Lincoln - Ls :: 2002 Running Rough After Warm Up
Aug 14, 2012
My 2002 lincoln LS run rough after warm up. Check engine light code is EGR , replaced EGR.
View 2 Replies
Aug 14, 2012
Advertisement
Lincoln - Towncar :: 2002 - Running Rough After Warm Up
My 2002 Lincoln runs rough after warm up.
View 1 RepliesLS / MKZ :: 2002 Lincoln Idles Rough On Cold Mornings But Runs Fine
The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
View 5 RepliesMetro :: Excessive Oil Consumption And Running Rough When Warm?
So I have 95 1 liter 5 speed, it runs fine and smooth first thing, but once it gets warm it idles rough, poor mpg 33-37 and eats a lot of oil have to say a quart every 300 miles does not leak oil, does not smoke, need new muff and resonater.
Check engine light is not on. can i hook it up to hand held code reader .? 95 is it obd 2?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Running Rough When Warm
History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
Hyundai - Azera :: 2013 - Running Rough / Inconsistent Performance And Sputtering Or Misfiring Until Warm
I have a 2013 Hyundai Azera with the 3L V6. I only use 93 octane gas (as recommended) and only use either Shell or Chevron. Each day, when I get in the car for the first time, I can count on it running rough and having inconsistent performance and some minor sputtering or misfiring (don't know the difference) until the car gets warm. Once it gets warm, all is well. It has 24k miles. Any thoughts on what may be the root cause? Should I change the fuel filter so soon? Does that matter being it gets better when it warms up?I change the oil religiously whenever the computer in the car tells me it is time to do so and use Mobil 1 synthetic.
View 3 RepliesCamry :: 2002 XLE - Cold When Running Down Highway But At A Stop - AC Gets Warm
This is a 2002 4 Cylinder Camry XLE.It gets cold when running down the highway, but at a stop , AC gets warm.I have replace the cabin filer. A couple of years ago, replaced the AC MAG Clutch Relay, when AC light was blinking.But now I feel the condenser in front of the radiator and it feels very hot, and the fans never seem to come on.I can see the 3 Fan relays, and not sure where the ECT sensor is located, or whether that would be the problem.If the fans arent coming on at all, you would think the car would overheat?
Tested the motor on one of the two, with direct 12 volts to it, and it did not run.Tested the disconnected cable that would be supplying voltage to that motor and it read 13+ volts. So I would think it was a bad motor, but I would like to see the voltage on that disconnected motor go to zero, but not sure if that happens, or when?Guy suggested at parts place that sells the Two Motors, Fans, and Shield all as one unit for less than $100, that maybe the motor burned out because it was running all the time.
WHen should the electric motors not be receiving power?I read somewhere that when car starts that both are on low speed, and Always on when AC is on. But do one or both ever turn off? If I pull this shroud out with the two motors and buy the replacement, I just don't want to have the motor blow out, because there is something making it run all of the time.
Lincoln :: Jittering Engine When It Is Warm
This is about my 1986 Lincoln Continental 5L with 93800 miles.
On Th Oct 8, I go in for my smog test. It failed. The timing has to be adjusted. I had to reschedule the test and the timing adjustment for the following Mon Oct 12.On Sat Oct 10, work needed to be done on my doors by a freelance experienced mechanic and at the end it killed my battery which I recharged.Mon Oct 12, I drive the car on the HWY 16 miles West bound then 19 miles East bound before I go for the timing adjustment and the smog re-test.While I was driving back East bound I noticed the engine sounding louder than usual yet I also thought it might a car driving by that was loud. I gave it little attention.At the exit ramp 19 miles later, when I accelerated after stopping, the car shook so much that it scared me. It was hesitating and jittering at the same time. It continued to do so while I reached the next stop over the bridge and while I drove up a hill all the way to the Smog Shop 4 miles farther.
After getting off the Freeway where I went up to 70mph I stayed between 35mph and 45mph to keep up with traffic on surface street until I reach the smog shop.There I revealed what the car just did and the mechanic advised that I get that fixed before I get it re-smogged. He was not interested in resolving the problem because it's an old car. Remembering my dad's best friend telling me several times that my dad never tuned the car since he had it in Dec 1995, I checked the car file and found that that was true and that only the spark plugs were changed in 1998 .That following Sat Oct 17, the freelance mechanic came and tuned the car with new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors, no timing adjustment though. Some electrical tape was wrapped over the hole on the vacuum hose nearest the distributor since he did not plan to bring a replacement in case there would have been an issue.
He claims the PCV valve to have passed his shaking check (Valve did pass the 1st smog test). He did a visual check of the fuel filter underneath the car in the back. The car ran smoothly after the job.On Mon Oct 19, before going back to the Smog Shop, I drive about 10 miles between 55mph and 65mph on the freeway and then 35mph to 45mph on surface street for about a half hour. All went well. I'm thinking the tune up fixed the hesitation/jittering/shaking problem. Once at the shop, upon adjusting the timing, the control module came apart; the plastic housing was broken in half (I have the broken part). The mechanic replaced it as well as the vacuum hose that was wrapped with tape. The car passed the Smog Test.Upon leaving the parking lot at the test station, I noticed the car hesitated/jittered just as it did last Monday, although somewhat subtle. I drove about 2 miles at 35mph, stopped and called the mechanic at the Smog station to tell him about it and he said that he had noticed the hesitation while it was running in the bay and he does not know what it could be since the car was tuned up and diplomatically indicated again that he was not interested in working on old cars.
I drove to the grocery store 2 miles away, spent about a half hour there and went home 6 miles away. The car had I guess cooled down some and therefor the jitter was subtle all the way home.In my view, and based on my experience on Mon Oct 12, it seems that that reaction (hesitation/jittering) occurs when the car reaches a certain temperature.I have not checked if the RPM jumps up or down whenever I accelerate when it jitters. One thing for sure is that when the jittering starts, it does it while the car is running and stationary, a bit more when you stop and go and more when you accelerate to a higher speed. On Mon Oct 12, I had the air on and turned it off shortly after the jittering was felt; that did not affect the intensity. On Mon Oct 19, I did not turn the air on at all.It seems that since the tune up, I can feel the car shift better and have never had issues with shifting anyways. Checked for slippage and that was negative.Fluids are always where they are to be. Motor oil and filter were changed on Oct 7.
Today, I've decided to seek a possible answer to my problem on the internet and remembered CarTalk.So far I'm finding out that it could be the Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor that needs cleaning, or an issue with the Temperature Sensor, the Balance Shaft, the Fuel Pressure Regulator, that a compression check may be needed. Keep in mind that I don't know if my car is even equipped with all that stuff since these findings are based on problem that people shared about their own cars. I must not forget to reveal that 2 of the old plugs smelled like gas and 2 were oily and very dirty (I know that the gasket on the left hand side needs to be replaced again).
LS / MKZ :: 2000 Lincoln Won't Warm Up / Not Reaching To Normal Operating Temp
Having issues with 00 lincoln ls not reaching normal operating temp.
View 1 RepliesVenture :: 2002 Running Rough Under Load
I have an 02 Venture WB Package with the 3400 engine. Within the last week is has started to run rough under load. This happens mainly when it is driving, but it does happen at idle when there is an incline or decline.
A little background of what happened. It has not wanted to start all of the time and i heard that it might be a dirty MAF. Well, the MAF is clean and still not wanted to start all or the time. During this time I noticed a plastic line going from the intake tube into the rear valve cover was loose, so I thought this was the problem. I have big hands and couldn't reach the rear vavle cover without rocking the engine forward. When I finally got the bolts out of the mounts that attache to the engine, the engine rocked back a little. I didn't think anything of this and ratchet strapped the engine forward so i could reach the valve cover.
I got the line back in and put the engine back where it is supposed to go and all was well. A few days after doing this my wife told me the van was running rough so i took it for a spin and she was correct. It is hard to describe the sound it makes, but it almost sounds like there is was too much stress on the engine when I have the gas peddle pressed. The van doesn't lose any power i don't think. The van sounds great if it is coasting.
It only does this when there is a load on the engine in drive or if it is idle or parked on an incline or decline. It goes into the shop on thursday the 30th, but I would rather not spend the cash if i can do it myself. I am totally lost with this one. I have a video of the sound when I am driving it, but the sound isn't too loud on the video.
Camry :: 2002 V6 LE 1MZ-FE - Rough Running At All Speeds
I have 144,000 miles on my V6. Just started to notice that the car is surging/hesitating at just about all speeds. It appears to idle fine and if you raise the RPM in neutral I can't detect a problem. If you place the trans in drive, apply the brake and raise the RPM to 1000 to 1500 the engine's RPM varies slightly and regularly, it not steady like all of my other cars. When you are at highway speeds you can feel the car slightly buck, if you take it out of overdrive it is more detectable due to higher RPM. I do not notice the problem when the engine is cold.
I have a hand-held scanner and I see no codes and there is no CEL illuminated. I changed the plugs with OEM plugs at 90,000 miles when I changed the timing belt. Changed the air filter probably 10,000 miles ago. Just cleaned the MAF sensor (after the problem started), no change. Took it to the dealer. They discovered broken motor mounts which I kind of suspected I had, but I didn't feel the symptom were mount related. They said that I was feeling torque converter lock-up. I told them that the range of speeds and gears that the problem presented itself that it was unlikely lock-up.
Alldata suggests that it is a fuel problem and Toyota has some TSB's for drivability. I'm discounting the TSB's because this just started recently. Any hints as to where to try first? EGR, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation damper, injectors, spark plug coil packs, ..... It gets too expensive to just remove and replace the sensors that deal with the fuels system. I have plenty of tools plus a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge.
07/21/2009 : While I was at work I added Seafoam to the gas, tank was half full.
On my way home from work I disconnected the EGR Position Sensor connector and the symptoms disappeared and the expected CEL illuminated. When I arrived home I went on Alldata and looked for an EGR system test. I found two, one for the position sensor and one for the EGR temperature sensor.
I had to run out to Sears to pickup a vacuum pump. I performed the tests below up to the point that I needed the pump. I also removed, inspected and reinstalled the EGR Position Sensor before I left for Sears. I did not notice the symptoms on the trip about 14 miles round trip. I'll see if I still have the problem on my way to work tomorrow.
Performed the on-vehicle inspection as listed on Alldata
EGR Position Sensor resistance: 2.6 ohms, in spec
EGR Position Sensor power: 5.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with no vacuum applied: 1.0v, in spec
EGR Position Sensor output with 5.1 in Hg vacuum applied: 4.0v, in spec
07/22/2009 : Problem seems to have gone away, no bucking or hesitation. Maybe the connector contacts were dirty on the position sensor. Will update if the symptoms return.
09/07/2009 : Noticed that I am getting 2 miles per gallon more than before I found the problem.
Ford - Explorer :: 2002 4L V6 Is Running Rough
My 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
View 1 RepliesCamry :: 2002 V6 SE Running Rough And Stalls At Idle
My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
Ford - Windstar :: 2002 - Rough Running While Moving
I have a 2002 Ford Windstar. Just replaced a TPS, went to town was coming back home, and all of a sudden it started to spit and sputter while in gear. But, in neutral she runs alright. I use mid-grade gas. I put in two cans of Seafoam in the tank. Wrecker operator smelled the exhaust and told me the it was too rich. My question is and this sounds stupid, could the previous owner. Had never replaced the fuel filter or if they did replaced it, that it was installed backwards. I drove it almost 20 miles before it died. I figured that the fuel in the gas line emptied and it refuse to go. And since it only runs good without strain on the engine...
View 7 RepliesSC/SL/SW :: 2002 Saturn SL1 Won't Start - Running Rough And High Idle
Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Running Rough Then Stalled After Starting
So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - Running Rough Like Misfiring
My ranger just started running very rough. Like misfiring, but I think it may be the fuel pump. It starts and drives...but it surges then drives normal, as if fuel is being fed, then starved, then force fed etc. My father asked if I had trouble starting it and to be honest in the last 6 months it was a little harder to start on several occasions. On a few occasions it required more cranking. But that was only a few times.
I tried putting in a fuel injector cleaner and 93 octane gas but it is still running even rougher now. I changed out the fuel filter under the rail about a year ago (maybe 8000 miles ago at most). My father thinks the fuel pump is shot and he laughed because his went on his expedition and he said it is inside the fuel tank and there is no way to get at it without dropping the tank. Is that true? 2002 ranger xl 4cyl
Ford - Explorer :: 2002 V8 - Engine Running Rough - Seems Missing?
On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Running Very Rough And ABS Light Continuously Flash
I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
Passat (B5) :: 2002 Running Rough And Yellow Engine Light Blinking Then Turned Off
Drove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 V8 Running Rough - Codes PO353 And PO171
2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
View 1 Replies