Kia - Spectra :: 2007 Missing When First Warms Up
Dec 22, 2012
I just replaced the ignition coil as recommended by the computer and the car ran fine for a few days. Now it starts missing about a mile after starting, for a while. Then it almost never misses after it is fully warmed up. The computer does not find any issues at this time.
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we just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
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Recently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
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I got a new ipr an looking in the oil pump end there's a small spring with a screw n the middle. Is this a pressure adjustment for the valve or what any body no. I have a 97 power stroke that when i start it cold idles fine as engine warms it starts to miss . I have changed everything i mean everything but ipr and map sensor.
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One day after my mechanic replaced the heater core my truck started to misfire after the motor warms up and is under load. No codes and nothing pops up when hooked up to o a scanner. It's been cold in the morning and when I start it up it runs like a top. But after it warms up it start to miss a little, then it gradually gets worse especially when under a load at higher speeds. I thought it was a vacuum hose or something got left unplugged.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
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My feed truck (2001 ext cab 4x4 7.3 198k) had a cold starting issue I fixed with new gp relay. Now I noticed when it gets down below 30 degrees it has a cylinder miss until motor warms up. I don't doubt injectors are in my future. I was wondering though if that is common for worn injectors or if maybe something else has gone haywire and how long can I run it like that before something else tears up? after about 7-10 min the miss goes away and I don't notice it. I would like to get through the winter before messing with it or having injectors put in it...
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My 2007 Kia spectra is losing transmission fluid but not leaving a spot user the car where is it going?
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My 2007 Kia Spectra makes a slow, faint scraping sound when I make a hard right turn. The sound comes from the front end. It doesn't happen during slow right turns, left turns, driving straight, or braking. It isn't the creaking/groaning sound of a ball joint or the "click-click-click" of a CV joint.
I've been researching, and it looks like it could be a variety of things, from a loose lug nut to a loose hub cap to a loose brake caliper to a bad wheel bearing. Which of these problems it's most likely to be.
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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The car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
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I bought a used 2007 Tacoma truck from a Toyota dealer in July with 53,000 miles. After driving it for 5000 miles, I took it to my local mechanic for an oil change. He, being the good mechanic that he is, checked the air filter. To his surprise, there was no filter element in there! He put one in and told me about his discovery. My question to you is this - how much damage could have been done to the motor in the 5000 miles I drove it without an air filter? I intend to tell the dealer, but first I'd like to know what effects this missing filter could have on the truck so I know how much to ask for from the dealer.
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My right radio knob is missing. It's really annoying, where I can get a replacement?
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2007 F-150 4x4 reg cab
Trying to get my trailer plug to work. Don't have a owners manual. Looked in fuse box, fuses 104 , 114 , 107 and 118 are missing?
Need to know what they are? Also look for fuse numbers that have anything to do with trailer plug.
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The drivers-side black plastic strip on the roof of my '07 Prius is 'missing'. Should I have a body shop take care of this, the dealer, can I do it? It looks pretty straight forward to replace, but I'm concerned about how it's molded to the windshield 'gasket', like it's one piece.
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I just noticed yesterday that on my windshield, next to the wipers, I'm missing a molding piece. I think that's why there are some wind noise in that area. Attached are two pictures. The one of the passenger side you can see the black molding. The one of the driver side is missing it. What is the part number?
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My 07 xlt 4x2 4.6 (49700 miles) started missing a couple of weeks ago. Did it for 2 days, the Check Engine light came on, then it quit missing and ran normal. CE light was still on, so I had the code read and reset light. Got two codes: ignition missfire #8, and rich fuel. I assume the rich fuel was caused by raw gas in the exhaust.
Anyway, the truck ran fine for two or three days then started missing again. Checked #8 by taking the wiring connector off #8 COP - rough idle unchanged. Pulled COP off #8 and #7 and swapped. Rough idle unchanged and confirmed miss was still #8 by pulling COP connector. With #8 connected, disconnected #7 (with COP from 8) idle was significantly worse.
Replaced #8 plug. Same miss. What to check next?
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Kia Spectra have a problem with coolant swishing around behind the dashboard? Any permanent repair for this? After having the coolant purged of air, it is quiet for, at best, 2 months.
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I just bought my kia from its first owner and love it. However, one of the first issues I came across was when I tried to turn the car off and the key stuck in the ACC position. I've had this happen nearly half the time I turn the key. My best fix for it is to turn the car back over and continue to try turning it off. Sometimes it needs a forceful turn to get it to work. I brought it to the dealership and they "couldn't duplicate it" but factored out it being an issue with the stealing deterrent the car has built in. My husband hasn't had issue with it either so now they are looking at me. I swear it happens a lot! I've tried turning the wheel, lifting the key in the process of the turn, being gentler with the turn, everything. It's still happening.
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
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