I have a 2000 Kia Sportage and the dash lights and running/parking lights are not working. The 10 Amp fuse for the tail/running lights keeps blowing. What could be causing these problems on this year, make and model car and where I should look to find and fix the problem? I am trying to find and fix these problems as fast as I can, but I am not real sure as to where to even start looking.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. Manual transmission.
For the past two days, once the vehicle has been running long enough to get hot, it becomes really difficult to shift. I think I'm losing the clutch pedal. For example, when in first gear stopped at a traffic light, the car will stall out with the clutch engaged (as if the clutch weren't pressed down.) With the car moving, it's physically very hard to move the gear shift.
Topped off the break/clutch master cylinder fluid, and it seems ok. Also took a look at the transmission fluid, and it is not low.
I recently got my truck back from the dealership 04 super d 4x diesel (wife put gas in).. Anyway my dash lights, running lights and brake lights are not working. I checked fuses already and I did not see any obvious problems. I also replace the switch but that didn't work. Perhaps a ground somewhere or a relay? Turn signals and headlights work.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2000 excursion V10. Cruise wasn't working when I bought it. There are no lights on the dash that come on and I changed the switch on master cylinder. What to do. Fuses are good
View 2 RepliesI have a F350 2000 crew cab srw with 7.3 diesel. I removed the HID that was installed by previous owner. The factory wiring harness was still intact but now I don't have running lights or dash lights. I still have head lights, brake lights and blinkers... I replaced the head light units with factory replacements......
View 3 Replies1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
I'm on my way out and someone on the road just told me that my brake lights are both out. My rear running lights do work. Is this a fuse problem? What is the number where this fuse is located?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Kia Sportage which has been having troubles starting when cold and I'm not quite sure as to why. In January of 2012 I had to replace both the Battery and Alternator in this car because they were both bad. I bought the alternator from O'reilly Auto Parts and the Battery from Walmart. Once I replaced both the battery and alternator last year things were fine up until recently when I discovered that my car would not start. I did not leave anything on that could have drained the battery, but it acted as though the battery was dead.
I had to get a jump start from someone and go back to O'reilly. They tested the battery and the alternator in the car and it was concluded that the alternator was bad. I exchanged that alternator because it was a limited lifetime warranty and put a replacement re manufactured one in straight out of the box and got a jump start again because the battery level was down.
Things were working great until after I went to a couple of stores and was heading home. I heard what sounded like an electrical pop and then immediately after that the car started acting up again. When I got home I left the car running and put my multimeter on the battery to test it while it was running. It read 11.8 Volts while running. I went back to O'reilly and swapped that alternator out with another one.
With the first battery and alternator the readings that I was getting while cold was 12.1. After the first replacement alternator was installed it was reading 14.0 while running before the pop sound. After the pop sound it dropped to 8.60.
With the current replacement alternator it is reading between 13.3 to 13.6 while running. While cold it is reading between 12.2 and 12.4.
Are my readings normal or do they indicate a problem? It was suggested by one parts guy that there might be a drain on the system, but at the moment I can't figure out as to where a drain might be coming from. It was also suggested that alternator connectors might be faulty on the car itself.
When the car is idling and running it sounds like it's a bit erratic. I did replace the Ignition coils in 2007. How would I determine if there is a drain on the system and if there is a drain on the system where it might be coming from?
The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
View 24 RepliesI wanna hook up my tow mirrors lights to the running lights, not the turn signals. Which wire it is?
View 10 RepliesI stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
View 7 RepliesOK, I have looked everywhere I can think to look and can't fined anything on this. Dash lights how do you turn them off with the engine running. This is on a 2012 f150 xlt.
View 4 RepliesI took my euro switch from my R and put it in my GLI and than put my GLI OEM switch in my R. After doing this now my gauges, radio and window lights are not working in both cars. I checked the fuses they are good and I even bought two new euro switches and still having the same problem.
View 4 RepliesI've got an '03 Century with some "issues." There are times when the dashlights work, and times when they don't. At first I thought the issue was with the headlight switch itself due to the fact that the dashlights were operational with the "auto-on" feature; but it seems that is not the case.
I can turn the lights on, and the headlights themselves will operate, but not the dashlights. Just today, I turned on the lights using the switch, and had dash, lights, but on the way to work, I lost them. It's not just the main dash that goes black, but all of the lighting lit by the headlights being turned on.
The backlights or whatever they are called that light up my spedometer and fuel gauge, etc, are not functioning. Other lights such as engine, oil and park/neutral/drive work just fine, as does every other electrical system as far as I can tell. Is there a specific fuse that I need to check, or does this warrant a trip to a repair facility?
View 7 RepliesCan't figure out why my led running lights driver side only stopped working. They are original and never been touched.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Chevy Impala LS with 120,000 miles, equipped with sentinel lighting. Recently, the instrument cluster lights along with the lighted controls on the door panels and steering wheel stopped working leaving me unable to see the speedometer while driving at night. All controls seem work properly. I did some internet research and it appears there are several causes and/or fixes out there. I would like to have one or two more probable approaches than just throw money and time at a trial and error approach.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 Honda CRV, standard transmission. Within the last 2-3 months, I have had my battery, starter, and radiator replaced. Three times in the last month, I have turned my car on and the headlights and dashboard lights won't come on. However, the break lights, blinkers, and other interior lights come on. The first time, I shut the car off and left it over night and the lights all worked in the morning. The second time this happened, I just turned the car lights on and off a few times, and they came back on. When it happened this evening, I tried turning the car and the lights on and off, but no luck. I took the car to a mechanic after it happened the first time. He said that because it wasn't happening then, it would be really hard to diagnose.
View 10 RepliesMy running lights aren't working. My father (who has been working on cars since the mid 1960's and now fiddles with small farm equipment too)- checked every single fuse - on the passenger side panel, and both right and left panels under the hood. All fuses were good. A couple of years ago I had a problem with the brake lights (not the third one) not working and it turned out it was in the turn signal lever. We had tried the fuses, wires, etc. and couldn't figure it out. So I'm thinking that the running lights are something weird like that too. Especially since I can't drive at night without any running lights.
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