Locks - Mercury - Doors - Milan :: Driver Side Lock Jammed / Roll Down Window To Get To Outside Latch
Feb 28, 2011
The driver side lock has jammed on my 2008 Mercury Milan Premier. Now I have to open my door by rolling down my window to get to the outside latch!
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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I have a 1996 buick lesabre and the windows on the driver side will not roll down. Front and back. When I push the front window button it clicks but nothing more and when I push the rear window switch nothing happens. I use this car to deliverer mail and it gets really hot inside.
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Ok so here's the deal.. A few weeks back I started to notice my passenger side window started to roll slower than the driver side, not by much but its pretty obvious enough every time you either roll the window down or up.. I made an appointment with a VW service center to have them look at it but they said they can't do anything about it .. Is this true ..? The service guy told me that their would be no way to make the motor of the window go any faster or slower.. However I'm back here again due to some clunking/ticking noise every time I roll my pax side window which develop during their first assessment.. So they ordered me a new window regulator which is getting put in now.. The main and initial problem as to why I made an appointment in the first place was for VW service center to fix my pax side window rolling a bit slowly. Now since they are replacing the regulator of my pax side window I asked the service guy whether this would fix the problem of the window rolling slower compare to the driver side and he bluntly said no.. "we cannot make the motor of the window go slower or faster".. Is their any way to fix the rate of the window to go up or down..?
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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I tried to vent my windows after I shut off the car yesterday, by using the key on the driver's door. The windows would not roll down. I know to do this remotely, it would require the VAG, but I thought this feature was enabled from the factory.
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I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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I just got done repairing the 6x9 speaker in the passenger side door and all went well, except the passenger window switch now blinks and will not roll down/up from the driver side controls! I've removed the panel and double checked all connections and no dice. The window rolls up and down fine using the passenger side control, but not the driver's side. The blinking pattern on the control is two blinks...pause...two blinks...pause...
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My passenger window won't roll up or down from driver's switch, I know it isn't the window itself bc it rolls up and down from the passenger door switch and if so how did you get it fixed?
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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So after 6 1/2 years, my original Panasonic battery died today morning. I used jump start to get to work and used the same method to take the car to Sears to replace with Diehard Platinum.
While driving back, after the battery replacement, I noticed that I couldn't use auto power window roll up or down on driver side (manual roll up/down worked). Other three windows won't even work. I checked the windows lock button and it wasn't in lock position.
I turned the ignition power off and turned on to ACC. Then I could able to roll driver side windows up/down in auto. However, other three windows remain nonoperational. I also noticed a small green light on the window is illuminated only for driver side.
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Just wanted to note a squeaky driver side window on roll down and a lagging defrost on the windshield.
2012 Passat TDI SE 4k miles.
Other than that really like the car so far.
They say they are ordering a new window guide or something to fix it.
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I just bought a used 1999 F-150 Supercab (V6) less than a month ago. As used, of course, I received no warranty of any kind. Yesterday, I found I could no longer roll down the driver's side power window. Whenever I push the button, it makes a clicking sound in the fuse box. The problem is, the fuse for the power windows covers both driver and passenger sides, but the passenger side works fine.
I did notice that there is a black plug called a Relay that affects the Auto Down power window feature. Since the driver's side is the only window with Auto Down, I'm hoping maybe that relay just needs replaced, and everything will magically work again??? I'm NOT a car/truck nut - I don't even know how to change my own oil.
I recently had a power window motor on my 1995 Thunderbird replaced. I'm hoping I don't have to do that already, just a month in to my F-150. But on my T-Bird, there was no clicking in the fuse box when I tried to window.
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Rolled it down yesterday. Won't roll back up. Without hitting any buttons, I hear a click in the door every 15 seconds or so. During these 15-20 seconds, when I hit the power window button, the door makes a clicking noise like it is trying to activate the motor, but nothing happens. Then it clicks, and for the next 15-20 seconds, no click, no noise, no matter how many times I hit the window switch. Then after the next click, I will hear a click again whenever i hit the button, and so on and so on, on and off every 15 seconds. I tried taking apart the switch box and checking the contacts. They were fine.
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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I have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
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Having issue with power windows in 2010 Prius. I just noticed today that I can't roll down the rear passenger side window from the driver door switch but all the other windows work, and the rear passenger window works as I can roll down from the door itself.
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I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
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Driver's door can't be opened. This 2005 Kia Optima EX has power door locks. It does NOT have rods that you can manually pull up to open it or push down to lock it. There are two ways to lock on unlock all the doors....with rocker switch on the driver's armrest or by pushing or pulling a small "button" located under the inside door latch to lock or unlock the door. When the driver's door gets stuck in the locked position I can hear the electric "actuator" inside the door panel as they lock or unlock the doors.
Using the "button" under the inside door handle doesn't work but if I rock the rocker switch from lock to unlock while my wife pulls on the outside door handle the door will eventually come open. The driver's lock/unlock button is operating incorrectly. When the rocker switch is pressed down to open the door, the button moves all the way back but then moves about about an eighth of an inch forward. The right side door buttons don't do this....they move all the way back or to the open door position and stay there. So, is the actuator in the door bad, is the rocker switch bad, or does= some electrical device, (a solenoid?) etc, bad that is not even located in the door?
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I have a 2003 Grand Marquis and recently the drivers window stopped working. The last time I recall trying to use it and getting some response was around a week ago to check and see if my window was frozen shut. When the headlights are on, all of my window controls light up except for the drivers window. When the button is depressed to raise the window I feel a slight vibration through the floor.
I'm a complete novice when it comes to car repair, but is this something I could potentially fix myself? Or how much would I be looking at to get this fixed otherwise?
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I just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
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