Malibu - Chevrolet :: 2000 - Compressor Motor Clutch Is Not Engaging When AC Turned On
Jul 13, 2012
I have a 2000 chevy malibu that has not had a/c the past 2 summers. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem could be. When I start the car and then turn on the a/c by pressing the button in the car nothing seems to happen.
When I went to look at the compressor motor I could see that the clutch is not engage and the middle of the compressor is not turning. What to check without taking to a mechanic??
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l have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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I recently purchased a 2005 Monte Carlo, it has the 3.4l V6. I live in Pa. and like others our winter has been real cold, I was waiting to pick up my wife from work the other day, while sitting in the car i was changing the heat selections from defrost to floor to bi-level and realized that the A/C compressor clutch is engaging when the selector is on defrost and floor, it disengages on bi-level. I know that it is supposed to engage on defrost. Is it normal for this car to activate the A/C on floor? if so it is a first for me.
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2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
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Got in my truck this morning and everything worked fine, no problems. Arrived at my destination and parked. Come out about two hours later start the truck and my A/C wont blow air, My truck is an 05 lariat so it has the climate control A/C. Everything was working fine it just wont blow air, When i turned the A/C on and off i could hear/feel the small thump of the clutch engaging on the compressor. I am thinking the blower fan just went south? or maybe something stupid that controls the blower fan? Summer is in full swing here in central florida, temps are 95+ not including the humidity...
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My 2005 Chevy Malibu (97,000 miles) started sounding like the motor was going to die tonight as I was idling. When I started to drive again, the motor sounded kind of noisy and the RPM's went up and down (from 1 to 2 and back down again), and the engine light came on. The temperature gauge showed that the car was running a little hotter than usual, but not much. The gas was about half full, I have had no problems with the gas gauge. I change my oil regularly. No message came on my message panel. I can turn off the engine and start it up again just fine, but the engine still sounds bad and the light still comes on.
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I have recently bought a R32 2008, and when trying to turn the AC I don't hear the AC compressor clutch clicking, the fans are running normally (radiator fans ). What should I check ? Someone told me that maybe it's a compressor problem, and another one said that if the refrigerant gas is low the clutch won't be engaged.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu LS 3.1 V6, the car is burning oil, and I want to know your opinion.
The car had thermostat problems and was overheated, after I changed the thermostat the engine started smoking and every body told me it was the head gaskets, but the car is not burning coolant, is actually burning oil.
When I start the car, first is the steam coming up from the tail pipe, then when the car is warm, the oil smoke stars to come out from the tail pipe.
I checked the spark plugs and all six showed a lot of oil on them, so my question is, is this because the piston rings or the engine is getting oil from somwhere else beside the piston rings. There is times when is not smoke at all, and then again a lot of smoke.
In the past I saw cars burning oil from probably one or two piston chambers, but no from all of them at the same time, and on this one when I checked, all the spark plugs were wet in oil.
I was researching about this particular engine, and looks like have some issues with the head gaskets due to overheating and the fact of the heads being made from aluminum. What can I check before taking the engine apart.
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I just noticed the 4 wheel drive on my 2000 Chevy S10 doesn't seem to be engaging. The traction doesn't get any better turning it on and the other day I got stuck on a hill and the back wheels weren't spinning. What I can check or look at to fix it?
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The whistling sound is fairly straightforward but there are little details that are weird.
I noticed maybe 1 or 2 weeks ago that the car would make a whistling sound, not a high pitched one but a fairly middle-high sort of tone. It would make this sound when I put the car and drive and maybe just start to gas it but NOT all of the time. By the time I am at a regular speed it has gone.
But sometimes when I slow down the sound will return and go away when the car has come to a complete stop. But this is not a constant pattern. It is on and off. Only recently could I say it has become more frequent but even then I hesitate.
Also the sound seems to definitely be coming from under the hood possibly from the back of the car but I think front may be more likely.
I read briefly on a few car/car repair forums that it could be anything from an AC compressor going out, a vacuum leak, fan belt, bad water pump, among others. I tried turning the AC on, which I have kept off for pretty much the entirety of the Summer and I heard the sound only once when I resumed driving. BUT, when I revved, the engine seemed noticeably louder; almost like it was laboring though the car drove just fine.
One other thing. Before it sounded as if the origin of the whistle was coming from the passenger side of the car. Just as of today it sounded as though it originated from the driver's side. So I'm really confused now. The car seems to drive just fine and the engine the day before sounded good if not great. I'm hoping it is nothing related to the engine.
*Few Notes:The oil was changed in June. The tires were replaced recently. Though the sound started before this. I was however driving on a really bad passenger side tire for a while.There is a short on the panel that contains the left turn signal. The bad bulb was changed and I plan to find a new panel as soon as Monday.
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When I turn my headlights on idle the motor kills. At higher RPM engine still runs and lights will start to blink.
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I just went into my garage and noticed pieces of my rear coil spring on the ground. 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. Question is, do I have to replace both rear coil springs? They seem to sell them in pairs.
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I've got a Chevy Malibu with roughly 120K miles on it. It runs relatively well - when it starts - which is why I'm here, obviously. The battery is brand new with all the connections seeming to be great, so I doubt it's an electrical issue in that regard.
Furthermore, in cases where the car doesn't start, almost always it's on an incline where the gas tank is lower than the rest of the vehicle.
When it's either level or higher than the rest, it seems to start up fine, which has led me to wonder if it's something to do with the fuel intake (note that the car doesn't stall at all - it simply won't start in the adverse conditions I said here).
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I have an 06 F350 diesel, I had some work done on it that required the body to be raised on it. After I got it back the A/C didn't blow cold. I put it off for a while since I didn't need it. Anyways, the clutch isn't engaging so the compressor doesn't spin.
Things I have checked: Compressor rotates smoothly by hand. No blown fuses or bad relays (checked them all with meter). No results when jumpering the Hi/low press switches. Tried charging the system and the gage I got with the can goes to 80# and it maxed out. For the air gap on the clutch/shim idea, I tried pushing in on the clutch while it was running with a long extension to see if I could get it to engage, no luck
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Last year my a/c worked off and on. so far now its not working at all. Compressor isn't kicking on. i bought a bottle of the EZchill refrigerant to recharge the system. I took the relay out and added 12+ to the pin to kick on the compressor. Even with the compressor running the gauges are in the blue range which is the normal operating range. With the compressor running, the air is cold but when i stick the relay back in the compressor wont kick back on. I tested the relay and its fine. Also the compressor is rattling.
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First warm week of the year now my 2014 is blowing hot air! I played with all the appropriate buttons. Air on, air off, tried voice commands and no luck. From what I have read is could be the pressure switch or the compressor. The compressor is definitely not engaging and at 17,500 miles I would think there was still freon in it. I have not done a system diagnosis yet..not sure how.
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