Kia - Sedona :: 2001 - Slight Loss / Engine Is Burning The Oil?
Apr 9, 2012
I have a 2001 Kia Sedona mini van with about 148,000 miles on teh 6 cylinder engine. Since about the first of the year I have noticed a slight loss of engine oil over the past 4 months. It appears to be maybe about a quarter of a quart for about every 1000 miles or so. Up until then I had no issue with loss of oil. It is not leaking out that I can see as there are no drip signs on the underneath or ground, I have had no loss of antifreeze so am not sure how or where the oil might be going. My dad said that as some engines age and with this engine being now almost 11 years old with that many miles it wouldn't be out of line that the engine is "burning" the oil. Not sure what he means by that, but what might be a reason/s for the slight loss of oil.
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My 91 corolla likes to lurch and misfire. Also there seems to be a slight loss of power to the engine. Clutch isn't slipping. What's going on? friend said it might be the distributor.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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I was driving around running errands when my AC stopped blowing cool air, a funny kind of "metallic" burning smell was coming from the engine, and there was a slight knocking noise that was apparently coming from the engine and would go faster as I accelerated.
My car is still under warranty so I know stuff will be covered. My question is : what the heck is going on with my Santa Fe? I need to know whether I should call into work or drive it anyways.
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I have a 2001 Pathfinder w/ ~190K mile on it. It has been used regularly until this past winter. It has been sitting for about 3.5 months and I'm just now getting it back on the road. The battery has been draining due to non-use but I charge it and the car will start. Today I started it and after running for about 2 minutes the engine quit. When I got in the car I noticed the strong smell of electrical burning but no smoke. I did not notice this outside of the car. Upon trying to restart the car the engine just cranks with no sign of trying to start (as if there's no spark). I suspect something (probably electrical) has failed while it was idling but what it could be.
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I can see no sign of oil leakage or oil burning. The car runs great, about 159M miles. Yet, it goes through 4 qts of oil every 1000 miles. If you don't check it frequently, it suddenly is 'dry' and takes several quarts to bring back on the stick to full. There is a little puff when first starting of light smoke, then nothing out of the ordinary.
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Over the last 6 months I've have to add at least a couple quarts of oil between oil changes but I can't figure out where it's going. it's not burning oil (as far as I can tell) nor can I detect any leaks. I thought it might be a head gasket but I would have assumed I would see some oil residue around the crank case but it looks relatively clean. the car has 174K miles and is otherwise in good running condition. Why I can to add so much oil? I'm also using high-mileage oil for each oil change.
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I've put almost 3K miles on my Prius C and there have been times when I've gone up a long hill that required spending a lot of time in the red POWER zone. For example climbing up into the Berkeley hills, but always on a less steep switchback route. Quite often by the time I get to the top I can smell something like a mild burning coming from the engine. I imagine this is a normal reaction from the motor to being used to get up a long hill, but it is unnerving anyway. It is noticeable inside the cabin also, but more pronounced over the hood.
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.
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My Kia Sedona, 2006, has stalled on my approximately 6 times. Everything in the car works, lights, radio,... and yet the engine is locked out. Sometimes in 15 minutes I can start the engine again and other times no luck. NHTSA indicates there are electrical wiring system issues yet no one at Kia can figure it out. And no one will admit there is a problem.
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About a week ago while driving to work my engine sputtered a bit and the CEL came on and then went off. As I drove the sputtering reoccurred when I would accelerate from being stopped but went away when I got to higher speeds. Again the CEL came on. Next day I took it to the dealership who read a P306 code and was told it was an issue with the No. 6 cylinder. After driving a few more miles the sputtering stopped happening. The next day I got in, started the van and no more CEL. That was last Wed, and since then I have done over 150 miles of driving and no sputtering and the CEL has not come back on. Could I have just gotten some bad gas or something that caused the brief sputtering and CEL.
2002 Kia Sedona, 6 cylinder147,000 miles
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I have a 2006 Kia Sedona which has done 57000 miles. For the last 2 weeks I have been having starting problem. When I turn the key there is no 'starting sound', the lights, radio and the AC start working but the engine does not start up at all. After several attempts and after keeping the key in 'ignition on' position the engine fires up and starts running.
It has been happening intermittently and fortunately for me it happened at the dealer and they are saying it is a short circuit in starter motor and the entire starter has to be replaced. It is covered by the warranty but I want to know if thats what is wrong. A friend of mine who had similar problems was saying that he had to replace starter 3-4 times before they discovered that a wire was defective which was not sending enough amps to start the engine. What to do.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey. The other day while driving, and today after just starting up, the car makes a whining noise, multiple lights on the dash illuminate (charge, all door open indicators, brake, and brake light bulb indicator) and when I open the hood I can smell a slight burning smell. I thought maybe something was frozen, but the belt is not unusually warm, and all the pulleys I can see are turning.
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I have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
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I just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
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I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
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I just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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'95 Civic 220k 1.5 auto runs great, 40 mpg. I call her "LUKA". Recently noticed a slight loss of coolant, about 1/2 cup per 200 miles. No drips or puddles, no coolant in oil, just changed 500 miles ago and still golden and clean. I may have noticed a little more exhaust, maybe my imagination, certainly not a cloud of steam. I intend to slip a piece of cardboard under her this weekend and let her sit and alternatively run the engine to check for small leaks, can't do it right now as it rains every other day . . .
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