Kia - Forte :: 2010 - Left Rear Taillight Was Out / Fuse Blows Repeatedly
Jan 31, 2013
I have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
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I've been hearing an occasional popping sound from my left front wheel area of my 2010 Kia Forte when the vehicle accelerates, decelerates, or turns. Took it in to a reputable shop and they said there was nothing wrong. Kept driving it and it got worse. Took it to the dealer and they said my lower control arm and strut are bent (well first they said they were "shot" and it took some prying to figure out what they meant by that).
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I washed and wax my wife's 2011 RX yesterday and I spotted rust around the edge of the taillight. It looks like part of the blister already break open and the other part just start forming. The car is Canadian build in Matador red mica color. Never been in any accident and never had any paintwork. I will take it in to Lexus dealer today for my SA to take an initial look. Hatch door rust issue on 3rd gen RX ??? I'm in shock that 4 years old car started to develop rust.
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2008 Wagin .... Specifically, how do I remove the reflector plate that hides the bolt?
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Just bought a jeep cherokee and it has power door locks. The previous owner stated that after a few days after replacing the fuse it blows. He did this a few times and every time the fuse blows for the power door locks.
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My 99 Passat is making a clicking sound from the fuse box, and the alarm light is blinking on and off repeatedly. My remote key no longer locks or unlocks the car. I took out fuse 38 and it stops making sound and stops the blinking, the fuse is not blown. Any clue on what to do. The other fuse for power locks and security look good also.
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Got a tire rotation a two weeks ago on my new 2013 Kia Forte (purchased in August 2012).Now, I have a very high pitched whistling noise coming from the rear tire area. The sound happens at all speeds. The sound is the worse at very slow speeds; the sound is also very bad at very slow speeds when I touch the brakes and turn the wheel.I looked at back tires from outside the car (not underneath the car). The mechanical set-up of back tires look very different than that of the front tires. The back tires have metal parts touching each other while the front tires do not.
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I have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
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My 2010 kia fortes power steering randomly stops working. If I pull over and shut the car off and restart the car the power steering works again. This started at 68,000 miles on it. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2010 Forte EX with 47,000 on it. It seems to have a "cold start" problem when temps are cold. For the first 10-15 min. when on the highway the engine starts cutting out or hesitating and the check engine light flashes off and on. It also stalls on occasion at stop lights. After those 10 min. the car runs fine. I have taken it to the Kia dealer and they have re-created the problem but was told there was no codes for the check engine light. So, apparently the dealer can't do anything without a code and Kia Corp. doesn't know what to do either! What could be causing this "cold start" problem, such as fuel pump, fuel filter etc? The dealer said they checked those things and those components check out. Are there no mechanics anymore or just computer techs that run diagnostics and let the codes tell them what is wrong?!!
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I just installed a new set of OEM LED taillights on my 02' sc430 bought the kit etc but I cannot get the dash rear taillight sensor to turn off. I called the local lexus dealer thinking they might have to reset it and spoke to the lead mechanic and he said i would need to rewire the lights.
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We have a '99 Honda Accord EX. When it rains hard, water collects in the rear right taillight. We also have an electrical short somewhere - occasionally the lights on the heater/AC controls don't work, and the heat or AC will be stuck on the last setting we used until the lights come back on again. I finally put the two together the other day, after I realized that we don't get the short when it has not been raining.
I have three questions -
(1) In order to fix the water in the taillight problem, does that require replacing the entire housing unit, or is there a cheaper fix?
(2) If the housing does need to be replaced, is this something I could do without screwing it up? I used to do my own maintenance, but that was over 20 years ago, and I haven't even done my own oil changes since then.
(3) Is it possible that the water problem is what is causing the short in the electrical system?
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How do I replace the rear taillight lense on drivers side. I was able to buy a new tail light unit. But how do I install it???
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located..
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2 days ago I was driving to a friends house and it started to rain. I put on my wipers and after 5 minutes they stopped working. I pulled over and checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I had a spare 25A fuse and replaced it on the spot. I first check the horn since it's the same fuse connection. The horn worked ok then I went on with the wiper...the second I put on the wipers the fuse blew again not even letting the wiper make one cycle.
Could it be the wiper motors? What should I do other then bring it in. I want to do it myself.
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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This is occurring on a 1997 Land Rover Discovery, but I have read of similar problems on many other "modern" cars. When I start my car, the fuse for dash gauges blows. Then with the blown fuse, the next time I try to start the car, the switch will not activate the startee solenoid relay. If I replace the dash fuse it will start again, but blow the fuse instantly, thus perpetuating the problem. This car is a beater off-road truck and I am willing to just bypass the starter switch and run a hotwired pus-button switch directly to the solenoid. Will this bypass any critical electrical operations? Should I wire the switch through the existing relay, or should I install a completely separate "siolated" relay? I having trouble tracking down how/why the starter solenoid relay would be related to the gauges....and if it is a short in the current starer solenoid circuit, can I just direct wire it to eliminate the problem?
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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This issue came on suddenly. I unplugged the license plate lights- fuse still blew. I don't know where the wire harness is for this group of wires going to these lights to check for frayed or melted wires. I don't see any damage any where. I am severely limited for funds for a mechanic so I need to try and figure this out first myself. Looking for pictures of how I can traces the wires through the car?
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I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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