Lexus - Rx300 :: 2000 - Steering Rack Seeping?
Oct 29, 2011
I have a 2000 lexus rx300. the steering rack was replaced 2yrs/20k ago. now, there is very slight seeping of fluid. only noticeable on on the boot and never drips onto the floor. i took it back to the dealer and they said that is normal and after 2yrs it's in very good shape. i question why if the seals are working properly then should i see this?
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2000 Lexus RX300 - door locks/acutators... the locks open and close perfectly with the master driver actuator lock unlock button or with the the remote IF the temp is 70 degrees or below. If the temp is above 70 degrees the the actuators for all four doors will NOT all lock..1-4 do sometimes....they vary from door to door, day to day , including the driver driver door. Actators are expensive. Because they do work when cooler it tells me they do work. Why not when warm? what do I need to do? This is my mystery
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Currently I own a 2000 Lexus RX 300. I just had an oil change but there is a noise by the tires only when I accelerate. When I put my foot on the brakes it stops. I am at a loss. Where would the best place to ask and get the work done.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
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2000... I have a code P0171 bank 1 too lean. My question is does this exclude anything that will effect both banks? If it was MAF sensor or fuel filter would it set code and say banks 1 and 2 running too lean? In which MAF sensor ohms out correctly. I cannot view fuel trim files. I have looked for a vacuum leak with no luck. I got some cigars to try to smoke it to see if there is any vacuum leaks. Trying to narrowing what i need to checks.
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Here are my questions.
1. What can cause repeated steering rack failures, which I am trying to dianose?
2. I found yellow spots in the snow that would come from the center of the vehicle (as opposed to near the wheels), could this be from the coolant system?
If you got that far, here is the relevant history. My wife drives my 2000 Jetta, its a nice car with repeated problems. One such problem is with the steering rack. 1. The steering rack failed in 2006, it was an expensive fix. It was leaking for a while, but I just topped off the fluid every couple of weeks. 2. Within a year the steering rack failed again, it was still under warranty. 3. 2 years later, the rack failed for a third time. I wrangled with the shop and they agreed to reduce my price for the fix even though the part was no longer under warranty. They had the car for a week trying to diagnose the problem, they said they found nothing out of the ordinary. I took the car to another mechanic a week later for some other issue, and he saw leaking from the fill plug--back to the dealer again. They said they cleaned the washers around the plug to fix the problem. No problems since then. Now its almost two years later and I have found a couple yellow spots in the snow, although near the center of the car and not near the wheels. This makes me think it may actually be a coolant leak, but I don't know right now.
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Our 2000 Subaru Outback has just over 200k. We want a vehicle that is safe, but do not want to put a lot of money into this. At the last service the dealership said the left ball joint boot and power steering rack boots need to be replaced and the rear differential bushings are broken or loose. All of this would be > $1000 to repair. They said that the ball joint could get dirty and fail catastrophically and be a safety issue. Is that right or will the steering start to feel rough beforehand? Can we drive it safely?
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I was replacing the oil in the transfer case and came across this under the passenger side. Power steering rack seems to be leaking through the rubber boot, but I have not noticed anything on the garage floor in recent months...
Can the boot itself be replaced? I hate to think the whole system needs to be replaced.
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Have noticed some pink fluid seeping around top of radiator, which has created a bit of a mess in the engine bay. Is this indicative of a radiator leak? I don't see any visible cracks, however not much of the radiator is viewable. If replacement is necessary, what OEM alternates are recommended? car is running fine and not overheating. It's an '02 sc430 with 171K miles.
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The VSC light came on at approximately 62000 miles. Took it too a mechanic who put it on computer, found gas cap loose, and reconnected hose under air filter however no code shows on the computer for a fix. The VSC light still remains on. Tried all the internet fixes; pulling fuse & disconnecting battery cable. The light goes out but as soon as I move the car it comes back on. Is there anything I can do to avoid a large dollar visit to the Lexus dealer since there are no driving or stopping symptoms with the car.
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My 1999 lexus rx300 first threw a P1135 following a P0125, I tested the sensor and it was open at the heater circuit then then I was waiting the new part in the mail and during that time it kept running rough and then it threw a P0300, P0301, P0305, P0303. I was thinking that the PCM cannot monitor A/F ratio without the sensor so maybe the injector base pulse width was good enough. The misfire is are on bank 1, same as the bank 1 A/F sensor.
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We have a '99 Lexus RX300 with 174,000 miles (the engine has 130,000). The check engine light has been on for 2 years. The first mechanic found it was an O2 sensor and said that we didn't need to really do anything as long as the car was running good. So we didn't. Apparently a new code appears when running a diagnostic for the evap. sensor or vapor canister...is that right??? We had the evap sensor fixed..or so we thought and than tried to have the vapor canister worked on but the mechanic said the light came on.
Recently, the car has started lurching or losing power when it's warmed up and when it's accelerating. So, we took it to the Lexus dealership and 2 things were suggested
1) the vapor canister had been installed incorrectly and
2) sounds like the transmission is going.
So I have 2 questions, I think,
1) What is going on with the check engine light?
2) Does this sound like the transmission is going?
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 with 235,000 miles. I have been having a challenge with the "check engine" light coming on. I have taken it to a reputable mechanic several times. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, and the light went out. I had an emissions inspection, and the light came back on during the test, but it still passed, and the inspection report commented that there was a communication error, but no other problems. Every time the light comes on my mechanic puts his testing equipment on and finds no problems. I am trying to sell the car, but I am concerned that any potential buyer is going to look a the high miles and the check engine light and get scared off. The car is in great condition and looks like a very well taken care of car.
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I just bought a 2005 RX300. It has a DVD in the glove compartment, which is not originally from Lexus, connected with the navigation screen.
When I turn it on, it starts playing the disc. But I cant find how to activate it on the navigation screen. I don't get any audio as well.
Tried the MD1 button, but it plays my flash drive, which is also in the glove compartment. Also tried CD button in different ways.
I know it is individual depending on how they install these, but what to try? There is also an remote for the DVD, but also doesn't seem to do anything about getting the audio and video on the screen.
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Run my lexus around in traffic or up hills the temp gauge goes into the red, leave it running in the driveway it overheats and yes the fans work using the a/c so i know its not the fan motors the wires from both the fans go into a fan computer in the middle of the fans near the top of the radiator.....searched all over for a fan temp switch does it have one?
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2002 Lexus Rx300. The recent problem that I have been having is that various times when I go to accelerate my car from a stop position, i.e. stop sign, red light, my car will act as if something is getting stuck at the front right wheel pulling my car to the right and not allowing me to accelerate. It will make a grinding sounding noise. I have to usually lift my foot off the accelerator, straighten out the wheel and then press the gas again for the car to move. Sometimes the action it strong enough it causes the 'Slip Indicator' light to come up on my dash. It will happen at almost every stop light so driving in the city it gets rather annoying. At long distances on highways everything is fine because I'm not in a stop and go situation. My mechanic can't seem to figure out what the problem is so nothing has been fixed about it.
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After tune-up to my 2000 RX300 (105k miles), car came back with clicking noise under dash... took back to repair shop they agreed sounds like morse code, or like rain falling. They examined under hood and said they don't know source, but that the work they did couldn't be causing it. They said could be drive belt and/or pulleys, or clutch on AC, or alternator bearings... that it doesn't look like any major issue. I brought the car in for a tune up and it came out with this annoying noise. Do I keep pushing them to figure it out what the did and correct it? Or do I trust them that additional work/expense needs to be made? What could the noise it be? It appears spread across the whole dash, but under the hood just sounds like a consistent clicking noise near the belts.
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I have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. Last year I had new brakes and I think the rotors were worked on. I also got new tires on all 4 wheels. I have noticed a shake when I brake, mostly from high speeds. I just had the tires rotated and the shake is still there.
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Mine is leaking badly from both tie rod ends. I am guessing the seals got nicked up when the tie rods were replaced. Is there anyway to replace just the seals? I would really like to avoid replacing the rack.
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My main concern with this replacement job( I am not doing it), is that the R rack is different that the standard golf rack. is that so?
I have a very good friend and excellent mechanic who said "...it's the part number it gives me." which makes me nervous. I don't want a "less sporty" steering feel.
so are the racks the same? what part number it should be I am having a hard time finding it.
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Is that unusual?
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