My 2007 4 cyl. Malibu does a shimmy and shake when I step on the brakes. It seems to be worse when traveling at a faster rate of speed then when driving around town.
View 7 RepliesStarted having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
Why does my car front end shake when I go pass 65mph steering vibrates & everything inside does to then you can feel that right or left tire shaking not to sure....
2005 chevy malibu classic....
For the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
I have just swapped a new Vortec V-8 engine into my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 4*4, now when I start the truck and put it into reverse (foot still on brake pedal), I let off of the brake and the next time I step on the brake pedal the truck stalls. What would be causing this? I have no error codes on the computer, my fuel pressure is good, I just replaced the fuel pump. I think that it might be a sensor somewhere, but I am not sure where to look.
View 2 RepliesI heard some noise which seems coming from the brakes. But the noise is always there even when I do not apply the brakes. I think if the noise relates to the brakes or the pads, there should be no noise until I apply the brakes, am I right? My car: Chevy Malibu, 1999. The brake light is not on.
View 1 RepliesHere's my issue, after a full break job my right front brake began to grind. Curiously it wouldn't grind initially after breaking soon after start up. I could go on and slow break for quite a distance, but soon after a hard brake or just slow breaking long enough the grinding begins. I've taken the car back to Firestone three times and even after a few adjustments or cleaning the problem persist... I've starting to feel bad for Firestone and embarrassed to be holding on to this 99 Chevy. I can't continue to drive this small car that sounds like a MTA bus while braking.
But I digress... I did notice, purely by accident (or it may be a mere coincidence), a few times the ABS light came on and during those periods the grinding was less abrasive. This leads me closer to believing the issue is with the caliper.
2009 Malibu had normal brake replacements. Front brakes began squealing. Mechanic said there was a lot of dirt, cleaned. Still squealing. Claiming that the brakes were getting hot due to weather. Well now it is cool still squealing. He said brakes are in real good shape. Why are they squealing.......... never had this problem before. He said they don't make the brakes like they use to, ok to drive because brakes are in good shape......I don't understand.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevy Malibu. Lately when the engine is cold I will get to the end of the street and when I apply the brakes the car will make a clunking noise and a couple of times it has actually died and I have to restart the car. I only experience this the first thing in the morning, after that the car seems fine. I cannot tell if it is the brakes causing the problem or the transmission.
View 5 RepliesI just had my front brake pads replaced by a local shop. I am now hearing a clunking noise every time I step on the brakes. I got the brake pads from the local Lexus Dealership but had them installed by a local shop. Is it normal to have this clunking for the first couple hundred miles until the brakes "wear" in or do I need to have someone else look at the brakes?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu, with 163,000 miles. About three weeks ago, about the time it really started to get cold, I had a 'Low Oil' warning come up. I drove about 150 feet to get out of the road and added oil. Ever since then I have been smelling burnt oil when stopped. I have taken to checking the oil every couple of days. I have yet to see any leaking oil. Is this something that I need to worry about, or is the car just getting old?
View 12 Replies2002 SC430 with 50k miles. I have a set of aftermarket Dolce rims that are 18" with the stock size tires. I have the eccentric spacers on them as well. They have been mounted and balanced. I also have a set of Dunlop snow tires on my stock rims. Obviously I do a seasonal change over.
With either set of tires I am getting a steering wheel shake at 60-65 mph. By 80mph its gone and the car glides perfectly. There is no pulsation in the brake pedal and there is minimal wear on the pads. Below 60mph there is no issues as well.
Tires are wearing evenly. Some roads will make the movement worse, but it always goes away at around 80 mph.
Now both sets of tires were mounted and balanced by the same shop. I assume that could be it...there machine is faulty. But I would like some other possibilities before I try somewhere else.
I have a 2010 Corolla. I am not sure what the problem is but the car shimmys and shakes when i slow down and almost stalls. Its not a brake issue but the brakes need to be replaced. The engine light comes on , stays on for 3 days then goes off then comes on again and there is sometimes a loss of power. I checked the coil packs but they are good . I'm wondering if it's a MAF sensor issue.
View 3 RepliesCar: 2004 Mini Cooper, 103k miles
Issue 1: car shake- At about 70 mph the whole car (pedals, steering wheel, seats) has a shimmy. Car has 4 new (balanced) tires and the front wheel bearings have been replaced. I've been told possibly motor mounts.
Issue 2: clunky sound- we have the requisite pockmarked roads. When the car is cold there is a sound of something loose in the back end. Nothing has been found to be loose but the sound is... annoying. I've checked the spare tire and it is secure. What that could be?
Issue 3: violent wheel shake- Not exactly the most replicate of issues. Started a year ago in June - three times total now. When traveling at higher speed (65 plus) for longer times (75 min or more) when I'm not accelerating the steering wheel grabs and pulls to the right. It almost feels like the brakes are grabbing on one side but there's no noticeable wear on the brake pads. It takes quite a bit of strength to hold the wheel straight and when I accelerate, it dissipates. What could that be?
I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
View 9 RepliesI just recently started having trouble with the cruise control on my 2007 Chevy Malibu.
Last weekend, I went on an 800 mile trip (cruising most of the time) but stopped to have the tires rotated and balanced, and my oil changed halfway through (I was up for an oil change anyway). Got home late Monday, everything was fine. Then Thursday, my cruise control stopped working. The light on the steering wheel comes on to show that it is engaged, but I cannot set the speed.
The owners manual suggested it might be caused by low brake fluid. Checked that, saw it was a little low, maybe a centimeter, and filled it, but the cruise control still doesn't work. Thought maybe it was a fuse, but there wasn't a bad one.
I've seen some talk about it possibly linked to break or a transmission issue. For a few weeks, my Malibu has been making a lawnmower-ish sound when I drive 40 mph or faster. The problem persists whether its in manual or automatic. I didn't notice anything until I got my car back after loaning it to my parents for a weekend.
I bought the car used July 2010 from its first owner with about 37,000 miles. It's about 72,000 now.
We're on our third mechanic with no solution to our problem. My 2007 Chevy Equinox (93,000 miles) has performed flawlessly since I bought it new. Over the last 2 years, the brake light has come on a couple of times. Each time the brakes were reviewed by different mechanics who found nothing wrong other than the brake fluid being 1/4 cup low. Two bottle or less of 3 dot fluid were used to top of the brake fluid over 2 years. Two weeks ago we purchased 2 new tires and a REAR brake job from SHOP ONE, a tire/brake dealer.
The brake job was only because the car was nearing 100,000 miles and it seemed like a good idea. Immediately after the job, the brakes were extremely tight, barely giving to foot pressure. At freeway speeds one tire wobbled terribly, which SHOP ONE explained as the tire counterweight having fallen. SHOP ONE replaced the counterweight and pronounced the car fixed. Within 2 days, while on the freeway, the car started throbbing again, the brake stiffness was worse and the acceleration began to fail.
We towed the car to SHOP TWO, a very capable mechanic we've known for awhile. Computer codes show no problem with transmission or ABS or anything else. He said the problem was likely the master cylinder and booster, and took the following actions: Replaced FRONT brakes, master cylinder (OEM), booster (OEM), and rotors. The removed booster had more than a quart of liquid in it. He drove the car back and forth to his home to check performance with no problems.
When I drove the car back to my office the next day, the brakes seized up again, and I had to floor the accelerator to keep the car from dying. The car was towed back to SHOP TWO. The mechanic was able to replicate the problem but can't figure out what's causing it. There are and have been no signs of leaks. After seizing up. the car can be driven after 10 minutes of cool down.
The car is now at SHOP THREE, the dealer. Their computer diagnosis shows nothing wrong, but they recommend replacing the new master cylinder and booster with ANOTHER NEW master cylinder and rotor....
Love my 2012 TDI SEL. Lately I have noticed that it seems that the AC cuts out when I step on the brakes. I typically notice when I get off the freeway and come to a stop at the end of the off-ramp. The air coming out of the vents will be warm for some 5 - 10 seconds then get cold again.
I have also noticed this symptom from time to time when cruising along on the freeway. I know that some cars will disengage the AC if you really step hard on the gas, but that's not what's going on here it seems..... I have never had that happen in any other car. Is this normal for the 2012 Passat?
Have read through alot of the threads and can't seem to find an answer. Bought a used 94 explorer xlt. It came with brand new Wrangler tires. The day we bought it we were driving home and it started shaking and wobbling at about 95kms and but seemed to improve after 115. So I took it to the tire shop next day and had all 4 tires rebalanced. The shop told me that all were out to lunch. The worst was 2 ounces out. Ok cool. Was certain that was the problem. Took off. Got on the highway and same damn thing. The steering seems very tight. No bangs. No knocks. Just the bloody shaking. Oh and also the abs light comes on just as it starts to shake.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 excursion (94K) front end shimmies when I put on the brakes...could my rotors be warped...or is there something worn in the front end?
View 11 Replies