I have an 01 mailibu that keeps overheating. I have replaced the water pump (twice) and had the thermostat replaced. The water pump and thermostat were replaced about a month ago. Last night while driving, i noticed the temp getting higher, so I turned on the heat, and instead of hot air, it was ice cold. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy Malibu overheated on the freeway the other day. I bought hey thermostat but I don't know if it is the water pump or not. Is there any way to tell without going through the elimination process?
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Malibu v-6 temp gauge is not working. I have replaced the temp sending unit and it works for a few weeks unit it goes out. What keeps killing the temp sendor?
View 6 RepliesWell, I'm still driving the same old 1998 Honda Civic DX two-door coupe, and I've got a problem with overheating. The temperature gauge needle doesn't get quite to the red, but it's popping up higher than usual, and I'm concerned to see it getting anywhere near the red. It usually spikes when I get off the highway and stop at a light, but it also does it occasionally in a drive thru, and recently, I discovered that when I give it a little gas in neutral, it brings the temperature gauge needle down to normal.
Here is the history of recent repairs and troubleshooting:
-About 3-4 years ago, I had a leaky radiator replaced, so the one that is in there isn't very old.
-Last year I had a mechanic replace the thermostat, the radiator fan, and the radiator cap when I started having this problem.
-A few months ago, I had the timing belt serviced (the entire kit, not just the belt), but since the water pump looked fine and the car has so much mileage (275,000 miles), I opted not to replace the water pump. (I regret that now. I usually replace the water pump with every other timing belt, but I've learned my lesson.)-I've been to several shops to get a diagnosis, but they have a hard time getting it to overheat at all, so they can't diagnose it.
One guy suggested the water pump might be worn out (inside, without leaking outside). Another guy suggested that "if it was the water pump, you would know it's the water pump." Each mechanic has done a pressure test on the cooling system and a flow test on the radiator, and they all say they are fine. One mechanic theorized that I might have a very small head gasket leak, but nobody else thinks that is the case and there is no sign of coolant and oil mixing. Besides, the temperature gauge has never been in the red.
-One mechanic who tried to diagnose the problem recommended replacing the plugs, plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap. After doing that, it is running better than it was, but that didn't resolve the overheating problem. He also retarded the spark timing, but it is self-adjusting, so it re-advances itself after a couple days of driving. I can hear what sounds like minor knocking, but it's always made that noise since it was new.
-Everyone who has tried to diagnose the problem says the thermostat is opening and closing as it should, and the radiator fan comes on and shuts off when it should.
I'm done getting second and third opinions, and I'm ready to start throwing parts at it. Do you think I should start with the water pump? What are your thoughts? Don't tell me to replace the car. I just bought a new motorcycle.
I drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
View 2 RepliesI was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
View 2 RepliesRecently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
The ABS light in my wife's car goes on and off intermittently with no apparent. The car has about 47,000 miles on it. Bad connection, computer going haywire, loose or corroded wiring?
View 3 Replies I have been dealing w/ a broken gas gauge for a while and have been monitoring my mileage and fill-ups and have been able to calculate my gas usage pretty well, however sometimes I may get a little lost on where my level is at. I just recently have been using a long plastic tie strap that reaches the end (I think) of the gas intake and I believe hits the gas tank. (Its goes in about 4' and I cannot push it any further at that point)
My question is when it comes up w/ no gasoline on it I am wondering how many gallons are remaining. Looking at a diagram of the gas tank it looks concave, where some of the gas may sit lower that where my tie hits. But I am almost certain that I have at least a few gallons remaining. For safety and other reasons this is not something that I am doing often, its just in this case I am a few miles from a gas station so I do not want to risk it.
My 01 passat is telling me to check my coolant when it's working fine and its not overheating I think it might just be a sensor because my check engine light is on and it's reading thermostat.
View 6 RepliesI bought a 2001 chevy malibu about a month and a half ago.when I test drove it,didnt notice any problems or leaks...after driving it for a 2 weeks...the brake pedal would drop to the floor while driving and then if I hit it again real quick it would be ok...this problem would happen now and then....we replaced the right front caliper thinking that it was sticking and bled all the brakes..There was air in the system..everything was fine for about two more weeks then while driving the pedal would get hard when applied and then drop again..not all the way to the floor,and it alternates that way..what are your thoughts? I don't have much money to fix this problem.
View 14 RepliesSo my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
I am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab XE with a V6 (without the supercharger). I bought it on Halloween night with only 42,000 miles. It now has 112,000 miles on it. I moved from Georgia to Kentucky and heard that I needed to have the cooling system flushed/filled to prevent it from freezing in the winter time. I then noticed that it would periodically "overheat." The temperature gauge would climb up to the line just below the "H" and then I would turn on the heater.
I read online about a "bleeder valve" on top of the intake manifold. I loosened it, squeezed the radiator hoses to get all of the air out and then tightened the bleeder valve. I then let it run until the thermostat opened, revved it up to 3,000 to let all of the coolant flow. Now, at various time with no specific reason, it will run fine and then just "decide" to overheat.
I can drive it on the interstate for fifteen minutes, park it in front of my house and then have to "tack it up to 3,000" just to get it cool. I've changed the thermostat and had the water pump tested. Neither of them are faulty. My mechanic vacuumed out all of the air from the system with a special tool the dealer recommends using and it still does the same thing. What's going on with this vehicle?
My '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
View 16 RepliesCoolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
View 8 RepliesDoes the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
View 11 RepliesMy temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
View 8 RepliesI drive a 1999 Malibu 6 cylinder M 3.1L, and this past week it has had a big issue. I noticed when driving to work that it started to heat higher than normal, then drop back down to a normal temp. It kept getting worse and almost overheating, so I went and bought a new thermostat (as I was told that was probably the issue) and a new radiator cap since I knew mine was old and leaked a little bit. Before putting the thermostat in, I had a neighbor look at it, and found some gunk in the coolant tank.
I took it in to get a coolant flush, but when I told the guy at the shop what I found, he told me that because these Chevy's used dexcool, if any other coolant was used, it would gel and therefore start clogging my system and that a flush would do nothing, and that I was looking at a repair that would be more than I was willing to pay.
My question for all of you is should I still go in to get someone to really look at it, get it flushed and put the new thermostat in? Or is the situation that the last mechanic presented probably the issue? I'm pretty broke, and don't want to spend money that I don't have to. But, if $100 will allow my car to run for awhile longer, I would rather do that then have it sit and die while I take the bus.