Kia - Sportage :: Clutch Stops Working When Vehicle Running Long Enough To Get Hot
Oct 22, 2011
I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. Manual transmission.
For the past two days, once the vehicle has been running long enough to get hot, it becomes really difficult to shift. I think I'm losing the clutch pedal. For example, when in first gear stopped at a traffic light, the car will stall out with the clutch engaged (as if the clutch weren't pressed down.) With the car moving, it's physically very hard to move the gear shift.
Topped off the break/clutch master cylinder fluid, and it seems ok. Also took a look at the transmission fluid, and it is not low.
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Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
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I love my Rig, however I wish I had more time to drive the Beast. My Ex sits at home about 90% of the time patiently waiting for it's next assignment. Service is reserved for family trips, once in awhile light duty towing, occasional date nights with other couples, loading up the kids & their friends to get ice cream, etc. I have other vehicles for my daily driver.
Curious to see how often other Ex DIESEL owners drive their rigs and what the average time the truck sits vs. being used. I'd rather drive the truck than let it idle for 1/2 hr.
My Truck has the 7.3 so, to keep the Diesel happy I don't drive it less than 20 miles when it does move. Diesel motor experts agree that driving a diesel less than 4 miles roundtrip is not good for the motor because the engine has not had time to reach full operating Temp. About to roll 260,000 and that 7.3 motor seems like it's just starting to get broken in.
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I have a rather peculiar problem with My 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. This has happened multiple times spread out over the last 10 years. Every couple of years after a rather long drive, then a stop, it spits, sputters, has very little to no power, and will ultimately die. It will usually start right back up, idle fine, but when you shift into gear, it acts up as described. If you let it set for about 15-20 minutes, it will usually start up and run fine without the symptoms as described.
The First time it happened I was lucky enough to be within a mile of the dealer, who diagnosed a bad fuel pump before it was ever on the lift. He showed me what he said was the culprit, which was a fuel filter that was full of black particles and soot. He replaced both the pump and filter and it ran fine for a couple of years and it started doing the same thing. Another new fuel pump and filter and we're running again (all under warranty).
About three years ago it did it again and this time we went to a different dealer and since we were no longer under warranty, we wanted to know what was actually going wrong. Nothing was ever found, no codes, pressure was good, everything looked fine. No problems until today when it started again, no dash or check engine lights, it just wouldn't run. We let it sit for 20-30 minutes and started it right up and drove it home without incident.
Are these vehicles known for vapor locking? It sure acts like that is what it was doing. The temp wasn't that hot and was ruled out as a factor.
I am planning to put a new fuel filter in it?
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I need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
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Went outside to start my '99 V6 and nothing! No interior lights, no door chime, no annoying ding ding with the key in the ignition. The car ran great yesterday but I noticed it sounded like the cooling fan was running long after the car was turned off in my garage.
I tried using a car starter/charger and charged it up for 3 hours - was reading a positive charge on the gauge- but it won't start. When I get ready to crank the car with the charger attached to it, the fan noise kicks in again but it isn't coming from the radiator fan- it sounds like it is coming from under the air intake for the air filter.
When I attempt to start the car,I can best describe the sound as a machine gun like cranking noise that lasts as long as I turn the key. I am hoping it isn't the starter. The battery is less than 2 years old with about 10k miles on it.
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Lately I've noticed the radiator fan has been running fairly excessively for the entire duration of a trip. (~1 hour) The ambient outside temperature has been around 30 degrees and was driving normally on the highway for the entire trip. (engine temps are normal as well)..
When I shut the engine down and get out you can tell the fan was really working since it takes a good 10 seconds to spin down. (almost like a jet engine shutting down). Still other times, it doesn't do it with the same conditions. One of the only things I can narrow it down to is it seems to always run long when it's the first drive of the day.
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I have an 04 Gli with 85000 miles on it. I just had the clutch done with a conversion from a dual mass to a single. When the car is idling there is some chatter coming from the tranny but it stops once i press the clutch.
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I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
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A friend of mine got this car cheap because it stalled at stops. It also ran rough. The fuel guage would go from empty to full. Yesterday the car stalled out and wouldn't restart for an hour or so and even then it started hard. I drove it home for her but it barley made it. I changed the fuel pump because the dealer that sold it thought that might be it.
It started and ran rough like before after installing the new fuel pump.... Then it stalled and wont start. It fires but it still wont start. If I step on the accelerator it backfires a little but still no start. I checked for spark at the plugs in the front and they all have spark but its hard to tell if its a regular pattern or not. So its getting fuel to the fuel rail and at least some spark but it wont start.
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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Had the car for less than a week and I'm getting a constant chirping/cricket sound, the moment I touch the clutch even slightly it stops. Sound is gone when clutch is touched in any way or engaged. My first thought is Throw Out Bearing, or perhaps pilot bearing?
2010 GL Sport model.
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Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
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