Kia - Forte :: 2010 - Engine Starts Cutting Out Or Hesitating And CEL Flashes Off And On
Jan 12, 2013
I have a 2010 Forte EX with 47,000 on it. It seems to have a "cold start" problem when temps are cold. For the first 10-15 min. when on the highway the engine starts cutting out or hesitating and the check engine light flashes off and on. It also stalls on occasion at stop lights. After those 10 min. the car runs fine. I have taken it to the Kia dealer and they have re-created the problem but was told there was no codes for the check engine light. So, apparently the dealer can't do anything without a code and Kia Corp. doesn't know what to do either! What could be causing this "cold start" problem, such as fuel pump, fuel filter etc? The dealer said they checked those things and those components check out. Are there no mechanics anymore or just computer techs that run diagnostics and let the codes tell them what is wrong?!!
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I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
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My 2010 kia fortes power steering randomly stops working. If I pull over and shut the car off and restart the car the power steering works again. This started at 68,000 miles on it. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
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I've been hearing an occasional popping sound from my left front wheel area of my 2010 Kia Forte when the vehicle accelerates, decelerates, or turns. Took it in to a reputable shop and they said there was nothing wrong. Kept driving it and it got worse. Took it to the dealer and they said my lower control arm and strut are bent (well first they said they were "shot" and it took some prying to figure out what they meant by that).
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My car has been running great. It has 125,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago I did a bunch of work. I changed the plugs, air filter, timing belt, ac belt, alt, belt, cooling flush, tranny flush and brakes. Everything was great until yesterday. I wanted to test the power so I was on the highway going up this long incline going relatively fast. As I get almost to the top of the hill, my car starts hesitating losing power and check engine light comes on. I make it off the exit and sputter to a commuter parking lot. I shut the car off, check under the car for leaks and check the fluids. Everything is ok. I start the car back up and its running fine again. I drive home then I drive to the parts store to have them check the codes. No codes found. He told me that the engine light needs to be on for them to find codes.
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I have an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has twice had issues with hesitating while driving (like it's not getting gas--tank is full), then starts rattling, then dies. I had it towed to the shop 3 weeks ago. "loss of cam or crank sensor misfire codes found loose connection at pcm, connector 4, re-attach connector to lock position, erase codes". Picked it up after work was done. When driving it to work two days ago, the same exact situation presented. Had it towed again to shop. They're saying they ran it all day and cannot get any codes to come up and that 90% of the time it's the cam sensor. He also said 1/3 of the time (math issues) it's the computer. How can you know if it's the cam sensor or the computer?
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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About 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
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How do you warm up? I turn it on and it might start the engine for a few seconds then shut off... How do I know it's ready and warm?
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The first part of diagnosis is to understand how frequently this happens and hopefully find any reproducible patterns. This is an open poll running to the end of October.
ZVW30 - 1.8L Prius...
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Is it normal? I tried to find a discussion about this in this forum but couldn't find anything.
When coasting over 35 mph, when the speeds reaches 35, the engine (or ICE as you prefer) is starting for a second then stops. I really don't see why it would do that.
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I have a Prius 2010, 4 years old with 144.000 km.
The last 3 night we had temp. below freezing point. So every time I started my Prius up at the morning, the engine starts to shake violent, and then automatically shut off the engine with a message on the screen "Check Hybrid System". So after several times I restart the car, it runs normally, still with the message on. The temperature outside was -1 degree Celsius.
So I used my OBD to pick up the codes, which says P3191 - Unknown Error.
What does this error mean at what could cause this problem?
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I'm having a few issues I have 2010 corolla le.
For some reason when my daytime running lights are on my rpms drop to 600 rpms and I get a rough idle. My needle jumps up and down. Happens when car is warmed up. Once I turn my low beam on rpms go up to normal 800 rpms. No rough idle and car runs normal.
Yesterday I was parked with radio on ignition off for about 10 15 min and turned the car on and idle went really low. I Rev it up and the needle dropped to the bottom before going up. Hesitating. Did the same a 2nd time needle dropped all the way down and car shut off. I shut the car off and turned it back on and car was hesitating. Then after a few revs car was normal.
Car is running fine now no light on my dash.
Is it a throttle body problem? I cleaned throttle plate recently it's not dirty.
I'm wondering if I should replace throttle body?
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So my car stereo (center console) had been cutting in and out at random times, spoke to a tech from the garage and it seems like a lose connection is really really unlikely, that most likely the stereo is just on its way out.
So left with the option of replacing it. Is this a big task to replace/not worth it and simply go without a stereo?
It's a Nissan Rogue 2010,.
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Exhaust signal on MFI ... Yesterday in the morning this sign came few times blinking and then became solid. I felt like the engine was "hesitating" and not reacting. Later on the day it disappeared.
This morning came again. When I check the manual at section 3.1 page 39, it says something about "not enough oxygen..." Its been cold here in Charlotte NC, around 28F overnight and I am leaving the car on the driveway since we moved to a new home. Should I rush to the dealer?
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Car: 2011 Kia Forte 5 EXMileage: ~35000
My car runs fine on city speeds. I noticed this last week when I get on the highway, in between 60 & 65 MPH, I can hear a "deep" (kind of sounds like added bass) sound. It goes away when I go past 65, but the "driving sound" (no music, no a/c running) just doesn't sound as smooth as it did before I hit the 60-65 range. I get the noise again when I decelerate and pass through that range. My car does not display a Check Engine Light when this happens.
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2010 F150 XLT ... Front driver side door speaker goes from working fine, to crackling, to cutting out. It`s been doing this since the day I bought it. I've had a local audio company tell me they have seen a few new Ford with that problem.
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My engine light went on when driving about 45mph. At same time engine began to bog down, then accelerate - then bog down again.Car is a 04 pt cruiser, Chrysler 4 cylinder Engine light still on and it starts but it seems to be running roughly.
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Ignition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
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My 2012 Prius has a DRL out. When you turn the DRL's on it flashes for a second but won't stay on. I also appears there is water in the housing.
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