I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
View 7 Replies2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
I just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 99 F250SD, earlier this year my wipers started going on by themselves, switch didn't seem to effect them, wouldn't turn off with the switch but would with the ignition off. Then they stopped working all together along with the washer. Checked fuses and relays, put a new switch in and still no dice. When I move the switch the wiper/washer relays do not click at all.
I've tried tracing the wires but haven't been able to find any issues there. The gem is as clean and new looking as one made yesterday. Is there a pinout test I can run on the plug into the motor? or which color wires coming out of the fuse box to check? I'd really like to get this fixed so I can drive my truck this winter.
I recently purchased Toyota Camry Hybrid -2008, pre-purchase inspection done by Toyota dealer. Today, my car refuses to turn ignition on (I have keyless start). After several trials, it turned on. I switched off the car and tired after 5 mins. Again it gave the trouble first time, worked second time. What could cause this issue? It's still under hybrid warranty.
View 5 RepliesI'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
I have an '08 Nissan Altima. Recently, the A/C automatically kicks on when I push the start button. And, the blower switches from the floor to the chest position. This started about the time I put a new battery in the car.
View 1 RepliesDetails. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.
View 9 RepliesFrom a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
My cousin has a 99 1.8T passat and its been sitting for a bit so initially I thought it was the battery but it is fine. The car cranks and it turns over but it will not start. It was fine than it was left for a few days when it was cold and has not started since.
I am not too farmiliar with the 1.8T .... I pulled out the dipstick and found the oil to be a little cloudy, that got me worried but last time it was driven the car was fine. It also looks kinda green but I am not sure if its the coolant since the coolant in the reservior is red or maybe orange.
I went to start the car today and it will turn over but doesn't start. I tried to see if it had any codes but not codes present. What should I try? It has 82k and I am original owner. What does the 100k warranty cover?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
Have an 04 ford f-150. igntion getting hard to turn of. not all of the time but still has its moments. thinking of using some graphite to lube it up.
View 2 RepliesMy wife went to use our 2004.5 Passat V6 4Motion and it takes quite a few cranks for the engine to turn over and start. It sounds like the battery is losing it's charge. When running, none of the idiot lights show anything.
I have a couple questions: Could the alternator be damaged and isn't charging the battery or is it possible for the battery to be going after only 4.5 years?
If it's just the battery, how easy is it to replace? I've done them on previous cars, but with all of the electronics and stuff, I'm concerned since it's behind the firewall and I've read stories about it losing all of the electronics. I couldn't see an easy way to remove it, but I didn't spend much time looking.
My college age daughter is driving a 2008 kia sportage. She tells me that when it rains the battery light goes on and the steering wheel locks up.What to ask the mechanic?
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
Ok so... have an 04 that has more issues than Playboy magazine... any DIY tips or tricks...
I dont have an original key but the key I have has worked before. Motor cranks but wont turn over. Have tried the battery unhook thing, didnt work.
Truck has been running perfect and is my daily driver. Went grocery shopping with the wife and made two stops and drove it home. Parked in the driveway. No hint of any issues but when I went out a couple of hours later we went to head out to dinner and it cranks and doesnt start. Nothing out of the ordinary anywhere. No check engines lights, no theft lights flashing, nothing to indicate an issue. Engine sounds perfectly normal cranking, I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I cleaned the battery terminals today because they had some corrosion and I checked all of the fuses that have anything to do with fuel or fire and nothing was blown.
I also went and bought a Fuel Pump Drive Module and installed it and still nothing so I took it back.This is a pretty pampered truck, not a torn up beater. What else I should check? Will probably town it to a shop tomorrow if I dont have anything else to try but I am at a loss at this point. I tried to listen with a stethoscope and I dont hear the injectors firing or the COP's. Oh I also shot it with starting fluid and nothing happened so I dont believe its fuel related. I think something is keeping it from firing the COP's or the injectors arent firing. But what could it be? Nothing happened to the truck last time I drove it. Oh I did check the fuel pump cutoff button as well. Nothing there either.