Lexus :: 2006 - Shudder Going Form 1st And 2nd When Warmed Up?
Jun 11, 2015
I have a 2006 Lexus is250 that is approaching 300k miles. After driving for about 20 minutes, the car will shudder when going from first to second at a low acceleration when I'm in stop and go traffic. The engine also stalls when I shift into reverse when parallel parking after an extended ride or when coming to a stop while in snow mode. I had the problem for a few months when I got the code "P2757 Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off," after a stall. I got a full transmission rebuild but it didn't seem to fix the problem. I was told it is a computer issue by the transmission shop. Took it to a Lexus dealership, they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
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My '01 F-150 2WD, XLT has a foghorn sound coming from the left front side at idle after the 4.6L is warmed up. It goes away with an increase in engine RPM and is unnoticeable at hwy speeds. I have no codes (I have checked w/ my code reader). The service desk guy at the stealer said it is my abs pump going bad (I figured it was a pump of some sort, my 55 packard PS makes the same noise when almost empty-the system leaks). It also appears this is a stealer only part, and going to cost 6 or 7 benjamins to buy and probably another 5 benjamins too fix.
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About 6 months ago I bought a '08 GS 350 CPO. Love the car but after a month or two of ownership, on light acceleration 3rd and 4th gears will shudder. The whole car will buck and shake, but if I give it more gas it will smooth out. Doesn't seem to be the engine, I suspect more the transmission. Of course I took it in and they "could not reproduce the problem"... Is this just a normal characteristic of the car?
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I have a 2007 Sonata with 99,000 miles on it. Around 4,000 miles ago I started getting a creaking noise in rear when I would slow down to a stop & then start again.
I have to drive the car for 15-20 minutes before the creaking starts. Once it starts it will happen for the entire ride. If I don't use the car for a couple of hours & then start it up again the noise goes away & doesn't return until I drive for 15-20 minutes.
After a 20 minute ride when I come to a stop the creaking happens each time you feather the breaks to a stop. The noise also occurs when you release the breaks when accelerating after stopping. It seams to coincide when the weight shifts.
Also I think I noticed that the noise is less pronounced when it is raining out.
I brought it to my local oil change guy for a state inspection & asked him to check the brakes & suspension. He said the suspension looked fine & the brakes were OK but the rotor had a hot spot that might be causing the noise. So, since the noise was driving me crazy I had the rear brakes done.
This didn't impact the noise at all. I brought it back to the same shop & spoke to the owner. They put the car on the lift & said that the rear suspension looked good & I could use rear shocks. So they replaced the shocks. This didn't impact the noise at all.
I drove it to my local Hyundai dealer. I drove it until the noise started occurring. They put it on the lift & found a loose bolt on the camber? and did an alignment. This didn't impact the noise at all.
I brought it back to the Hyundai dealer. They put it on the lift & couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then drove it for 20-25 minutes until the noise occurred & brought it back. Their mechanic drove in the car and heard the noise. We stopped in their lot and he crawled under the back of the car (not on the lift) had me rock the car up & down. He then said that the problem was the left rear upper control arm assembly. He said that he saw this at least one time on another Sonata.
What could cause a rear "suspension noise" that only occurs after you drive the car for 15-20 minutes? Also, the noise is more pronounced if you feather the brakes when you stop as opposed to just jamming them once to stop.
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I have a 2013 GS 350 and I think the display is kind of wasted space most of the time. The default view is to show the map which is in terrible resolution and the navigation is too cumbersome to be useful. When I need navigation I use google maps which obeys voice commands, is always up to date and has traffic flow information.
Is there a way to hack the nav screen to be more useful? Perhaps display items from the phone? Maybe some other use while driving?
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I have a 2006 f350 with 75k on it, has a mild sct towing tune, and 4' turbo abck dual exhaust. It recently started blowing whiteish smoke, so i did an EGR cooler and valve delete kit, and it stoppe dsmoking for a while.. coinsidence?
It has recently started again, at idle there is no smoke, and taking off slow from a stop, it doesnt ALWAYS smoke. but leaving a dead stop, if i get right into it, it billows whiteish smoke, and if im cruising, romp on it, let off it, then get on it again it will smoke.
Ive been told fuel pressure, injectors, turbo seal etc. when i had the down pipe off, no sticky black residue was present, so im counting out turbo seal (for now). I purchased the blue spring upgrade for fuel pressure, because i was told its not getting the right amount of fuel, once i get that ill throw it in and see if it fixes it.
whats yall's opinion? is it worth have it checked for a failed injector? as i said, no EGR in the truck, no loss of coolant either, oil is clean. It does seem a little sluggish at times off the line now as well.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
(My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...).
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I own a 2007 Sonata 2.4l GLS with 120,500miles on it. In the past three weeks (recently after oil change) its developed a clunking noise only when warmed up (about 40 seconds). I purchased this car beginning of August and it had no noise then. I changed the oil with 10w30 castrol hm oil (the dealer I bought it from stated they put in same viscosity although oil cap reads 5w20 manual says 5w30 is acceptable) . Ive had it checked out by mechanics who have no clue what it is and want to tear down the engine. The noise goes away if it revs a bit higher that 1200rpm and then cones back worse when revving down until idle where its not as bad again. I've changed spark plugs (they were factory anyways) and ran premium fuel and even bought a Hyundai filter afterwards hoping it would work but to no avail. I have a video sound clip where its clearly audible Sonata Ticking Noise - YouTube .
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Just got my 2013 CPO GS350 and love it. I did notice this morning a tapping or ticking noise, like a diesel engine would make, as the car warmed up. Anything to be concerned about or can that be normal for a GS? Also, are there any recalls or TSBs I should check into for this car?
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I was on my drive in to work Wednesday and the car once warmed up started surging and cutting out. I got it to work and home again and hooked up my code reader and came up with P0304 meaning misfire in number 4 cylinder.
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When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
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Bought a 2007 es350 2 months ago and transmission shifted fine during test drives but now seems to hesitate when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear when not warmed up. Also seems to not engage at low speeds of around 5mph again when cold. Seems to shift normally when warmed up or after the the first couple shifts of the morning. Is it a simple fix or a prelude of something worse to come? Other than that I love the car so far.
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I have a 06 fwd santa fe. Im pretty sure this is a front break noise. It only happens when breaking and after the breaks have warmed up quite a bit. So after long trips of stopping and going. But if the trip is long with not much stopping the noise doesn't happen. It never happens right away, so if the car sits over nite the next day for my morning coffee run the noise doesn't happen. But driving around town with a lot of stopping and going the noise eventually starts. The front break pads are new/recently installed, as well as the rotors. I've tried giving the pads a sand but nothing changed and im not seeing any bluing on the rotors. You can hear the noise roughly 27 seconds into the mp3. At the moment I can't change back to my old pads as i have a bummed up wrist, I've been waiting for it to heal so i can try changing back to my old pads, but until then i was hoping if i could get an answer as to what's causing the noise.
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Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
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2006 Sonata 3.3 liter engine with 123K miles. While driving between 30-40 mph, when I "feather" the gas pedal the car will shudder. It does not happen every time but it usually happens a couple times when it does. I see no change in rpm, transmission fluid is at a good level.
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I have a 2006 V-10 TDI with 43k miles on it. Last week I was turning right onto a busy street so I got on the gas hard and all of a sudden it sounds like my transmission was bouncing/shuddering inside the tunnel. It has since happened twice since then, both times while turning right and on the gas hard. I always like to find out as much information as I can about a problem before I take it to my local dealer as the only V-10 they have ever seen is mine and I didn't buy it from them.
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I turned on the climate control this morning when I started the car and tried to change the temperature, then for some reason until the car was warmed up the climate control went to lo and seemed like it was locked there.
Once I the car got warmed up, the climate control worked was normal. It seemed like the increase/decrease controls were locked.
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2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
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Took my 06 Outback (106K miles) in to have the right front inner & outer CV boots/axle assembly replaced (one of the boots had torn open and was slinging grease everywhere, so no surprise there). When I was driving home after picking the car up, I noticed what felt like a wobble or shudder that seemed to come from the center or right side of the car (I couldn't tell which). It would only happen while accelerating, kicking in at about 20mph and then seeming to go away at about 30mph. It didn't happen at all while coasting, braking, or decelerating. The more of a load there was on the engine, the worse the wobble/shudder was, and if I accelerated very very slowly it wouldn't happen at all or would be just barely perceptable. I didn't feel it in the steering wheel; it was more like something felt through the seat and the car itself, if that makes sense.
So I took the car back to the shop the next day, and although the owner of the shop said he drove the car and didn't notice anything, he decided to go ahead and do the job over under warranty just in case they had installed a bad axle or had otherwise "botched" (my word, not his) the job. He also rotated and rebalanced the tires on the off chance that's where the issue was. Within about 15-20 minutes of picking up the car the 2nd time, I started noticing the wobble/shudder again, always under the same conditions as I've already noted--only while accelerating, always kicking in at about 20mph and going away at about 30mph, and always worse the more of a load there was on the engine/the faster the acceleration. The only additional info I've been able to glean is that it doesn't ever seem to happen when I drive the car first thing in the morning, but starts to happen as the car warms up.
At a complete loss, I crawled under the car and starting looking and poking around for something that might be loose or knocking around. I was particularly interested in determining if there was any play in the U-joints or some kind of damage to the drive shaft. I didn't notice anything except for this--at different points on the drive shaft there are what I assume are balancing weights welded to the shaft. Well, I found a bare spot toward the rear end of the shaft that seems as if a weight used to be there (although I can't say with 100% certainty). The drive shaft is painted entirely black, as are the weights, except for this one shiny, bare-metal, square-shaped spot. "AHA" I thought to myself...balancing weight broke off (although how that would happen beats the heck out of me since it's fairly well-shielded from road debris...maybe it was just a cr@ppy weld), now the shaft is out of balance, hence the wobble/shudder. However, the more I thought about it, the more I wondered...if the shaft was out of balance, why would it only wobble while accelerating? I understand why it might only do it at certain speeds, but if a shaft is out of balance, shouldn't it wobble/shudder at those particular speeds regardless of whether I'm accelerating, decelerating, or coasting? And why would it not seem to happen until after the car had been driven for 15 minutes or so and had warmed up? Again, it seems like an out-of-balance drive shaft is going to be apparent regardless of the operating temperature of the car.
So, could I be on the right track? And if so, is the fix as simple as welding a new weight on there? Can this be done with the shaft still on the car? I think Subaru considers the shaft a non-serviceable part, but I don't want to trash and replace an otherwise perfectly good shaft for what seems like a pretty easy fix (albeit one that is probably beyond my own abilities).
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My 2011 LS 460 with 3800 miles on it has a shudder or modulation at about 38 to 40 mph. Transmission? Any fixes out there or known problems? Great car but this problem is becoming annoying.
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