Kia - Optima :: 2006 - At Start Up Sound Rough And Getting Louder At Higher RPMs
Dec 20, 2013
.I know this post sounds odd but its true. My wife has a 2006 Kia Optima with 197,000 miles and NOTHING has gone wrong. Well almost nothing. We've only had to replace the water pump and windshield wiper motor. We have it the oil changed and fluids checked and topped off before the factory recommendation. We bought the car in 2008 with 15,000 miles. Most of her miles are highway, to and from work.
Now my question. Its starting to sound rough, like its getting louder at higher RPM's. The ride was never smooth but it feels like the suspension is wearing out a bit. Should I risk taking it to a shop, having them look at it and tell me 1,000 that need to be replaced or fixed, or do we just let it ride until the wheels fall off? I feel like the old "if it aint broke, don't fix it" saying applys here. I had a friend tell me I should have really had the timing belt replaced by now. So Im kind of at a loss.
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I bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
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Kia Optima LX: I have a 2006.5 kia optima. I am replacing my stock radio. I have hooked up plenty of radios with out trouble in all o my old cars.
I have hooked up this radio to where I am only getting power to turn the radio on with out sound. I do not know what I am doing wrong. I have hooked up all the wiring according to the radio insert.
I have heard something with the stock amp which I have located in the trunk on the rich side wheel well area. I can not see what I need to change or if I need to.
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I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
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I have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
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Let me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
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I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
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Alright so my car is up to 112k miles, other than oil change, a battery,tires, and a new ignition (tumblers fell apart somehow) its had zero maintenance really done to it. Which I know, this means its long over due for things like spark plugs, timing belt, and other mic. stuff. Its almost all highway miles, and really has no problems. I haven't put much into it because it hardly gets driven in the summer since I ride my motorcycle. The only issue is that Indiana has had a lot of rain this year so ive been driving it more.
The Problem- for months now its made a light ticking sound on start-up for about 30 seconds, and it fades away. If I rev the engine the sound gets faster, but still takes time to go away. As of Recently, the sound has gotten louder for about the first 10 seconds, and I'm worried it may become a serious issue and leave me stranded because I drive about an hour one way to work every day. So before I start throwing parts at it, where should I start?
Timing belt?
Valve Adjustment? (not sure how to do this but I'm sure there is a guide)
Plugs?
No I'm not running a FRAM Filter, its a Mobile 1, with full synthetic oil changed about every 6-7k miles. I plan to do the belt and spark plugs as soon as I get some consistent time off, but that may not be until it gets cold again.
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In my 2007 Sonata, I hit a poorly placed high manhole cover in a dip in the road, in the dark, going 30MPH, whacked it good before I could adjust...
I then pulled the car over, it seemed to go dead, then the car did crank back up, the engine sounded much louder, like a loud rev/hum, not quiet like usual.
I next drove a mile to a c-store, transmission seemed OK, no leaks, did see a check engine light briefly, but it disappeared. Car cranked OK, headed home, same sound right at cranking and at moderate speed.
Finally, I jacked the car up on the front left, from research appears that the plastic engine shields got smacked good along the front and near the right tire and bent back quite a bit on the left side. There seems to be no other structural damage that my untrained eye could see, just one indention you'll see in a couple of the photos that I think is part of the car design at that spot.
Again, no leaks, no smoke, no caution lights of any kind now.
Photos are attached...
My Hyundai's engine now sounds like a Mustang! Hoping it's just the engine noise from these plastic covers now being bent/destroyed in some spots, exposing the engine and the typical noise you'd hear without them...
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So I get in my car, start it up. as i drive away i notice a whining noise, as the revs get higher the noise gets louder. so i push the clutch in and rev it. Got that same whining noise, gets louder as the rev goes higher etc... so i turn the car off come back a little while later and its still making that noise. It doesn't really sound like a belt noise,
It was the power steering fluid, thought it was low. I haven't checked that yet...
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I am experiencing a weird noise coming from my 1.8T AWP engine. Its kind of a buzzing, and it gets louder with higher revs. Unfortunately its hard to hear while driving as I have an exhaust on it, but in a confined space you can hear it clearly.
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Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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This car has had trouble since the get-go and am considering never buying another Kia again, but since its my only car as of right now, I need it to be running clean and good, which is not the case at the moment.
I have had another big problem with my Kia for almost a week now. Every time I crank her up, it starts fine, but then it has a horrible time idling and staying idle. After ten seconds or so, it dies out and emits a big hiss (sounds like someone is sighing, but worse).
So had a trusted friend mechanic come over and look at it. At first, he thought it could have been a clogged Cat Converter, since I have known for a while that it's bad and just don't want to spend a grand on the car since it's not even worth that much anymore. He tried running a diagnostics to see what codes were popping up, but for some reason the car doesn't want to give a code.
So my friend did an overall inspection of the car and recommended that maybe a spark plug/wire change could do the trick. It didn't. We changed it but still had the same problem.
Then he went to the trunk of my car and tested the fuel pump, which then he had a glimmer of hope since he said there was barely any pressure going to the fuel pump. So we got a new fuel pump. Can you guess what happened next? Yep, the car still had the same problem.
Then he went back to the hood and looked it over. He didn't like what he saw on the CAM sensor, so he did a test on that, too. First he ran the car with it in, and it rough idled and then died. But, interestingly enough, he took it out and the car ran a lot smoother, albeit only a couple of seconds, before it finally decided to quit. But it did run smooth, so our hope was back.
So we went back to Advanced and got a new CAM sensor. Tried it on the engine. Our hope was crushed. Same problem, rough idle, then it chokes out. Then he looked at the wires and noticed they looked pretty bad, and the next time I started it up for him, he said they "exploded".
He got on his mechanic website to look up the wiring diagrams for the car to try and find the ECU, but he didn't want to take the car apart to get to it, and it was dark, so we called it a day.
I'm going to try and get AAA to tow it to his Honda Dealership tomorrow so he can get some second opinions on it and have more tools to work with to try and get this beast running. But hopefully it could just be that faulty wiring?
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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My car is making a sort of whining noise; it sounds like some sort of tire noise, but I checked the tires and don't see anything that could be problematic. My husband checked to see if anything was rubbing, and doesn't find anything. The car is quiet when it is not moving, and the noise gets somewhat louder and slightly higher-pitched as I accelerate. It almost seems like the noise changed on a different road surface, but again, I don't see anything different with the tires. The car has about 140-150,000 on it. The noise has only been noticeable for a couple of weeks. No other problems, no change in steering or handling. No incident that I can think of that could have been a catalyst.
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I have a 2006 Camry (manual transmission) w 165K miles.
Within the last year or so, it has gotten louder, more noticeable at higher speeds. Almost sounds like a hole in the exhaust. However, shifting into lower or higher gears doesn't change the tone of the noise. Taking it out of gear completely doesn't have an effect. However driving faster does. So I'm pretty sure it is drive train related .
Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
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I own a 2006 Nissan Altima with about 90500 miles on it. Recently i took it in for service and to fix a problem where the car was making this metallic sound while driving. The mechanic discovered that the sound was caused by a low engine oil level causing the timing belt tension to lose pressure and make the sound.
The mechanic also found a Nissan Service Recall/Campaign (NTB06-082) related to Engine Oil Consumption where the following occurs: "extremely low engine oil level resulting from higher than normal engine oil consumption due to a manufacturing problem in some engines". NTB06-082 states that the first thing the dealer should do if the recall applies is reprogrammed the ECU followed by doing an engine oil check.
What steps I should follow to get the Nissan Dealership to take a look at this particular issue? I imagine that it's going to be hard convincing them that the NTB06-082 may apply to my vehicle.
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About 6 months ago my 2011 Optima alarm started going off randomly in the night, a couple times a week. It was annoying to me and the neighbors. I park on my driveway and have nothing of value in the car. Our neighborhood is a good one.
When I took it to the dealership for its 15k mileage checkup they shrugged their shoulders, said they had no idea. The next time I brought it in I reported it happening more frequently and even during the day. I also reported not hearing the chirping lock sound anymore, but that I could hear the locks engage when hitting the key fob control. They looked and looked and said that a sensor in the engine compartment had a bumper missing and they replaced it and it worked at chirping again (for a while). They had no idea on the random alarm.
My car chirps only occasionally when being locked, and it still goes off at all hours of the day. Randomly. There seems to be no conceivable pattern. Except that it goes off least when parked in my garage. Lately I have taken to leaving the car doors unlocked in my driveway so I don't have to sleep with the keys on my nightstand.
I love my Optima but am seriously considering having the horn disconnected. And no. Its not a battery issue. We put a new battery in. The problem continued immediately.
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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My 2009 Accent has some very rough shifts from 1st to 2nd when I'm in the low RPMs.
Hyundai performed a transmission fluid flush and the other gears shift completely effortlessly. Is my tranny dying or what?
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Where is the oil filter located on a 2006 1/2 Kia Optima EX V6?
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