual-transmissions - Escort :: ZX2 Shifter Able To Be Pulled Up And Pushed Down
Mar 17, 2016
I'm not sure if it's a missing bolt or another issue, but my shifter just started becoming "sticky" while in neutral. Sticky meaning when I go to slide it side to side while in neutral it's slow, and it's slow to return to the middle when I release it on the left just under 1st (while in neutral). I noticed that I can pull up on the shifter and it actually lifts and glides easily then, but add I shift over the day it pushes back down and repeats. Goes into and out of gear ok, I hear some grinding nose even in neutral unless I lift up on the shifter.
Side note that may be unrelated, my hand break stopped laying flat when disengaged. I it pops up slightly causing the break light to come on. Both began about the same time.
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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My Mustang is an automatic. The shifter in the console sticks when changing gears. At times, I have to keep it half way into another gear or else I hear grinding or the car won't go into gear. Is it my transmission or my console?
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My 1998 Civic coupe Si has 160,00 miles and I enjoy her today as much as I did the day I bought her new 15 years ago!Just recently the manual shifting has become heavy and "sticky". Problem popped up almost from 1 day to the next. Not gradual.Still shifts OK, and no other transmission issues.
Second issue: Pinhole in catalytic converter (according to garage). Any way to patch it? Just trying to baby her along without putting too much $ into repair.
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When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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It's been going on for awhile now...shifter hangs up to one side or the other instead of self recentering when put in neutral. I have checked the interior and there is no dirt of grime on the white nylon ball that the shifter floats on and it was also lube with some white lithium spray (liquid wrench). Checked under the hood. All connections are good and solid and free from any obstructions. Trans fluid was changed 10k miles ago. Not sure what else to check.
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2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
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last night I was on my way to work and had the car in forth traveling about forty-five. A light ahead of me turned red and I held the clutch in until I had stopped. I shifted into what I thought was first. I discovered that regardless of the shifter position, the transmission left it in forth gear. Barely got it moving from a stop and brought it back home.
Looking under the car, I don't know exactly what the linkage mechanism looks like. I'm not sure how to tell if it has been disconnected or misaligned. I don't know if the problem is in the transmission itself either. The shifter moves to other positions freely, but in actuality it stays locked in forth gear.
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I cannot locate a picture of where the manual 4wd shifter mounts up to the transmission.
I am finishing up 4wd'ing my F550, but am not exactly sure how the shifter bolts up. Can someone take their boot and bezel off and take a couple photos of how the shifter mounts to the 5R100W by any chanc?
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
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Where the cabin air is taken from to get recirculated?
I thought it was taken from the foot well of the passenger, but based on the position of the air filter there (behind the glove compartment) and presence of dirt on the top (and not the bottom) of it, it seems that air is pushed out (downwards) and not taken from the foot well.
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So my engine light came on today while I was out so when I got home I plugged in my OBD2 reader and it gave me a P0441 code which in my Haynes manual says "Evaporative emission control system- incorrect purge flow." Before I got my scanner, I had the engine light come on and I took it to VW. It was the same thing last time. I couldn't quite understand the poor explanation given from the VW guy and so now that that code ran again.
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At times my 08 will beep when I open the driver's door and I have the keys in my hands. The only thing I can assume is that it thinks the key is still in. On occasion this has caused my battery to go flat.
To stop it I just go through the sequence of putting the key back in, put it in D then P then foot on the brake and the off/power/start button, it took me 5 goes to get it back to normal tonight.
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I started to notice this before I lowered the car but the car felt similar to when you hit those tar strips in the summer. It would just pull one way or the other.
I replaced sway bar end links, tie rod ends, one side control arm bushing, and got it aligned.
I figured that one of these was worn but it did not fix the problem.
Now when I accelerate hard at speed the car pulls to the left even with the wheel totally straight and it pulls to the right when I let off the gas.
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