I have replaced all the parts i can think of and yet my car will just die anywhere when the temperature gets above about 80. If i drive it for any length of time when i restart it, it sounds like a very large fan is starting and shudders for a minute.
View 6 RepliesMom's 2002 Lincoln Continental has 80,000 miles. Recently she's noticed that after she exits the vehicle the brake lights will come on by themselves and stay on until it drains the battery. It has only done that once in her garage. It baffled us as to why her brand new battery was dead. We charged it and she drove it and it was fine. Where she works, she can see her car from her desk. Her brake lights just came on by themselves. How she remedies this is by going out and tap once on the brake pedal and light goes out and stays out. She only seems to notice it coming on right after she parks and gets out. Then, like I said, she can tap the brake pedal and make light go out and stay out.
View 4 RepliesThe air starts out very cold but after a few minutes it warms up. A few minutes later it is cold again but then it warms up. This cycle repeats itself throughout the drive.
View 1 RepliesThe climate control in my 1995 lincoln continental will stop working on an intermittent basis but only in the summer. It usually seems to happen on very hot days after running a few errands. It only lasts 2-15 minutes and then operates normally for days or weeks. This has been happening for years. Nothing shows up on the mechanic's computer as respects diagnostic codes.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2000 Lincoln Continental and the other day it started making a horrible grinding/rubbing noise as soon as the engine started. I took it to my mechanic (been going to him for 6 years) and he said it was the Air Conditioner Compressor (specifically the clutch) was causing the noise and needed to be replaced.
If I remember correctly (I do not have any kind of documentation in front of me), the AC unit is at the bottom of the engine... Which could cause some issues. My question is, how easy/difficult is this to fix myself?
My '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
My 2011 Lincoln MKT hesitates after a full stop...randomly. After I apply the gas she will hesitate, as if she can't find the right gear, RPM's go out of sight then there's a sudden and hard jerk and away we go! The weather is not a factor...happens anytime anywhere. The cruise control will shut off randomly as well. At times the warning buzzer and light flash on the windscreen that we are about to crash...and there are no vehicles in the way.
It has been to the dealership 4 times in the past 3 months for this and they can't find anything wrong... (Ford does not have a bulletin on this problem either. We've had the car since Feb. 2011 - it has 20,000 miles on it now. Regular maintenance is done as scheduled.)
I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
View 4 RepliesWhen stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
I have a 2007 f150 with the 5.4 in it and today I was driving it and my tempreture gauge randomly shot to cold and check engine light came on. Also can't even find the dam radiator cap due to too much plastic!!!
View 2 RepliesIt was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
View 9 Repliesmy friend has a 1999 Lincoln town car, and it has about 1/2 qt. of oil too much,.what can i do and how? what are the repercussions, and can i do it myself.
View 8 RepliesLast night, my son called and said he killed my car. After I established he meant that the triangle of death was displayed, I went out and rescued him. Car shudders on take off, there is an unnatural whine while driving, and then halfway up any long hill there is no connection between the IC motor and the wheels. VSC light comes on, check engine light, not sure what else. Turn the car off, wait 20 seconds, it goes until the next long hill, then repeat. This morning, I drove to the dealers, only had this happen 4 times with one in a busy street where everyone thinks they are too smart and good looking to go the speed limit.
Late in the day, I get a call that the tranny was bad and there is a inverter code and several misfires. I noticed that the traction battery charge was increasing.
The horn on my Lincoln ls is not working. I have checked horn switch
View 2 RepliesJust finished replacing all 4 struts this morning. Next complaint on her list:
Car Shudders / Vibrates when AC is on and in Gear (seems OK in Park). It doesn't seem to Idle up when the compressor engages......everything works fine......just vibrates a lot more than it used to.
2009 Camry 4Cyl. This is my 5th Toyota and it is the biggest POS compared to all my others. Been very disappointed in this ride.
95 350 Tbi does well idling in park and on the highway but at idle speeds it shudders. And if i slow down to make a stop it shudders til i get my speed back up or floor it. It have new plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, TPS, IAC, new throttle body gasket, new vacuum lines. What else could it be?
View 1 RepliesR32 with 97,000 on it. UM tune. Engine shakes/shudders a lot, no CEL. Its hard to get into gear. I bought DLI motor mounts hoping that the problem is just broken motor mounts.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 BMW 330i with 218,000 miles on it. When I am driving it and am slowing down and take it out of gear sometimes the car dips down to 400 or 500 rpm and the car shudders ,not all the time, but often and then bounces back up to 700 or so where the idle should be. I've had the throttle sensor and throttle body replaced. I also had the CATs replaced recently due to the sensor saying they were basically plugged, which I thought might be the problem with the throttle, but didn't cure it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 VW Passat TDI which has a 5 speed stick (they all did). Yes, it's really old but it runs great and gets 45 mpg. However, the model is probably not relevant to this problem. My question has to do with clutch performance. When the car is cold (and it's cold outside), the car sometimes shudders starting out in first gear for a couple minutes. I have tried to be extra careful letting out the clutch in these circumstances. Sometimes that works, but it doesn't eliminate the problem. After about 5 minutes or so the clutch starts working well as it usually does.
View 10 RepliesMy Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
View 3 Replies