Leaks :: 1992 Mitsubishi - Loud Air Escaping Sound From Under Hood
Jul 21, 2011
I have a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4 (Twin turbo)
Last night I was driving.. not even pushing my car or anything. I go through 1st gear fine, then when I hit second, out of nowhere I hear this loud air escaping sound come from under the hood around 3000rpms. As I went up in rpms, the sound just got louder, so I shifted quick.
It sounded like if I just tried to go through it, it would explode or something. I looked this up and found somewhere it said to try tightening the clamps on everything under the hood, so I did that. None of them were loose but I did tighten them a lot.
I also looked at my (boost?) gauge (gauge on the far right in the car) and it seemed like it was stuck at halfway and moved very little when I was driving. I was going to have a person try to feel where the air was coming from when I revved it in neutral but it doesn't seem to do it in neutral..
Never heard it before and I need to figure this out as soon as possible. Trying to sell my car and this happens..
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there's a noise that sounds like a seagull coming from under the hood near the steering wheel. Turns out it's the vacuum brake accumulator & there was a recall on this. Unfortunately I had the part replaced back in 02, so Montero won't fix it a second time. I only use the vehicle on the weekends & didn't see any reduction in the brake performance so I put the repair off. That was over a year ago. How important is it to fix this? Other than the really odd noise there doesn't seem to be an issue.... I'm just trying to decide the future of my truck since the transfer case is gone & I can't use 4wd or AWD and more. That's been broken & flashing about a year too.. On top of that the AC is broken & now there's a light tapping noise whenever the car is in gear, but not in park.. I really love my truck but am losing hope. Everyone says it's not worth fixing. 140,000 miles.
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VW Phaeton, 2004 W12, 104000 Miles, Park in garage, heard loud pop and air escaping front passenger side, I think it is the air shock or suspension.
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I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 133000 miles on it. Recently it has started making a very loud sound that comes from under the hood. The sounds is comparable to the sound a semi truck makes if it is idling. The noise is not constant, usually happens when I put the car in park or if I'm driving at low speed (under 20mph). The sound lasts around one minute.
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My 2002 GMC Sierra, when the AC is on, occasionally makes a sound like pressure escaping from an air tank. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, like when I take it to the dealer to get fixed, and other times it does it every 30 seconds or so. It's worse in hot weather, but I've had it do it in the winter when the Defrost (and AC) is on. It sounds like an Air Compressor that has a broken regulator and builds up too much pressure and releases the pressure. The sound only lasts for about 1/2 a second, but it's fairly loud. It's coming from under the hood, because it is very loud when driving slow with the windows down. It will do it at all speeds, and is very annoying. We're planning on taking this truck to the Grand Canyon this summer, so I'm hoping to figure it out. My wife says we should just buy a new truck.
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Just noticed a sound of air sucking sound under the hood on heavy acceleration only, the harder I push the louder it gets. Either sucking or hissing sound. I feel no difference in driving. No loss of power or anything else. Just the sound of air coming out like a leaking air line. I will check later this afternoon if its affecting my turbo boost. I have 235000 klms on the clock
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My Explorer overheated yesterday. Found a very loud hissing sound coming out from under the hood. Let it cool off filled it with antifreeze, started it up, started hissing again. Found the thermostat had broken. Replaced the thermostat. Filled it up again. After replacing the thermostat I found out the hissing sound was coming from the plastic thermostat housing. Replaced the housing. Again I refilled it with antifreeze.
Started to let it warm up and noticed liquid dripping out of the exhaust pipe. Checked it out. Had a green color to it. Then I noticed the coolant resivor was full up to the cap. I did not fill it up past the full line on the side of the resistor. Tried removing the cap.
Found out it had a ton of pressure under it. Bled off the pressure. Refilled it again. Did not put the cap back on. Tried starting it. Instantaneous geyser. Runs like it is missing on 1cylinder. No oil in the coolant that I can see. No coolant in the oil. Could this problem be caused by a blown head gasket of a crack in 1 of the heads or in the block?
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Well, since I replaced the MAP hose a few weeks ago the old girl has been running fine. Until yesterday. I was leaving work and she had low boost, less than 10PSI, and as I passed by a parked tractor trailer I could hear the sound of high pressure air escaping because I had my window rolled down.
So today I checked it out. I found three possible leaks spots, BUT no "smoking gun". Take a look at the pics. The damage you are seeing is on the outside of the hot side boot at the turbo and the bottom of the cold side CAC tube. The cracks don't appear to penetrate to the inside. Could these still be possible leak sites? IDK.
I'm going to order replacements anyway. Ford wants WAY to much for these parts. I checked the MAP hose and it is just like new from several weeks ago. Also, I inspected the inter-cooler as best that I can without removing it. I don't see any issues with the tanks or the tank-to-core mounting. It all looks normal. If it does fail where does it normally fail at?
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I've just bought a new accent 2014 car, I noticed a sound like air escaping coming from the back near the rear wheel, the sounds is continuous, it doesn't stop till the car is turned off, the AC was not turned off, my friend told me that it could the brakes but the sound is coming with and without pushing the brake pedals. Is this normal for a new car or I should go and got it checked ? If it not normal what could it be ?
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I recently had a problem with my Mitsubishi GTO 1992 Non Turbo MANUAL Japanese import.When I was revving it would simply rev and the car would hardly move. I had the whole clutch changed and the slave cylinder. This fixed the most of it but now, a couple of days later, when my car gets warm it happens again, particularly in high gears.
If the clutch and slave cylinder have been changed, what can it be?
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So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
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Replaced the front oil seal on a 1992 mazda B2200 an it starts leaking again after running for about 20 minutes? Is there any where else oil can come from near there?
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Strong Gas Odor from under the Hood. Mechanic found no leaks. Contacted Subaru only reply I got was "how many miles are on the Car" and take it to a Subaru Dealer. Odor is intermittently.
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Originally, the inciting event was a plume of smoke coming from under my hood. I had the car towed and they said my radiator blew up and did the repair. A week later, I was smelling what I thought was radiator fluid. I took it back and they said I had three major oil leaks. My wife didn't understand why they did spot the leaks just a week earlier, if they were that major? All that said, I had been going there for awhile, so I trusted them. They fixed, or they said they fixed, all three leaks but when they returned the car, it would kind of rattle intermittently whenever the car was stopped but running.
I had no such problem before bring it in for the other issues. They kept it for another few days, almost a month in total with all the repairs and they said they got it to where it was barely noticeable. Well now, just two weeks late, it has been getting worse and worse, the rattling of the car when the car is stopped. And tonight, all of my warning lights suddenly came on- engine warning, brakes, everything all at once. I spent two and half grand with this shop and they returned it with a problem it didn't even have before. It needs timing belt, that was the next thing to get repaired.
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I have a 1.8i golf 3.... I am Getting the ticking noise from the engine/head, not really sure what it is. I went to one mechanic who said it was the hydraulic lifters which i did change but no difference.
the noise gets louder when i accelerate even when parked, what i have noticed is when I accelerate when driving the noise gets louder and when i put my clutch in to change a gear the noise starts to drop but makes some kind of a winding noise.
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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My 1992 Toyota Camry was making increasingly worse sounds under the hood. On my way to my mom's mechanic, something snapped and the car stopped running. I asked the mechanic to check it out and let me know how much it would cost to fix it. He told me a needed a new timing belt, water pump, and everything else that goes along with it. The engine, because of Toyota's design was fine.
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Smokes comes out of hood, check engine light is on, ABS light is on, the rpm needle jumps When I stop it jumps to #2, when it does that also the car shakes like vibrating.....
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I have an 02 mitsu lancer and over the course of 3 days the car has gotten REALLY loud only when accelerating. it sounds like it has been straightpiped but the muffler is still there. Also when accelerating the car vibrates very noticeably - I can feel it in the steering column and the gas pedal. When I have been accelerating and come off the gas, the car makes a loud hiss that sounds like blowoff valves which is weird because this is obviously a naturally aspirated car. I would have thought there could just be a hole in the exhaust system but that doesn't explain the vibrating and all of these symptoms arose at the same time. What could this be?
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So the last week and a half my car has been making a loud noise that sounds like a loud POK when my car accelerates or slows down. I am worried that there is a loose bolt somewhere and that the noise is caused by something shifting under the forces being applied to the wheels.
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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander. About two months ago, I replaced (myself) the radiator fan because it had stopped working. I bought the new fan on the internet and it was fairly easy to install. It was a little louder than the original fan, but it worked great. Last week it suddenly became louder and stays on for a minute after I turn the car off. Is the fan defective? Should I return it? Should I ask my mechanic to test it? Or just ignore it?
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