Lexus :: 1994 - Rear Brakes Locking And Car Freezes / Won't Move
Apr 20, 2013
My boyfriend ( a mechanic) has a 94 Lexus car for me to use how ever it has problems. It has rear brakes locking( they were changed) and the car freezes won't move in anyway. Every time when it's driven 3-4 miles it freezes steering locks in place won't move. What can be done?
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We’ve been running into a problem with the DRCC on our 2011 Model 5. In simple terms, the DRCC freezes locking onto car in front and activating the beeper/hitting the breaks even when no vehicle is ahead! So far, this has happened once to my wife (when she was making a 90 mile trip)
In all cases this has occurred as the car was passing a semi, when the front of the car was even with the semi drivers door. In one case, there was no car in front, just acted like there was one.
Whenever this occurs, the car continues to brake and the only immediate solution is to turn off the Radar. Also when we re-engage the DRCC, the unit is still frozen – braking for a non existent vehicle.
No problems turning the DRCC off and using the ordinary cruse. What seemed to “clear” the condition was pulling off the Interstate and turning off the car. I also noted that (after it had froze again) that when the ambient temperature had dropped below 90 degrees that the DRCC cleared. The first time my wife ran into this was hot too.
In summary, this has happened only when:
· Passing a semi
· Temperature is high (above 90).
I don’t believe that it is an alignment issue, as I’ve been amazed at how narrow the radar pattern seems to be (and very nicely tracks the steering).
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord Ex i went an had a brake booster and brake master cylinder put on my car. About 3 to 4 days later my brakes locked up on me so i had the brakes bleed, a new brake line, and a need ABS pump put on and the brakes are still locking up what is causing this to happen?
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I have a 2006 Saturn Vue that has an intermittent problem. After commuting for 50 miles and parking for the day, when I leave to go home by pulling forward out of the parking space, there is a loud metallic clang and the left rear wheel locks. When I step on the brakes to stop the car stops, but the rear wheel stays locked. When I press the brake pedal all the way down about half way down there is a difference in pressure on the pedal and the rear wheel releases. This will repeat up to three times. Has also happened after the 50 mile drive and stopped at store for 20 minutes. Will not repeat every time, and of course not when there is a mechanic is anywhere near the vehicle.
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I am going to install a BBK on the front of my car and I was wondering if I can take the larger front brakes and move them to the back of the car.
If not, any good set of drilled or slotted rotors for the rear brakes?
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
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I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4, 4.0, auto and have trouble with the back brakes howling, locking up and generally driving me nuts. I've replaced the drums, shoes, cylinders, emergency brake cables and all the hardware. We've bled all 4 numerous times, blown out the lines, looked for leaks and done all we can think of. What am I missing?
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I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
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I've got a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4 with 200,000. So my rear differential leaks a few drops of fluid every time I drive it, looks like it's coming from the pinion seal. I've just been filling it topping it off with fluid.
Anyway, yesterday I got in it and started driving, I noticed a howling noise, and when I turned my rear tires started locking up. It was like that for about 5 miles until I got home, no matter which way you turned the tires would lock up.
I went under and topped off the differential with fluid again, and I pushed my parking brake in and released it. Got back in the truck and drove, and it was fine. What happened? I'm just worried it will happen again if I don't look more into it.
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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I drive a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid. For about three months now, sometimes when I brake the pedal only moves a couple of inches, freezes and the car won't stop. The car also makes a strange intermittent sound like someone humming with his mouth open. Sometimes the brake light comes on the dashboard, sometimes the ABS light, sometimes both, sometimes neither. When I take it in to the garage, everyone reports there is no code for them to read. During this time I have had the bearings (noticed road noise) and the brakes (squeaking) replaced in the rear right wheel.
Before the brakes were replaced, when the pedal froze, I stopped the car by pulling on the emergency brake, putting the car in neutral and/or turning the car off. When I restart the car, everything goes back to normal. Since the brakes were replaced, I haven't had to go to those extremes. I take my foot off the brake, depress it again, and the car usually stops. If the ABS/brake lights are on, I turn the car off and on again, and all goes back to normal. The problem could occur three times in a day or once in a month. I never know when it's going to happen. After reporting these symptoms to my local Ford dealership, the place where I buy my tires and my garage mechanic, they all shrugged and said they couldn't do anything. I'm thinking no one wants to be liable when the crash comes.
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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Does this sound normal that sometimes the rear suspension with move/adjust itself after I turn off the car and then get out? One side appears to be slightly lower than the other as well, but both of the height adjusters underneath appear to be at the same level.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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Experienced problem with the Automatic locks on the doors? The doors on my camry lock as soon as I move the shifter out of park. The owners manual indicates that I can get the doors to lock automatically at 20 km/hr. I have tried following the instructions in the manual to make this happen but without any success.
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Several times now since I bought the RCF 3 weeks ago the audio system freezes. It always happens with Enform streaming Pandora, the whole system locks up, touchpad is dead, can't adjust volume, can't use Nav, etc. Only way to fix is to turn off and restart the car.
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My iPod usually plays just fine in my ES350, but once a week or so it freezes up. I have to reboot the iPod and then all is good for another week or so. I have two iPods; this happens to each of them. The iPods do not freeze up when tied into my home stereo system. Usually there is an iPhone in the car, using the blue-tooth connection; no hardwired connection for the iPhone in the center console. I am using an Apple connection cable, not a cheap knock-off cable.
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I took my SC430 to the Lexus dealership to get my passenger side air bag replaced due to the recall. I decided to have them work on my car by getting the oil changed, replacing a dead foglight bulb and checking on my navigation system.
I told my consultant that the nav will not work after I press the "agree" button on the screen and it just freezes. Later on, tells me that there's something wrong with the ECU chip and.
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Yesterday for the first time while driving my gs460 2010 on the highway the front brake right side freezes for a sec after accelerating 100+ it keeps freezing for a sec . below that nothing happens everything is back to normal no brake freezing. Whats the reason or been through the same problem?
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