Kia - Spectra :: Key Stuck In ACC Position
Jun 5, 2013
I just bought my kia from its first owner and love it. However, one of the first issues I came across was when I tried to turn the car off and the key stuck in the ACC position. I've had this happen nearly half the time I turn the key. My best fix for it is to turn the car back over and continue to try turning it off. Sometimes it needs a forceful turn to get it to work. I brought it to the dealership and they "couldn't duplicate it" but factored out it being an issue with the stealing deterrent the car has built in. My husband hasn't had issue with it either so now they are looking at me. I swear it happens a lot! I've tried turning the wheel, lifting the key in the process of the turn, being gentler with the turn, everything. It's still happening.
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I went to close my sunroof yesterday and it wouldn't close.. Right now it's stuck in the up position.. i checked all my fuses but don't know what one is for the sunroof.
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I have noticed that my rear sunshade sometimes gets stuck in the "up" position and will not come back down until I turn the the car off and re-start it. Some days it works every time, and on other days, it seems to have a mind of its own.
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Recently my car horn became stuck in the on position even though I was not driving the car or using the horn. In fact, it got stuck in the middle of the night!! To stop the horn, I simply removed the fuse for the horn, but I was curious what sort of issue would cause this problem and what should be done to fix it.
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I have a strange problem with the air circulation in my 2010 prius. The vents are stuck in one position. When I try to go to different mode (windshield, floor, etc) it doesn't do anything.
This happened when I was alternating between windshield and other modes to get small parts of glass from the vents (car had a windshield damage due to a "meeting" with a deer). Anyway, I don't know what could be wrong.
Is there a motor that overheated (due to constant switching of modes)? Is there a piece of glass blocking the system from switching?
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I know this is a minor issue as problems go, but i put coins in my ash trays and just as i placed some coins in the driver ashtray i think one or two of them fell behind the tray and when I placed the tray closed, it closed and will not open. The more i pushed it the more it went in. How do I open this without damaging the wood.
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The passenger side 3rd row seat is stuck in the down position. The driver side lifted and locked in place just fine, but when I pull the release lever on the passenger side the outer part releases but center portion won't budge at all.
I've tried everything I can, which isn't much other than pulling and grunting at the same time (usually works for me )Critical because I need to set the 3rd row up in order to reach the bolt holding the 2nd row seat so they can be removed so I can access the fuel covers in order to replace the faulty fuel sensors so my gas gauge will work.
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My front wipers are stuck in the up position. I left my wipers on when getting out of the car at night, the next morning when I turned the ignition the wipers started to go up so I automatically turned them off, the wipers went down to there normal rest position and then all of a sudden they went back up. Now they rest in the vertical position, they work fine but its starting to piss me of a little.
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I flipped my center arm rest open (2-button version in a V8) and it just is stuck in the open position now.
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I put the rear seats all the way down to haul some gear, and when I went to raise the rear passenger seat back up, I found it would not go back up. The middle shoulder belt is stuck in position. I removed the plastic clip, unbolted the metal frame, tried to jiggle what I could with a screwdriver, to no avail. I used to use this belt for the kid seat, so perhaps keeping it in position for so long did something to the linkage.
The car has 80k on it, 2000 Passat V6
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I have a 99 Passat 1.9 Automatic with door lock problems .The LR door is stuck in the shut position and the passenger doors front and rear can not be closed the latch doesn't hold the door close ,I have to tie them up with a rope to drive.The only one that works normally is the driver's door luckily. Where to start ?. If I force the lock knob on the Left rear door from inside goes back in and I can't open that door at all.
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06 330 4WD Replaced control arms, tied rod ends, ball joints and had aligned. Now it somehow appears that the suspension is stuck in the high position, there is no movement in the front struts. It sounds like there is no motion from any suspension components. Feeling a bit stupid here...everything looks correct. So Disconnected battery and suspension is actually active now. But each corner is at a different height, will not return to Normal or low position
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The larger (60) side of my 2005 Sienna's third row seat is stuck in the "up" position. That is: the seat back will fold down, but the seat will not release from the floor in order to fold down into the well at the back of the vehicle.
The pull tab on the back of the seat that releases it moves in and out too easily. I viewed the mechanism under the seat and it appears that the pull tab is linked to a cable which rotates an armature, which in turn pulls one cable for each leg of the seat to release it. It looks like the cable connected to the pull tab is properly rotating the armature, but the legs aren't releasing. I can't tell for sure but it seems like the armature is rotated into the "release" position but it hasn't released the legs. I've crawled under the seat and tried my best to rotate the armature with my hands and a pair of pliers to no avail.
I was thinking my next step would be to try to rotate the armature with a little gentle persuasion (e.g. a hammer and a screwdriver or piece of wood).
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200, in great condition—other than that the wipers are in the upright position, like goalposts. They work fine, turn on and off perfectly, but they always return to the "up" position on the windshield. As far as I can tell the rest of the electronics (i.e., lights, signals, etc) still work fine. A couple months ago the wiper blades started to slowly inch their way up, stopping at increasingly higher positions until they finally stopped where they're at now. A mechanic I talked to said that the wiper switch is burnt out and it would require ripping out the dash to replace the wiper motor, while a friend of mine thinks resetting the switch is all that's needed.
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This morning on my way to work it was quite cold (~2 degrees F) and my car had some snow left on it from yesterday's snowstorm. I warmed the car up and had the rear defroster on.
When I went to use the rear wiper to clear some snow it got stuck in the down position and won't work. I tried manually clearing any snow and now the rear window is clear but the blade still won't move. I turned it on and off several times and nothing. I turned the car off and on again and still nothing.
Is it possible the motor is fried? This is a 2010 RX with ~68k miles.
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 truck. My vent selector is stuck in the 'dash vent' position. I can't switch it to defrost, floor, or anything else. This past winter I noticed that heat would blow well but only through the dash vents. Now that summer is well underway I noticed that the AC blows through the dash vents also, but it doesn't blow very cold. I checked the freon, topped it off (didn't overfill), and still have the same issue. I checked the fuses and all are good also.
Of course, moving the selector to Max AC doesn't work either. Does this all point to the blend door motor? I hope not as the reading I have done means that this is one tough project to tackle.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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I have a 97 Bravada. Recently the check engine light came on and then went off. I didn't think anything of it at the time till the other day I drove it to work and back fine without any issues, then the next morning I tried starting it and nothing happened. No cranking, no interior lights, no sounds.
I tried jumping it thinking the battery was dead but that didn't work. Now my key is stuck in the ignition in the accessory position. It will not turn all the way back to release the key.
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