Kia - Soul :: 2013 - Won't Start And Just Seemed Dead
May 29, 2016
I bought my 2013 Kia Soul last October. There were times when it wouldn't start, and just seemed dead. It would start after a few tries, but one day, that didn't work either. I walked the battery to an auto parts place to get a new one, but when they tested it, they said it's full of charge. So, I walked back, put it in the car, and the car started. This happened a few more times, so I took it in for a new starter. They said nothing was wrong with the starter, so I paid the diagnostic and got in the car, but it wouldn't start for me to leave the repair shop.
So, they put in a new starter. I had no problems for a couple of months, but it's happening again. When it does it, everything shuts off, not just the engine, but the lights and everything. I have been lucky that the car is light and easy to push, so I can get it somewhere that it's pointing downhill. Once I get it rolling, everything comes back on, and I drive away. This seems like a common problem, because, when I was in college, I remember guys on my street who had cheap cars they had to start by rolling them. But, they had old beaters. Mine is only 3 years old. What is going on?
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I was having problems starting my 2010 Kia Soul after adding gas. Didn't matter if I was filling it or just adding $10. No one knew what the problem was. I called a guy who used to fix my cars years ago and he immediately told me to go get a Canister Purge Valve. He put it in in under 10 minutes and my car starts every time now.
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My 2013 has been problem free until this afternoon when I went to leave work - it simply wouldn't start, maybe a dead/low battery? It's a 2013 Prius II and just hit 40k this week and now due for service, so maybe I'll have them look into it?
Today was very hot around 100*, around noon I went to get something from passenger side and decided to crack the windows. Instead of going to the other side I reached across the console and pushed start which gets it into whatever mode it's called. Pushed the brake with a hand while pushed button again to turn on and operate window controls. Then I pushed start again to turn car off, which turned off display as normal. When I went to start it 5 hours later I got nothing.
No dash light up, dim dome light, door open light was on with door open so I knew there was some measure of power, I think I saw a check engine light near the door open light lit up at some point in my attempts too. I popped hood open to see where the battery was at, lol, it's not in the engine bay. In my frustration I finally started noticing a "buzz" sound of some part in the engine bay. Tried to figure out what it was - all I know is it's mounted on the firewall in front of driver, about knee height, behind/below the brake and power steering reservoir. I was kinda able to get my hand far enough to confirm it was buzzing/moving/active by touching a finger to it. Was able to get it to turn off with sever pushes of the start button - maybe the car was cycling the different "on" modes without turning on?
So I decided to try and jump the car. Friend who's borrowing a car luckily had jumpers - the weirdest looking jumpers I've ever seen. They were thinner gauge and super flexible, they were also two separate strands instead of being connected like normal jumpers. Anyways, I got nothing out of it. Was about to give up when someone id called showed up - used their jumpers thinking maybe the weird ones were bad. Immediately got a spark when I put the negative on the strut bolt, confirming I had juice.
Prius started immediately as "normal" (no idea how a hybrid starts after a jump...). Stereo was working, headlights, dome lights, windows - basically like nothing happened. I did notice the battery indication was a little lower than normal, but still had just below 1/2 bars. If it were low I'd imagine it would be lower. It never gets above 3/4 bars for me unless I'm coasting down a mountain for a while.
Dead/low 12v battery? What's the part that was buzzing?
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2013, 6000 miles, parked in garage Fri night and Sat morning would not start, no lights no electrical at all. Charged all day Sat and today still would not start or any signs of starting. Battery clean and tight.
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I have a 2012 Kia Soul with 27,000 miles and the clutch needs replacing. I've driven standard transmission vehicles for 45 years (sad to say) and have never had a worn clutch. How can I tell if the original clutch truly is worn or is defective? This is rather critical if it's the former (i.e. worn), I'm out $1400.00; if it's defective, the manufacturer pays.
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Our 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
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I don't have any lights or gauges working at all. The sonata car picture comes up when I get in but once the car is started this goes away too. Headlights and interior lamp is about the only thing working on the car. 2013 Hyundai Sonata?
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I have an IS 350 but I am trying to get the part number for the dead pedal for the 2014 + GS F sport. I tried calling my local lexus dealer (which is 50 miles away) and they won't give me the part number over the phone w/o a vin number. Now if someone can ask their parts deptn for a vin number, it can be provided.
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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2013 Elantra GT. Right-hand power socket under center console is dead. Does not appear to be connected to fuse box? How to activate it when the ignition is switched on?
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July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
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I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
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I got my V8 back from a dead battery for the 2nd time. As usual, they have not found the problem. They said that there isn't any battery drain and the battery holds a charge. This time I took it back to my dealer I purchased from, not that it means anything.
I know there have been a lot of talk about different things that are causing the problem/ fixing the problem, but I have noticed that it may not be some of the ECU's, Navi/radio, etc. but could it be that when the vehicle is actually running the Alternator may not be charging the system significantly while driving when things are turned on, as in multiple things like AC/Heater, Fogs, heated seats, etc at the same time? Reason is that I have noticed with my V8, if you turn off all of these things the voltage gauge reads very close to 14 Volts and when you turn them on, it drops/cycles to about 13.75-13.5 volts. The dealer loaned me a V6 Touareg and with all these things on, the Voltage Gauge read 14 Volts solid most of the time or pretty close to. Meaning that the Alternator may be keeping up with all the things turned on (Current Draw).
With my V8, if you have these things on and you are running around town starting/ stopping without driving it for a period of time the Alternator may not be sufficiently charging the battery and then when you park it like overnight with the normal drain on the system in off state you may not be able to start it. Could there be something there or am I way off? Since they are always looking at the battery and if there is any drain on the system when it's off, is the alternator keeping up with the Touareg's requirements when it is running?
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Towncar. About once a month when I get gas and try to start after, the car is "DEAD"!!! The battery is OK and all the gauges come on but no sound-not a click! I have replaced the battery and the starter (twice), but my mechanic doesn't have a clue. After about 5-10 minutes the car will start.
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I've got a 90 240 DL that stopped dead and won't restart. Hit it with starter fluid and it fires off, but stops. Had no way of testing fuel pressure, so replaced in-line pump. Tank pump runs, can hear it through filler opening. Problem persists, even with new pump and filter. Pulled vac line to FPR but no gas leaks there. Also, new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, new air filter. Pulled MAF sensor plug, still no start. Checked FP relay (also spare) and jumped FP relay to test. No go. Where do I go now? Should I check computer codes? Replace FP regulator, crank sensor? Everything? Can the on-board computer be bad?
Trying to find a path to go on since the new pump seems to give plenty of pressure.
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My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
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I have a 2.5 years old V6 Touareg with 56k miles. I went out of town for 5 days........Come back and the car is dead: meaning nothing is working, no electrical, nothing. I had to use the physical key to open the door lock. I then tried to start it - nothing and the key got locked in the ignition.
My question is - what can this be? A battery? If yes, how do I replace it? Any other resolutions? This never happened before in 56k miles. Not quite sure what to think. Is there a way to jump this car?
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I had several incidents where the car would not start & the battery was dead after the car sat a few days. After my shop checked & could not find a specific cause we ended in replacing the the battery & the clamps that held it. The car was fine for a month and then it went dead again after being left unused for 4 days. I wondered if my shop had the proper equipment to find problem. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it.
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I've been out of town for a week and left my almost new 2010 sitting in my carport spot. When I just went outside to start her up it is completely dead. Keyless entry wouldn't work so I used the key that pops out. Put the key by the start button and tried starting. Nothing happens. No lights. No nothing.
I guess I could have left something on maybe? This is pretty concerning! I don't know what to do! I don't even know how to jump start the thing. Would Toyota tow it for me for free if needed?
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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