1998 Lexus LS400, ~130k miles, town driving, auto shift.~35mph develops fine vibration with accompanying hum. Both increase when speed up. Hum develops a harmonic and shaking increases to almost a shutter.decreases or stops when release accelerator.
View 3 RepliesI love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
View 6 RepliesI have a problem with my 2006 Sante Fe. When driving (at all speeds) my SF has developed a "cyclical", repetitive whining sound in the engine compartment that directly corresponds with the speed of the car. The "revolutions" of the sound are slow at slow speeds and very high pitched and fast at high speeds.
It happens at all speeds, with or without throttle being applied. I do NOT hear it when the car is in park or in neutral and I rev the engine so it has something to do with the rotations of the wheels/axles/drive shaft/gears or something that rotates in synch with how fast the car is going. I still hear it when coasting.
We recently put on new tires a few months back and I thought maybe it was just the sound of the new tread on the road but now I am almost positive this sound is coming from somewhere in the engine compartment. It is possible that it is coming from under the car but the problem is a can't confirm that because I only hear the sound when the car is moving. So far, it's just an annoying sound, it does not affect the performance of the car.
My parents have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer, 100,845 miles. They change oil like a religion. It has under the hood ticking that increases and decreases with RPM. The ticking (tickity-tickity) sounds like when there is low oil. People have said,"You better put oil in there..."The oil is full. I can't tell if the sound is coming from inside the engine, or if something on the engine might be loose that is causing the ticking as the engine RPM changes. From what I can remember from auto shop in the 80's...it kind of sounds like valves/lifters.
Also, it has a strange road noise that I think is coming from the tires. It sounds and sort of feels like riding on knobby off road tires. I can put it in neutral and turn off the engine, and the noise remains and decreases as the speed does, so it is not from the engine.
This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
View 10 Replies2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
I have a Toyota Corolla Altis Cruisetronic Automatic transmission. Car has done only 4000 km and is 8 months old.
Problem I am having is that when I release the accelerator pedal say while driving at 60 kph, the car does not freely coast but decelerates with a drag and tries to slow down to a stop. The drag is more serious with the a/c on. It does not like to remain in high gear. Previous auto transmission Corrolla's I have driven never gave me this kind of problem.
I'm still learning how to do P&G, it's my first hybrid. When I release the accelerator pedal completely, I see there's a small blue bar in the charge area. I know it in charging stage but does this slow down the car? I confuse if my car is slowed down by this or the wind resistance.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Mazda 5 and over the past few days, I notice the acceleration seems slightly sluggish, especially on inclines. Then last night I had a problem where I was driving and whenever I took my foot off the accelerator, the car would stop (rather than gradually slowing). And when I put my foot back on the accelerator, the car jerked forward before finding the right speed. I parked and after work, it drove just fine. Drove fine this morning also. The shop says I need a new solenoid purge valve, but after reading about that valve, I don't understand how it could cause my problem. The car didn't stall whom it stopped, it just stopped moving forward.
View 4 RepliesI recently acquired a 1984 AMC Eagle and I'm having trouble getting it to start. It turns over but the engine stops running unless the accelerator is kept depressed. Also, the car stalled at a light the one time I did get it running, so I'm thinking that there are some issues with the idle or with the carburetor maybe. I live in Colorado and I gather that the idle on these vehicles needed to get adjusted for the altitude, but I assume this has been done already as it has always been a Colorado car and has 125K miles on it. The gas is low, so possibly it might be something as simple as a gas supply issue, but judging by what other owners have posted online, it seems that this stalling problem is common with the Eagle so I think it probably is something more involved.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 4.6L... There is a slight hissing sound under the dash on the drivers side when you lightly press the accelerator and then stops. No matter what speed you are going as soon as you apply the accelerator it hisses then stops. There is also the same hissing , only louder when the engine is cut off. It hisses for about 3 seconds. What could be causing this. It has been idling rough since the hissing started. The check engine light is on and showing P0420 and P0430 codes . The cats were replaced with resonators so I believe that is the reason for the codes.
View 2 RepliesI've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
I have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Mustang convertible 3.8. Shakes when its started at an idle and as u push the accelerator, the shaking gets worse, in park, neutral, drive, doesn't matter. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil, torque convertor. I took it to precision auto tune and they said everything checked out computer wise but there is deffinately something wrong. Car shakes so bad its insane.
View 2 RepliesI have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
View 2 RepliesMy truck is vibrating and shaking when you go over 30. but occasionally stops. I replaced the whole rear end, rear shocks, rear brakes, rear drive shaft U- joints, rebalanced the rear tires( they needed that). at least that fixed the noise (grinding) from the rear end is gone but it is still vibrating.. Over $700 in it this week. at least i did the repairs myself and saved a bunch of money. But i am now stumped... I dont know it if is front end issues, transfer case issues, transmission issues....
View 4 RepliesMy car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
View 1 Replies2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 RepliesI have noticed that the passenger seat has a vibration that can not be felt anywhere else in the truck. You can actually see/feel it from the drivers seat when no one is sitting in it. However, you can not feel this vibration through the steering wheel, gas peddle, door panels, etc. It increases with speed with is present at low and high speeds. My thought is that perhaps the seat is loose? When sitting in it it feels like the back right wheel is out of balance but I know it isn't (recent road force balance and feeling in all other seats confirms this). Could it be I just need to tighten the seat/tracks?
View 4 RepliesHad a slight shutter or jerking feeling in their LS, sort of like the rotors are warped, when they slow to a stop from 40+ MPH? I just cannot make the car stop smoothly no matter the amount of brake pressure I apply.
I can 100% eliminated the issue if I shift the car into neutral before I slow down. So it has to be the the transmission not downshifting smoothly. Done it from day one. I even replaced my rotors and brakes so I know that isn't it.
My LS 460 has a pulsing wheel/front end noise that seems to increase as the speed increases from 5 mph to about 30mph and then fades out. I brought it in for service and they test drove it twice with 1 and then 2 service techs. They could hear the noise and said to me that they think it is cupping on the tires. The tires are in great condition inside to outside.Tires have only 14000 K. I switched the back to the front. The same dut-dut-dut-dut sound increases as the speed increases to about 30mph.
I believe that the noise is something more serious. I noticed that when the suspension compresses over a high point in the road at say 20mph the sound will stop during the time the car is comming of the high point in the road. Could this be a bearing/suspention- or something with the breaking motor because I also have been using the break hold feature for several months and not sure if that could cause harm. Also I do hear more grind or grumbling when turning the wheel to the left at low speed then when turning to the right.