Kia - Sedona :: Revving At Higher RPM Then Down To Lower Level After Few Minutes Of Warming Up
Mar 21, 2011
I have begun to notice that when I start my van each morning for the first time that it is reving at a higher RPM then it did back during the winter. During the winter it may have been around 1000rpms at start before lowering down after a few minutes. Now it is starting at about 1500 and then returning down to the lower level after a few minutes of warming up. Could the change in outside temps cause this?
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About 8 months and 12k miles ago I had the trans in my 2007 Explorer V6/auto completely rebuilt – now has about 89k. In the last couple of days when pulling away it has intermittently (maybe once a day) sounded like a loud fan was revving, which was accompanied by what I believe is trans slippage. Yesterday it seem to get more regular, at idle it revved itself up to about 2k rpm without moving while I was sitting at a red light, felt like the trans was slipping and then the communication section of the dashboard flashed red with a thermometer. As the warning was red, the engine temp gauge went to hot, as soon as the fan sound and slippage issue stopped (after about 10-15 seconds) the message went away and the engine temps gauge went back down to normal. What may cause this? Also, how long a dealership should warranty a its trans work?
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This is after a few minutes of the car warming up.. I'm concerned do to the fact that I've only owned the car for two weeks .
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My Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
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Last night during the East Coast's snow storm, I left my 2004 Prius warming for 10 minutes in park. I have a newborn and wanted the car warm for her. When I got back outside to leave, the Prius had died. The check engine light was on, but that was on before because I need to get the oil changed.
I went to jump start it, but when I opened the hood, I could hear that the engine seemed to still be running - it sounded like the belts were still going. So I was nervous to jump start it with the engine still seemingly on. I waited 30 minutes and that noise stopped.
When I tried to jump start it, I couldn't get the fuse box cover off after an hour of trying at 10PM, in the snow and rain. So I gave up and will try again later today.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
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Just this week my ESC light has come on and stayed on. Seems like the engine has been revving a bit higher too along with this light. Could this be a coincidence? The car doesn't seem to handle any differently. How to get this light off?
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I just brought my 2011 Prius to the dealership today after the check engine light came on. Last night, the car was intermittently revving at a high level, but otherwise the car as running fine. The service technician was saying it was the VSV valve that was intermittently sticking. I was told that there was a software update on this valve that might take care of the problem; I asked about the lifespan for the valve, but he had no information about that. I told him to just do the software update, but now I'm wondering if I should also replace the valve.
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Today I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
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Having DTC of P0507? Engine is revving a bit higher at idle than normal.
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What exactly influences MAF readings to be higher or lower? For example I am running similar boost and timing to other Stage 1 cars but my MAF peaks at 238 g/s while others are in the 250's I have heard that you can relate MAF to power but its not exact. I have a Forge Twintake and Stage 1 tune, I have been looking at peoples logs all night and I don't understand why my MAF is reading lower than other Stage 1 and 1+ cars.
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I feel that I press the gas pedal less when the battery is at high level to get to same speed than when the battery is at low level. Is it true? I am operating in Eco mode, but I am staying in ev region with ev indicator on during the comparison. High means 7 bars, low means 3 bars.
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So I changed my oil today and added about 9.8 - 9.9 quarts. There was just a little left in the second 5 quart jug. I carefully added some oil while checking the dip stick frequently. I made sure the level was just at (maybe a hair above) the top dot on the dip stick. After that, I went out for a spirited drive.
Now 4 hours later, when the car is relatively cool, I checked the level again. However, the level is now significantly higher than before. It's definitely past the top dot, not by a lot, but definitely more than before.
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How to change the level of the driver and/or passenger seat (not the back of the seat, just the seat height itself), or is it impossible?
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Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
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I didn't know how else to word this, but I know that the Prius has a few "stages" it goes through as it heats up to a certain temperature and whatnot...
Here's why I'm posting, in summary: I have a 2006 with 115K. When I was driving a 150 mile trip, for the first 30-45 minutes on cruise at 72mph, my mileage was very poor, much lower than average (40-42mpg). But after about 45 minutes, I slowed down for some construction area, then resumed cruising at 72mph, it jumped to about 48-49 mpg for the rest of the trip.
For the first 45 mins, it felt like it was struggling, because I could feel like the ICE rpm's were higher than normal for that speed. I even tried to gun it to 80+ and coast down, but it still felt like it was working hard. Finally, when I slowed down to 60-ish, then sped back up, it started operating normally.
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I have a camry 2000 automatic transmission with 150 K on it. For last few months I am having this sporadic issue with it having difficulty to change the gear from lower to higher gear(from the first to second, i guess). It goes like this, when i start speeding up the car, its having difficulty to move to higher gear, it just revs up to like 5 - 6 K rpm and with a jerk it shifts the gear. And at the same time check engine light goes on. And during the time this check engine light is on, it does this same thing a couple of times or so.
Then after some time the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine without any issues for some tine and then the same thing happens again and after some time the issue and the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine again. this keeps happening every few weeks. So I took the car to the mechanic (check engine light has gone away at this time, who told the code was showing some "speed sensor" issue and they replaced this. After that the car ran just fine for a couple of months. But its starting to do the same thing again.
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I got this "Failed MAF" along w/this "circuit condition or idle speed is higher/lower than expected" codes when I hooked up my car, what does this mean????
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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My sport trac has just started having a very strange problem. When I start the truck none of the gauges on the dashboard work... not the indicators or the RPM or the speedometer. The gas gauge will visibly move higher when I brake and lower when I accelerate.
But a few min after I start driving everything pops on. What could be causing this?
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