Kia - Sportage :: 1999 - Engine Would Rev Really High When In Park
Jul 14, 2013
I drive a 1999 Kia Sportage with 86,000 miles on it, and a couple of months ago it started running really weird. The engine would rev really high when in park and when I was in drive and stopped it would rev extremely low and sometimes kill the engine. The check engine light came on and it was code p0101 and said mass or volume air flow circuit range/performance. The guy at O'Reilly said the mass air flow was most likely dirty, so I bought a can of cleaner and cleaned the sensor. That didn't work, and now the problem is getting worse. The engine completely died yesterday and wouldn't start and so I went and bought a new mass air flow sensor. Today I put it in, but it didn't solve the problem. My car ran for about 5 minutes and then died again and wouldn't restart.
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I drive a 1999 Kia Sportage with 84,000 miles on it and recently the engine has been running rather odd. When I start the car, sometimes the engine will rev really high up to like 3000 rpm until I put it in reverse or drive. Also, lately when I am in drive and I stop, or slow down so it drops below 1000 rpm the engine will kind of rev down to 500 and then back to 1000. This causes the engine to kind of shake and has once caused it to shut off. Now I put it in neutral when I stop. What it could be?
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My Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
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I bought a CPO 2010 Camry LE (2.5 4 cyl, 6 sp auto) a few months ago. The car had around 34K miles when I got it, and ever since then, it has had a high pitched whining noise when accelerating or revving the engine in park. It is noticeable from around 2500RPM up, and seems to be a little louder when the engine is cold.
I have left it at the dealer twice, and both times they have come back and said it is normal. I can't believe this, because I have owned many cars over the years, most of them being fairly dilapidated, yet most of them haven't had a noise like this. I think I have read a comment online somewhere that an issue like this was found due to a bad power steering pump .
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1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
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Inherited a 2000 Saturn SL1 from my daughter. I has an issue of idling high. It idles about 1100 rpm in park, but when I put it in gear that jumps up to about 2000 or so. I can hit 35mph w/o hitting the gas. There's also a noticeable suffer type smell from the car.
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05 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, 71,000 miles
Prior to today it had revved high, up to 3000 RPM, once or twice upon start-up but then settled down once I started driving it with no issues at stop lights.
Today, however, no issues upon start-up but within 1 mile it started acting badly. Pulls strong under load, i.e, accelerating. Once cruising speed is achieved and the right foot is relaxed, it loses power, slows and bucks.
At stop lights revs are down to below 800 while in drive and is slow out of the gate. When put in neutral at stop lights, it revs to 3000 then falls to 2000 then back up to 3000. It does not stall.
Replaced the IAC and it ran fine in park for exactly 2 minutes then began revving again.
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I just started idling high in park and while driving I cleaned the throttle body and the ics but did not work I pulled the ics out and had some one turn the key on and off and the ics plunger does not move I can feel the ics motor moving but the plunger does not move while i had the ics out I pushed a rag in the ics hole to control the idle and the idle came down but the ics plunger still doe not move would that mean the ics is bad?
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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When I start the car, there is a very strong smell of gas in the cabin. What is causing it? Is it expensive to fix?
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My kia runs great then cuts off during driving, It starts up with no problem and may run with no prblem for some time. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, had it diagnostic, the only code that shows is the oxygen sensor. It also have had the jiffy lube fuel system cleaning. any clues to what may be happening, the vehicle has 150k miles.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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I have a 2002 Kia Sportage and when the heater is on I smell gasoline and it's very strong.
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What can I do about my car it's not shifting, it's stuck in high gear and when I go from park to reverse it makes a loud thump. The check engine light came on and the codes are transmission control module it's a 2006 and only has 30,000 miles on it. It's hard to believe it's the brain so we changed the fluid and cleaned the sylinoids but then when I drove it around the block I put it in reverse it didn't make the loud noise and it shifted fine for a minute before I got around the block and almost home it made a loud banging noise and went back to not shifting again. What the problem could be.
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My 2007 Ford Focus runs in high rpm. When I put the car in park it sounds like someone is slightly holding gas pedal down. I have to use brake when on road more frequently. Vehicle will run over 25 miles per hour without touching gas pedal.
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I have a 2000 Kia Sportage which has been having troubles starting when cold and I'm not quite sure as to why. In January of 2012 I had to replace both the Battery and Alternator in this car because they were both bad. I bought the alternator from O'reilly Auto Parts and the Battery from Walmart. Once I replaced both the battery and alternator last year things were fine up until recently when I discovered that my car would not start. I did not leave anything on that could have drained the battery, but it acted as though the battery was dead.
I had to get a jump start from someone and go back to O'reilly. They tested the battery and the alternator in the car and it was concluded that the alternator was bad. I exchanged that alternator because it was a limited lifetime warranty and put a replacement re manufactured one in straight out of the box and got a jump start again because the battery level was down.
Things were working great until after I went to a couple of stores and was heading home. I heard what sounded like an electrical pop and then immediately after that the car started acting up again. When I got home I left the car running and put my multimeter on the battery to test it while it was running. It read 11.8 Volts while running. I went back to O'reilly and swapped that alternator out with another one.
With the first battery and alternator the readings that I was getting while cold was 12.1. After the first replacement alternator was installed it was reading 14.0 while running before the pop sound. After the pop sound it dropped to 8.60.
With the current replacement alternator it is reading between 13.3 to 13.6 while running. While cold it is reading between 12.2 and 12.4.
Are my readings normal or do they indicate a problem? It was suggested by one parts guy that there might be a drain on the system, but at the moment I can't figure out as to where a drain might be coming from. It was also suggested that alternator connectors might be faulty on the car itself.
When the car is idling and running it sounds like it's a bit erratic. I did replace the Ignition coils in 2007. How would I determine if there is a drain on the system and if there is a drain on the system where it might be coming from?
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My wife was driving home yesterday when our Kia would not accelerate when she pressed the accelerator. All the lights came on the dashboard and the engine shut off. So, she had to pull over.
After she pulled over and attempted to restart the engine, the engine would turn over (click like it wanted to start) but would not start. Though the fuel was low, the tank still had 1/8th of a tank, and the "low fuel" light was not on.
This morning, I put gas in the car and it started after two or three attempts. I was able to drive it to a gas station to fill it up. The car started without any issues.
It started, but I'm concerned that there is an underlying issue, like a fuel pump, filter, or something else.
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I replaced the thermostat in my 2000 3.1L Grand Prix SE yesterday. I had to remove the throttle body to get access to it. After putting it all back together, my car now idles around 3000rpm in Park or Neutral. It drops to around 2k when driving which is still a little high. I can definitely feel it taking off faster and it seems to buck a little bit here and there while driving. I did hear a loud hissing sound when I first started it up right around the throttle body area. I don't hear the hissing sound anymore, though. It justs sounds like it's running a lot harder. So my question is, would a leak around the throttle body (I did not use a new gasket and it's possible that the gasket wasn't properly seated) cause these symptoms? On the plus side, my car seemed to heat up super fast!
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