Kia - Spectra :: 2004 - Clutch Progressively Sticks To The Floor
Aug 25, 2012
I drive a 2004 Kia spectra (base model) w/ 93k
My clutch would start out fine as I start the car, but after pressing on the clutch pedal for about 40-60 times on one trip, it'll start to loose pressure & becomes stickier. And as I press on the clutch pedal more & more, the problem gets progressively worse to the point where I have to manually pull the clutch back up with the tip of my foot.
I also notice that when I drive with the air conditioning, the problem would precipitate earlier & clutch response deteriorates much quicker. But when I let the car rest for a couple of hours or overnight, the clutch response would slowly return, and eventually be normal again.
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I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
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2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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When depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
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I have a 2009 stick-shift 4WD ford ranger with a clutch that is sticky in 1st and reverse. Basically it requires alot of force to push it into 1st or reverse, but this problem isnt always there, and it the problem dosnt seem to pop up under any particular circumstances - e.g.: the weather, if the tuck has been driven recently etc. I paid $5000 for extended warranty when i bought this truck new, and the dealer repair shop tells me that they can't tell me if it is covered under warranty until they take it apart to see if the problem is a "wear item" .
If it's not covered under warranty then I am stuck with the $700 bill. Otherwise the truck runs great, and I have never had any work done under the extended warranty. The warranty runs out soon, and I am wondering whether to take a chance with a rebuild. My wife dosnt like to drive the truck with the clutch like that because she is afraid of getting stuck at a stoplight and being unable to engage the gear.
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having some issues with my idle, when im coasting and i push in the clutch it doesnt drop down to idle like it used to it sticks at about 2000 when its dropping, also at a stop light the idle will rise up and hunt from 1700 to 2300 or so. also if im in a parking lot in second gear or so the rpms will rise and accdelerate the vehicle.
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My buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
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I have a 2004 Kia Spectra (it is actually a 04/05 split year that generally takes the 05 parts) and when we turn on the car, sometimes the air conditioning/heat doesn't work. I can feel a little cold/warm coming out, but when I turn it higher nothing blows out at all. I can sometimes get it to work properly after driving for like 5 minutes on the highway with the radio off. Other times it turns on right away, but if I stop at the store and turn off the car, the next time it will stop working. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2004 Kia Spectra EX (2.0L Engine) that has begun to sputter and hesitate when I am accelerating, regardless of whether I am accelerating from a standstill or on the highway. It feels like the engine is either not getting enough gas, or that the air/gas mixture is not correct. The car has almost 150,000 miles and we have recently (within last 10,000 miles) changed the spark plugs and air filters. Where to begin looking? The car, from what I can find, does not have a PCV; otherwise, that would be my first suspicion.
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2004 - Kia spectra... Car is parked and not running, and in morning go out to car inside is frozen, inside windows of car freezes.. What could be causing it
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I have a 1995 Infiniti G20. I was driving and everything was fine when my clutch went straight to the floor. It was incredibly arduous to pull back up, now the clutch is very stiff, almost impossible to push down. What could the problem be?
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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Looking at buying this used 2004 F150 and the Seller says it has a problem with the ignition switch; that it continues to run the starter even after the engine is running, which burns out the starter. He's an obvious layperson and doesn't know much about mechanical stuff (or he's pretending, IDK).
This sounds very strange to me, because if it's some kind of mechanical defect/factory defect, it's something that Ford should have identified, documented, issued a recall maybe, or something, yet when I research the issue the only thing I find is a problem with ignition switches that cause fires in model years that end in 2003 (not 2004). Other than that I find no documentation.
I wonder how accurate the Seller's description is, or maybe it's defective due to some other reason, like maybe a car thief shoved something into the ignition and damaged it, or possibly corrosion. Or maybe it's simply "sticky" and some spray lubricant would fix it.
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I have a 2001 jetta with a Vr6 the clutch petal just goes to the floor. No return. What's could be wrong?
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I have a funky screaming noise coming from my clutch when I press the clutch in down to the floor if I don't press it to the floor it doesn't make noise
and car still drives fine what is this noise. It makes a noise like when you over start the car it's weird. I never heard anything like this before is it a new clutch. I need or new throw out bearing of do I need to breed the clutch?
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So over the weekend my clutch pedal stuck to the floor 2 times and would not come all the way up on several occasions. It has since then stopped doing it. I am wondering if I should bleed my clutch or not. Flush and change fluid?
Just concerned it may turn worse.
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Just got in my car and the clutch went to the floor and stayed there when I stepped on it. What are the steps to diagnose this problem? I'm assuming my slave cylinder went kaput!
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I picked up my Santa Fe yesterday. 7 seater Premium manual.
However the clutch does not seem to disengage until very close to the floor almost to the extent that I feel the gears crunch and r a little notchy in use because of this ???
Is this a characteristic of the manual gearbox for the new model ???
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Facts: 1999 Vw passat 1.8t
1 year ago, clutch pedal would not come up off the floor, no life in the pedal.
Problem: Clutch master cylinder, replaced.
6 months ago, clutch finally went bad. Took car to clutch shop, replaced clutch kit(found out after i payed that they only turned the dual-mass flywheel... ). Get car from clutch shop, the clutch pedal came up only 2-3 inches off the floor by itself but you could lift the pedal with your hand or foot, and it would come back up all the way, but it was life-less. It was not pulling fluid in. It was catching extremely low. I called the shop, they said that it was just because it was a new clutch and it would get better. I didn't believe them.
Two days ago, I got into my car and couldn't get it into gear. Clutch pedal would go down with the same amount of force as before. Took it back to the clutch shop and explained the history with the clutch master and then them doing the clutch kit. They said it wasn't bleeding properly and they're not sure if its going to have problems again. Car is working now, but I am concerned that it will have similar problems again.
The tech who fixed it said he pumped fluid into it extremely hard, and that's what made the pedal come up all the way (no longer stops 2 inches off the floor) and its going into gear just fine now. What the problem might have been? Block in the hydraulic lines? If this is the case, does forcing fluid through it fix it?
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50k Miles on my clutch. Was driving a couple weeks ago on the highway and clutch stuck to the floor. At first I thought it was my Slave cylinder. Got the trans out this weekend to find the mess (below) inside my bell housing. Obviously need a new clutch now and will still replace the slave while I am in there.
Cars setup is around 375ish whp. I know I could spend 1300 bucks and call it a day for a clutch master or south bend but was seeing if there is a cheaper alternative.
Also If I were to buy an OEM clutch or an upgraded one that was not rated for up to 400~whp would it drive and pull the same as a fully upgraded one just not last as long?
6 Speed ...
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