Kia - Spectra :: 2009 - Engine Start Racing When Try To Come To A Stop
Nov 2, 2013
I drive a 2009 Kia Spectra. Mileage - 89,000. About a year ago, very infrequently, I started noticing that the engine would start racing when I would try to come to a stop. Now, almost every time I start the car, the engine is racing while it is still in park. And when I come to a stop sign or stoplight, the engine races when I put on the brakes. This is NOT an issue with the mat hitting the accelerator. Lately, also, the car is starting to die for no reason when I bring it to a stop. I took this in to a mechanic, they could not find a problem--they cleaned off some cables but the engine was racing when I turned it on to drive home.
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Bought a 2001 from a used car dealership about 2 months ago. A week later it started acting funny. It would often race the rpm's about 2000 when at at stop light and then others times would act like I was out of gas when I would take off. Sputtered and then finally run normally. Then other times it wouldn't start and just crank over and over. After 10-15 times it would fire up and then act like nothing was wrong. It was a total crap shoot whether it would start or not each time.
Took it back to dealership and supposedly their mechanic installed a new fuel pump. Ran like a champ for about another two weeks and then exact same symptoms started showing up.
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I have a 09 Spectra. This morning when I went to start, it turned over fine but just wouldn't catch. I tried it and gave it a little gas and it fired up just fine and I drove to work with no issues. No CEL came on or anything.
This is the second time it's happened. First was over a year ago and after it sat for a week while we were on a cruise. This weekend it didn't go anywhere. I just moved it in the driveway a little bit so I could rotate the tires and and moved it back.
Any clue on what it could be? If what I understand is correct, pressing the gas pedal on a fuel injected car shouldn't matter, but apparently it did, so I'm not sure what's what.
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Last Thursday I was coming home from work and the first time I came to a stop the R32 began to buck just as I gave it a little gas. Tried stopping and starting it but it continued to do it the rest of the trip home. Fast forward to this morning (first time we've driven it since) and it completely stalled on my wife on her way to work. She managed to get it started and get it home. I drove it around the block and sure enough when it comes to a stop after moving it stalls. I was able to consistently get it to stall just by getting it moving and then coming to a stop. I scanned it for codes last night and got a couple of different codes. Ignore the photo-sensor one - I am fixing that just need to find what I did with it.
Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ......
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
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Our 2010 Prius with 33000 miles has developed strange 'engine racing'. At low speeds around 20-30mph, (warm) engine will rev up for 10+ sec with no foot on brake or accelerator. Then engine warning light comes on. Toyota dealer says "lean code", cleaned MAF sensor, checked AF and O2 sensors - OK. But same behavior continues- engine warning light back on. Otherwise runs normal.
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I have a 2009 Kia Spectra with around 119,000 miles on it. A while back ago I started noticing my car making a clop clop clop sound as the wheels turn that echoes back at me when I drive by a building etc... It almost sounds like a horse trotting. First, what is the nature of this problem ? And, secondly, is this something that will be expensive to repair ? And, thirdly, is this something that could be potentially dangerous the longer I let it go ?
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Have a 2009 Spectra and the power steering belt slips when turning the wheels and starting the car. Assumed it was the pump and replaced it with a salvage part ... same problem. Entirely possible we got another bad pump but seems unlikely it would exhibit the exact same symptoms. Is this a common problem with this model? Is there anything else in the system that could cause the pump to seize up when turning the wheel?
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My 2009 Kia Spectra won't start when the weather is extremely cold. I live in NH, right on the coast, and the car's parking spot affords it no protection from strong winds that we get here and therefore low temps. There was a cold spell with winds roughly a month ago and the following morning the car wouldn't start. the electronics inside still worked, but it didn't start. When it warmed up later that day it started up normally. the same series of events has been repeating itself over this last bit of cold weather, so I replaced the battery (upgrading from 550 CCA to 650 CCA). II went to start it this morning and once again, it won't start. I've had an oil change with all the fluids checked and replaced or filled just a couple days ago. The car will start in the morning with jumper cables. What might be going on here?
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 74K miles. It was apparently neglected before I bought it (at 55K miles), and has a case of engine sludge. It's clogging my oil control valve, and a couple engine flushes (by Kia dealer) over the last year have failed to correct the problem thus far. The car runs ok, but cannot pass an emissions test due to the check engine light and corresponding codes. Can I perform the flushes myself? What product should I use? Can I safely remove and clean the OCV myself? What product should I use?
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My car had slowed down when I pushed the gas pedal. I had to get towed. White powder was on the face of engine. Car will not crank. It makes a humming sound. Kia 2004 spectra ex....
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I picked up some Megan coil overs with plans to install them today, but can't figure out where one part goes. It looks like a spring spacer. The instructions are terrible and make no mention of what it is. My guess is it goes with the rear springs but...? [URL]....
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I was driving down the road and an m3 came up next to me. I was chewing on my fingernail and my girl says o this guy wants to race "heard him down shift". I drive in sports mode a lot and was in it at this time. cause I was chewing on my finger nail I didn't downshift via paddle, when I heard him hit it I hit it as well he took off a car and a half while I was waiting for my tranny to drop into the right gear when it did we were at a stand still he wasn't gaining and neither was I then my girl yield cop so I let off lol he was sitting in a field off to the side.
is there anything I can do to get the tranny to act faster? or is it a case of down shifting first is a must before racing from a roll?
but then you have to keep the bottle temp/pressure up and full and on all the time. why o why cant they hack this ECU so I can turbo this thing
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My '91 240 races when turned on when motor cold, colder it is the moreso, especially in Park and Neutral till it calms down It's happening under 60 degrees Fahrenheit and big time under 32. Sometimes turning steering wheel sharply will stop this. Is this ECU? Transmission? Belts? There seems too show excess transmission fluid on the dipstick, by the way lately, which may have been that way from accidental overfill and may not be related t this insane racing issue.)
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Car battery was dead, got a new battery from Walmart and replaced.
After that, from time to time, the engine would not start when pushing the start button, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries to get the engine to start. This has never happened before.
What is the reason for it, could it be that the walmart battery is not as powerful as the previous LEXUS battery? or something else?
By the way the car is due for an engine oil change with the warning light on. I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 0w20 and the light went on every 5000 miles.
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2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?
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It's a lite creaking clunk/shifting sound and only occurs in forward and when braking to a stop.It only makes the noise... when the brakes are initially applied.If the brakes maintain their engagement the noise no longer occurs.So... if the peddle is intermittently pressed when braking to a slow stop the slight shift/clunk noise will occur on each depression of the pedal.
The sound is located inside the engine compartment..guessing related to the brakes /or suspension components.If I were to take a stab at it's location in the bay.I would think it's loudest nearer the driver's side.I don't really hear it when I brake hard/stop abruptly.It's fairly audible within the cabin.I can't say it's a clunk... at least not fully yet but something has to be shifting slightly !? well maybe the front brake calipers/bolts are loose and the caliper is moving slightly... ? Or maybe a loose bolt on the suspension might be culprit.Could even be described similarly that of a dry coil-over seal compressing.but surely these struts/shocks can't have failed at only 30k ?I haven't pulled the front wheels off, yet, to inspect.
Very difficult for me to ascertain what might be moving/shifting while I'm operating the vehicle to make it occur.But I have to believe that fault lay with either the brakes or suspension.I'd also like to avoid the cost of a dealership diagnosis
some facts:
2010 LX
30K (well maintained/2nd Owner)
factory/everything original
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I got the UR rear sway bar for my 2010 camry LE today, but it only has the bushing but doesn't include the bracket that secures the bushing? Is that OK can I reuse the OEM bracket? or did they not send me everything?
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My sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
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I was having real ruff idling problems for about 4 days, especially at stop lights. When I drive on the highway no problems. Starting the car was no problem.
I could hear whistling sounds while I idled it on my driveway, figured vacuum leak or pcv valve. I replaced the valve and the boot, but still had the problem.
I could still hear whistling sound then I noticed my pcv assembly hose was broken where it branches off to the intake. (See pic)
So I went to dealer and got the tubing. I installed it today. Now I try to start it and it sounds like it's not getting enough gas and it even turned off on me at the store. Once the car is on however, when I'm at a stop light the problem idling is gone.
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