It's to a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII. I love the thing and try to keep it running. Anyhow, I hooked a borrowed computer to it and it said that it was not reading the sensor. Yes, I checked all of the fuses. I also played hell getting a new (well, used) Anti-Lock Brake Sensor. Discontinued Motorcraft Part # BRAB81. No change in the problem.
View 8 RepliesI need to know if it is safe to use an "Automatic battery float charger" I usually go away 30 to 60 days at a time, and inevitably when I came back the battery in my car is exhausted. Last year, to the advice of my mechanic I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. When I returned from my trip to Italy, I reconnected the cable, and the engine started with no problem, but the next day.....dead! The technician from AAA recommended an electric (to be plugged in) automatic battery float charger. (Car is always garaged) I'm getting ready to go away again, but I'm afraid to use the charger. Is this device safe or it can cause an electrical fire?
View 19 RepliesOften as I slow down and start turning a corner, mostly to the right, my 1998 Lincoln Town Car stalls. I have to pull off to the side of the road, put it in park and then restart it, which it does every time.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2014 IS 350 F Sport AWD. Can the traction control be truely turned off? You can push the Trac-off button but at 32 mph it is disabled and traction control is back in the game. The manual is of no dice and I've looked at numerous forums with no luck.
View 14 RepliesOn Friday, the traction control light turned on (with no sound) and stayed on while driving, stopped and parked. I brought it to my local dealership to check and see what was wrong. I was informed that the steering angle sensor circuit went bad. I asked if the car could drive fine without the repair and was told it would be okay. I also asked if this error light could be turned off and was informed that it was impossible. I went home and parked. Sunday night, I noticed that none of the interior lights would work.
View 1 RepliesI have a 11 f150 with a 5.0 can I Disable the traction control? All I can do now is turn it off on the dash and it kicks back in at 20mphish and it absolutely sucks in snow! Other than pulling a fuse do I have any other options?
View 14 RepliesLooking for an understandable procedure to turn off the VSC/traction control system for my vehicle?? I have a 6th gen 2008 Camry SE with the v6.
View 9 RepliesI'm looking for tricks that I could do changing the codes in my golf like turning traction control off and ESP off.
2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
I just replaced the steering rack today, things i noticed on the drive home:
I get the traction control light (i know its called something else, cant think of it) when i accelerate while turning. it'll cut the power to the throttle for a few seconds/ until i slow down or stop turning.
The light also comes on when i brake slightly hard. I am not anywhere close to locking up the brakes so i know its not the ABS. Whats going on?
I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
View 26 RepliesI've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
I have a 2007 ford edge that when you turn left or right it sounds like the traction control is activating and makes a ratcheting noise. I have replaced cv joints and wheel bearings.
View 4 RepliesI need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 RepliesMy 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
I have a 94 lincoln towncar and the air suspension is not turning on and I am dragging over the smallest bumps. I have checked the fuse on the main fuses but it is fine.
View 1 RepliesI have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
I am going to replace front coil spings on my 98 town car. Do I really need OTC 7045B tool to remove springs?
View 1 RepliesI turn my car on. I have no error lights on my dash. The heater and AC control unit lights up. I press the down arrow on my in-dash heater/AC control unit so I can get some cold air. I hear a hissing sound for about 2 seconds, but no air comes through the vents.
I get the same effect when trying to use the heater. Quick hissing sound, no air through vents.
Both stopped pushing air at the same time (when my ac stopped working, I tried to put out heat just to check)
I have checked al the fuses under my steering wheel and in the engine compartment using a circuit tester (w/light).
There is an AC Clutch relay fuse in the engine fuse box. Not sure if I should check that.
I'm in the process of changing the wheel bearing and took the brakes, disconnected the sway bar, and other large bolt but can't get the upper control arm disconnected because once the nut gets to a certain point, the ball joint starts spinning with it. Tried holding the bolt at the bottom with vice grips and it still turns. I'm thinking I might have to take off the whole A arm if I can't get this nut off.
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