Malibu - Chevrolet :: 2001 - The Brake Pedal Would Drop To The Floor While Driving
Apr 19, 2012
I bought a 2001 chevy malibu about a month and a half ago.when I test drove it,didnt notice any problems or leaks...after driving it for a 2 weeks...the brake pedal would drop to the floor while driving and then if I hit it again real quick it would be ok...this problem would happen now and then....we replaced the right front caliper thinking that it was sticking and bled all the brakes..There was air in the system..everything was fine for about two more weeks then while driving the pedal would get hard when applied and then drop again..not all the way to the floor,and it alternates that way..what are your thoughts? I don't have much money to fix this problem.
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When I have to push on the brakes for a hard stop, I can feel the brake pedal and the steering wheel shake a whole lot. Also, he ABS light is on. Correlation between the 2 obviously?
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My 2001 Chevy Malibu overheated on the freeway the other day. I bought hey thermostat but I don't know if it is the water pump or not. Is there any way to tell without going through the elimination process?
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I have been working on my 01 Elantra for 2 days now. My problem is that I have absolutely no brake pedal at all, it just goes right to the floor. and this is only when the car is running, when it is off I give it a quick pump and i have a nice firm pedal. I installed a new master cylinder, bench bled it and all that jazz. I replaced the rear brakes and a wheel cylinder, I have also bled the brakes multiple times, and mutliple ways. bled the master while on the car and all the brakes while the car is off and while it is running. I dont know what else could be wrong with this. I looked at all the lines and there are no wet spots, no hoses are swelling up. everything looks top notch...i just have no brakes why.
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I have a 2001 Grand Prix SE 3.1 that the brake pedal goes to the floor. I did notice the fluid was low , filled it up. I do not think it sucked air, although I can not be sure of that. As you can imagine, it is a beater so don't want to stick a ton of money in it. I had someone look at it that said he thought it was a "sensor" that would cost over 500 bucks. I don't know of any brake sensors at all. If there is, do they cost that much? If not would this be a master cylinder.
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
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I've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
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I drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
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I have a Chevy 2006 Malibu LT V6 and when i first got the car a year ago I had no problems. After a few months, I would fill up the tank up completely and then drive it around and stop at a stop light. The gas meter would drop from Full to Empty with the light coming on then reset itself. It happened sparingly so I thought nothing of it. Now just a few days ago I filled the tank up and now the gauge is staying at Full when I know for a fact that I do not have a full tank. Whenever I turn on the car, the gas gauge needle jumps from full to empty to half to full to quarter until ending at full. Lately, I've been trying to go off the fuel mileage on my radio but with that resetting to what my fuel gauge says I'm getting fearful of running out of gas.
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2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
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My gas pedal wont work at all on my 1975 chevy malibu it feels like something slipped off when I stepped on it this morning....
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I bought new 2009 maibu, changed oil every 3000, never had problem with car. Just thought because I have200k miles would be good to clean heads, had dealer put ina BG product. About 2 weeks after that the car see muffled and the gas peddle is slow to react,. Now six months later I am starting to smell gas. My guess catalytic converter.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu, automatic transmission. When I put it in reverse and then press the gas pedal, I get a rather loud grinding noise for a couple of seconds. What is causing this, and is it doing any real damage? I have no other problems with the transmission.
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My daughter recently bought a 2004 chevy malibu. she had it checked by a mechanic, who said it was a decent car for the price. the turn signal does not work when she has the brake on.
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My wife drives a 2004 Chevy Malibu and for the past year has had issues with the power steering periodically going out while driving. It has primarily happened when making turns at lower speeds <45 MPH and a dashboard warning will flash power steering when it happens. The temporary fix has been to pull over, turn the car off and back on and it corrects itself, but when taken to mechanic nothing registers as wrong. Was not as serious of an issue when it happened at low speeds, but the other day it happened at freeway speed. Nobody seems to have a solution, including Chevrolet.
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I rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
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I was driving around today and had to hit the brakes really hard for the first time. ABS kicked in and during the ABS 'action' the brake pedal rapidly went to the floor. With each 'pump' the ABS made it felt like the pedal sunk slightly.
This was on dry pavement, a little gravelly / dirty and the car stopped rapidly, but just as I stopped the pedal was VERY close to the floor, and with just a touch more pressure it did in fact hit bottom.
Sounds to me like the ABS pump needs to be bled, is that right? Can I do that myself with a VAGCOM? I hate having the dealer do anything, even if it is their job. How to SAFELY confirm if cars does / does not do this as well?
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Recently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
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