Lexus - Gs400 :: 1998 - Starting With The Radio Cutting In And Out
Aug 30, 2016
I currently own a 1998 Lexus GS400 that is having issues starting. it'll start right up after sitting for a period of time, 30 min or more. Stalled out last night almost home, started right up this morning. Drove to work, wouldn't start back up 5 minutes later, but again started right up an hour later. It started last night with the radio cutting in and out, then radio wouldn't turn on at all. I noticed the interior lights getting kinda dim as well. What it might be?
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I'm having an intermittent problem with my radio. I have an '05 GX with Nav and I have installed the VAIS tech SLS. Everything works fine with the radio, but sometimes when I start the car the radio is turned off, even though the radio was left on when the truck was turned off. This is an intermittent problem and is possibly related to the VAIS unit. Is this a sign of a larger future problem with the Nav unit?
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I have a 2014.5 Camry. About once every month or two, when I cut the car off, the radio lights flicker for a few seconds then stops. The lights seem to flicker long enough for all of the electronics and modules to power down. I have taken it to the dealer, but since the problem cannot be duplicated, nothing has been done. Just trying to figure out what may be the cause before the car goes out of warranty.
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In my 03 F-350 my radio is cutting on and off . Have figured out problem is in dash cluster. Which wire do I use to run radio to battery and bypass the cluster???
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I recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
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I got the ivic system installed in my car today and I am pleased thus far with the little bit that I have played with it. The only problem that I have is my back up camera is not cutting on. Why?
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I have a 98 gmc k 1500 350 5.7 . Was having an issue with the truck bucking it would die very briefly thought maybe bad gas. Added treatment and few days later it was doing the same this time back fire check engine lite came on checked code mass air and cam position sensor.
I pulled cap and when I was about to take rotor button out I noticed play I could actually push down on it. I pulled distributor and confirmed the play I replaced new complete distributor and yes I forgot to mark position so line tdc #1 compression stroke installed distributor timing was off.
But running rough so I re adjusted timing now it just cranks I have played with the timing alot so I tested the coil had some strange ohm readings ( high quality meter) and have voltage 12 vdc at coil and module replaced coil today still same thing I have fuel and 60 psi of fuel pressure and it holds with key off and it's not the pass lock security does not flash. Fuel pressure regulator can't be leaking.
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Just curious on what it could be. I checked all fuses I did find some blown ones but I replaced them then the car worked and now it not cranking again. I checked the fuses I found another bad one i replaced it but still not cranking. All lights turn on, radio turns on. The fuses were check engine slots.
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What were the stock radio options for the Passat?
My 98 came with a JVC aftermarket; don't like the look. I consider putting a stock radio back in.
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I get frustrated when I start my car and the radio volume is really loud from my previous driving experience. When I shutdown my 2012 prius 3 with the radio volume turned up loud it seems to remember the volume level. I do not have volume control until 4 seconds after I start it.
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Our 98 Corolla has recently become hard to start. Usually two or three starting attempts for a few seconds before starts and then idles roughly for a few seconds, then drives fine like it always has. Has 51k miles, oil changed regularly, 100k-mile tuneup/spark plug replacement not yet reached (maybe another 18 years, in 2034? Anyway, has performed great always until recently no longer starts immediately. Replaced battery, no change. Have BlueTooth OBD scan tool connects to Android phone - cool display, no codes, what to check, do next?
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I have a 1998 Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 157K on it. A month ago changed the EGR valve and replaced the transmission oil. Two days ago, went for shopping, parked the van. Came back and did not start (no crank, nothing). Called AAA, checked for battery, which was good. Radio, wiper, lights work. Had to tow to the shop. The mechanic checked for all possible problems. Said everything (Fuse, battery, starter motor, alternator) is good. He is clueless. Told him to check the ignition switch (may be worn out). He says it doesn't seem so.
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic with 166Kmiles that is new to me. For about 1.5 months I had no issues but about a month ago I was driving and noticed something odd. If I tapped the brake, the lights would dim and the radio would cut out. Not every time but frequently. As I was coasting into my parking spot, I pushed the power window button to close the window and the car stalled. After that I started having hit and miss troubles getting the engine to crank. Either it would crank or there was NO power (i.e. no dashboard lights, radio, etc.) at all. Jump starting would work but I had to get the cables just so. Last week it gave up occasionally starting. I can still jump start but again the cables have to attached just so. Once started the car will run but I have to keep it above idle or it might stall. I replaced the battery to no avail. What is my next step in solving this electrical system problem?
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My mother has the code to the radio, but when she was entering it she did it wrong. It now says "2 SAFE" or something similar and won't allow any other info entry. We even disconnected the power again and it still says the same thing. How do yo uget it baack to the point of allowing the 4 digit code to be entered?
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I drive a 98 Subaru Forester with ~190,000 miles on it. This car is incredibly reliable and excluding the following incident I have never had a problem with it. The other day I went out to run some errands and when I came out of the store my car wouldn't start. I turned the key and nothing happened. There was no sound from the engine or starter whatsoever, but the radio, air, etc. came on. It had started perfectly fine just an hour earlier that day. I had a friend and with a few strikes from a hammer on the starter the car fired right up so that appears to have been the problem. It's been a few days now and it has started right up every time I've turned the key since. Was this incident just a fluke? Is this what they call a "dead spot" in the starter? Should I replace it or can I get away with just carrying a hammer and push starting if worse comes to worst?
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I jumped in my car, started her up, and drove the 10 miles or so to meet up with her on the other side of town. And hour and a half later, I jumped back in my car and tried to turn her over....and nothing happened. I got the normal lights on the dash but no sounds at all - not even the usual "click".
I tried a couple more times before I went back inside and retrieved my brother-in-law, who is a retired truck mechanic, and asked him to take a look at it. He found nothing wrong and even he couldn't get it to start up.
I finally relented and called AAA to tow me to my fav mechanic. Before the dispatcher sent someone out, she offered to run through some troubleshooting stuff with me. She tells me, "Jump in, make sure the car is in park and your foot is on the brake, and give it one more try." And guess what? YES! THE CAR STARTED! It wasn't the normal start - it was silent for about three seconds before it finally roared to life - but at least it started.
So, I rush to my mechanic's place and ask them to give it a check over and make sure everything is okay. (I'm heading up to the high desert tomorrow and don't want to get stuck out there.) They came back a couple hours later saying everything looked fine - the battery, starter, and alternator were all fine. The advised me to keep an eye on it and come back when it "finally dies".
In the past year, I've replaced the fuel pump, battery, tie rods, and a boot. The alternator was replaced about 5 years ago and I've never had the starter worked on.
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I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
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I just purchased a 98 Passat 1.8t with 100k and noticed when I let it warm up for more than 10 minutes I start to get white smoke from the tailpipe and the ground underneath the pipe is wet. I can't figure out if its a head gasket because my coolant hasn't gone down too much or if its a problem with the turbo.
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Mine is starting to leak. Watched a couple vids, they lifted the motor passenger side with a hoist and removed the bracket and mount, dogbones etc. That bracket had two bolts on one side and three on the other. They didn't unhook the exhaust or lower the frame either.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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