Kia - Rio - Airconditioning :: 2006 - AC Doesn't Work When Hot Outside
Aug 15, 2013
I have a 2006 Kia Rio. About a month ago, I noticed that the car's AC only works when it's not hot outside. For example, it works when I leave for work early in the morning, but it blows hot air later in the afternoon when the temps outside. Or yesterday, we had an unusually cool day and the AC worked fine all day! But whenever it gets hot outside, the AC will blow hot air! What could be wrong? Relay or compressor clutch, maybe?
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1992 Subaru loyale 4WD, was sitting for about 2 weeks straight without use. . . I just changed the oil and spark plugs, and now the buttons for the 4wd and air conditioning/heater do not work. I heard that these are vacuum operated. Is this a quick fix? Will it lead to other problems? Brakes??
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Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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The other day I tried to do the nav hack and dvd playback in motion. I read through the instructions multiple times and followed them correctly making sure to cut the right wires. At the end, the only thing that worked was the dvd playback. I even tried two different switches but no luck. Over the weekend I noticed that cruise control wasn't working. When I press the cruise control button you can see the icon in the dash but you can't "set" the speed.
So today I plugged everything back to how it was, but still the cruise control does not work. I think it has something to do with the VSS. I did search, but I only found one other guy that had the same problem but it was never posted if he solved it.
I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash but they are all okay. How to reset the VSS or where the fuse for it may be? I'm going to try unplugging the battery and seeing if that does anything.
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I just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?
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My 2005 Legacy GT(151k) developed an AC issue. Sometimes it simply does not work when you start the car. Other times perfectly. I typically shut the climate control off(automatic) as I cannot stand hot air blowing on me. I have found it does kick on sometimes latter in drive. Or even just works fine.
I got lucky on my Acura MDX 07 with a similar issue but was able to google a known issue with AC clutch relay. It was fixed for $6 relay from Honda dealer. This part seems more expensive on the Subaru (OEM).
Any steps for electrical diagnosis or subie tips? I am convinced it is not refrigerant related (over my head) since the AC works the same as brand new when working.
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About 3 weeks ago i have noticed that the right headlight doesn't work. I assumed its the bulb and bought a set from kbcarstuff. Installed them today and it still doesn't work. I tried to swap the bulbs and non of them worked in the right headlight and all of them worked fine in the left one. I assumed it is a fuse and went to check it out(number 80 and 81 fuses, 15A are all sweet). Is it the ballast or something also?
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I have a 2008 Accent two door hatchback. The speedometer started jumping and then just quit along with the odometer. The odometer displays the last mileage but doesn't increase. I replaced the speedometer sensor in the side of the transmission and found two of the pins on the connector socket going to that sensor were burnt. I have now replaced the three connector, cable and it still doesn't work. The Hyundai part number for the HMC Extension cable is 43893-23011. So, I have a new cable and new sensor. What next?
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I got me new accent 2011 but my odo doesn't display the computer trip that display the mileage and shift indicator and other stuff only show the km and trip....
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I recently purchased a GS350 from auction, thought it ran and drove, got it home, the car had a blown motor. it was an insurance scam from what i gathered. well, car is running and driving now, everything works great not a single warning light on the dash, but i do have a problem with the power windows.
The pass side front and rear windows wont go down, the seat memory doesn't work, and the window switches are flashing... i tried reprogramming them as one of the posts said by lowering the window half way etc that's fine but my pass side window wont go down at all. all fuses check out. and my sunroof works like it should. does this sound like a Module inside the door issue?
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I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
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AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
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My wife and I drove our 1998 BMW Z3 from Kapoho, the easternmost point of the big island of Hawaii to volcanoes national Park. This is about a 30 mile drive and you're going from sea level to 4000 feet. We were going up there to meet some friends driving over from Kona to tour the national Park. By the way these friends are from Boston and the husband and I went to school together at Michigan Tech in the 60s. Anyway we meet them in their jeep and tour around the park with them because our car is only two seater. When we're done we are going to drive back down to our house and spend the night. I purposely left the gas go way down in the tank of the Z3 in order to fill it up with ethanol free gas because we don't drive this car much and it sits a lot.
I asked my wife if she would like to drive the Z3 with the other couples wife while I drove their jeep with my friend her husband. We had agreed to stop at a glassblowing shop on the way down the hill called 2400°F. When we stopped there my wife explained that she had a really hard time shifting is the Z3 and when I drive it the rest of the way home, I had a hard time shifting, it felt like I couldn't really disengage the clutch completely and it was hard to get into first and reverse gear. All the time the low gaslight is now on. I get to the only station that sells ethanol free gas and fill it up. Of course the gas light warning light is off now but now it now shifts perfectly?????. It drives home fine all the rest of the way. What is going? How or why does the gas warning light being on make it hard to disengage the clutch?
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Rear wheels aren't engaging. Truck is running on front wheel drive. They checked transfer case and differential fluids all is good with no signs of metal or broken parts inside. Truck drivers fine on dry and wet pavement no weird noises or vibrations. When I drove in snow the traction control light would come on as normal and when I'm getting stuck instead of the rear wheels causing the AWD Malfunction light comes on for about 5-10 seconds. And turns off. When car was on lift The drive shaft was able to be turned as if on neutral. Question is that normal? Maybe electronically disengages from transfer case? Anyway. A whole day at the service now they want to stay with the vehicle.
I have attached the light that comes on and off when the front wheels spin and no traction. Between 5 and 6 on the tach.
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Started having problems with one of the key fobs for my '09 Prius about a year ago. Battery change, perked up a bit, but then started malfunctioning. At first, wouldn't unlock car doors, then wouldn't start car. Will do so if insert into the fob receptacle, but not remotely.
I'm trying again to revive it, since it only lasted 4-5 months before. Won't unlock car doors again, etc. Unlock button does not appear to be stuck - you can feel it "clicking" when you press it, so it doesn't appear to be the stuck button problem.
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My AUX doesn't seem to work (had the IPOD plugged into the M-M cable and the other end plugged into the AUX in the glovebox). When I hit CD nothing happens, when I hold it down, I get CD-MIX. When I hit SAT multiple times it cycles through SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, but never shows AUX. I don't see anything regarding AUX in the manual either.... I have recoded my instrument panel to UK among a couple other vagcom mods. Can I fix this with the VAGCOM? Can I upgrade the firmware via a CD?
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With my wife's Prius, my key doesn't work anymore, wirelessly. I thought that putting the key into the slot would possibly recharge a battery in the key, but even after very long trips, the key will not unlock the car if it's in my pocket. I can only unlock or lock the doors by removing the actual key in the fob. And then I can only start the car with the key fob in the dash holder. I assume there has to be a battery in there, so is it replaceable by the dealer?
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So I changed out my cupholder yesterday, which required the removal of the a/c knobs and everything and when I put everything back, I realized the mode knob (feet/rear defrost/etc) didn't turn at all. I came home and lined the knob back up and it now turns as it did, the cable behind the panel turns with the knob so it looks like it's doing something but it isn't. I imagine the cable came unhitched from something or other, considering it seems to be moving but I have no clue how it was before.
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I am facing a discouraging situation here w/ my Phaeton: the trunk does not work, the mechanic called it quits and VW Dealership wants $32k and 3-6months in order to replace the car's electrical harness.
So here are some details regarding the problem:
1. It started by not opening the trunk when using the door switch. only the remote key.
2. Then, it wouldn't lock the trunk (it would open all the way and close)
3. After a few more days, it wouldn't open/close the trunk or lock it. (it would work once in a while, and sometimes the trunk would open/close just half way)
4. As or right now, the trunk opens and closes most of the time, but it doesn't lock.
I replaced the trunk hatch(lock), the hydraulic pump that opens and closes it, new battery and fuses. The mechanic worked on it on several occasions doing all the replacements and calibration, computer reset and all that.
I'm guessing it might be an electrical problem, a loose contact or interrupted wire given the nature of the problem (intermittent operation). But I don't know where to start looking...
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Owner of a 2012 GTI here. So for some reason that I have yet to re create, my passenger map light doesnt work sometimes. It seems to work sometimes but only when I do a full close and re-open of the car. When my doors open, they both should light up, but one doesn't. Even if I press the button.
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Took my mom's new Jetta to the store today and went to unlock the trunk with the fob and it would work. Ended up unlocking the whole car and doing it that way. Tried it again at home and still nothing. The car is brand new and this was the first time using that feature. I've unlocked the trunk on my MKIV using the fob before and no problems. If its something simple, we don't really want to take it to the dealer because people aren't exactly careful.
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