Jetta - Volkswagen - Fluids :: Delayed Shift When Going Uphill / RPMs Go Up To 4k
Nov 7, 2011
I bought a used VW 1.8T with Tiptronic Transmission ~88,500 miles, so I don't know what is normal and what I should be concerned with (I'm a stick shift person, bought this to be the family car). I particularly notice what seems to be a delayed shift when going up hill RPMs go up to ~4k before the shift. Is this a late shift?I've been reading a fair bit of online fora about the need to change the ATF + filter + clean the pan every 30-40k.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
View 14 Replies
Why does my engine rpms surge from 1k to almost 3k when i put it in neutral or push my clutch in ?
It's an 07 2.5 jetta with manual tranny...
View 2 Replies
I have an automatic 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GLS with 138,000 miles on it. I bought her four years ago with 91,000 miles. Right after I got her, I noticed that she'll jump a little when when she's cold (i.e. ease on the gas for the first few miles until she drives more smoothly). Looking around the web, this seems to be fairly common and most forums say that it shouldn't be a cause for any alarm.
More recently though, she's started to lag when I accelerate right around the RPMs where she should be shifting. For example, increase to about 3000 RPM, then it feels like a second of free fall, then she'll catch up and be just fine.
I took her into a shop to get it looked at about 3 weeks ago - initial thought had been maybe an issue with the transmission fluid (did a flush back in 2014 / 110k miles). The mechanic refused to do the flush until I had the catalytic converter and downstream O2 sensor replaced. The previous owner had installed a modification to the sensor and the wires had got too close to the converter and melted.
We noticed the check engine light about a year ago and had it looked at, but the mechanic then said it wasn't a huge issue and was really only going to affect our gas mileage so we held off. Since this mechanic was fairly certain that this was causing our issue, we went ahead and had the repairs made. No luck. Haven't had a chance to take her back to the shop, but I figured I'd ask to see if we were at least on the right track.
Second issue. My wife and I share this car, and her commute is significantly further than mine. She says that four times over the past two months the car has shut itself off when it comes to a stop. Not a common occurrence given the amount of driving we do, but enough to be concerning.
I've had regular oil changes and kept up with the routine maintenance over the past four years (new spark plugs, air filters, etc.). Just got a fuel system flush with the catalytic converter repair three weeks ago. Haven't changed the battery since I bought her, but every time we get the oil changed they check it and say it's good.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2011 Jetta 5 spd, was driving today and suddenly I could not shift in 4th, 5th or reverse. This is the first time this as happen, I have never had any issues with the far. I don't know much about transmissions. The clutch seems to be working fine as I can shift with ease from 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
View 3 Replies
My 14 year old Jetta, 119,000 mile will manually o into reverse ,but will not allow me to reverse the car? Could this be a clutch problem, or transmission. Is it worth repairing it, or purchasing, leasing car? Car also had new engine 3 years ago.
View 1 Replies
Long time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
View 5 Replies
I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
View 1 Replies
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
View 13 Replies
In my f100 the c6 had low miles on a rebuild and sat for probably 10 years, I have put around 14k miles on it since I got it. I have had a issue with it having a random delayed/flared 3rd shift point. If I am getting on it and miss letting off the throttle to let it shift. I have kept a eye on the fluid since it leaks all over the place, its about 1/2 quart for 2k miles and use type f. A week ago it stopped auto shifting into 3rd and have been manually shifting it to 3rd, when doing that it will then auto 3-2 and 2-3.
I got a superior R servo since I was unsure what I had and did not spend a lot on it, what is this r servo i pulled. The fluid that came out the servo housing had a lot of metallic shavings and smelt burnt, I also think the spring was installed backwards. I got 3rd back and in due time I will see if I still have delayed/flared 3rd shift, it has always had a hard 1-2 and 2-1 shift. This c6 has a transgo shift kit and I have a B&M kit in a valve body sitting from a wide band build I never completed. left superior and right unknown...
View 7 Replies
2014 F250 automatic- 35k miles... just started having an issue. Noticed when the transmission is cold, the shift from 2nd to 3rd is almost delayed. It's enough of a pause you can feel it then it shifts. Weird thing is it only does for the first 3 stop signs leaving my house. Once the trans starts getting some temperature to it, it shifts perfect. I checked the fluid while hot and it showed a little low. I drove it after adding fluid but will have to wait till it's cold to see if it's any better... Think it was the fluid? But why just 2nd to 3rd gear only?
View 3 Replies
I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
View 2 Replies
Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2008 2.7 all wheel drive santa fe automaic. It has 110 Kilometers on it. It is stop and go traffic everywhere, terrible roads, and lots of hills. I have actually only owned it for about 14k kilometers.
It has been fine since I bought it a year ago up until about 2 months ago. I was coming to a stop and as I got right to the end of my stop, the car jerked and made a clunk sound. No smell. I could tell it was when the tranny was coming down from 2nd to 1st. I tried to replicate it but got nothing. Ignored it but then it happened again. It seemed more prevalent when I was moving from 1st to second to stop over and over.
As I began to pay attention more and more, it happens much more when going up a hill or down a hill and almost always happens when I am about to make a u-turn and the wheel is turned all the way to the left. When it happens, it isn't always a big jerk. It never happens at speed, the other shifts are fine, and if I shift from reverse to drive too fast and accelerate, I get a clunk as well.
View 1 Replies
1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
View 2 Replies
Recently I have another problem:
When I drive uphill on the way the car's transmission doesn't shift up to the upper gear,the gear stays on 1,when I press the gas pedal more the EPC light comes on the dashboard,I must release 2-3 times the gas pedal then the gear goes up to 2-nd or 3-rd gear.This happens only when I drive uphill,when drive on flat street this problem almost doesn't come.
Another,when I drive downhill,the gear doesn't release sometimes too,the car tries to stop from 3-rd gear directly to 0,and the RPM goes straight to 100-200,even the car turns off... I heard something for the VW Phaeton transmission problems,and that it can be SOFTWARE flashed and the problems go away???
View 2 Replies
My 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2012 VW GTI w/ a manual trans. It's a year old and has 15k miles. I bought it new from a VW dealer. Under hard acceleration, the RPMs jump about 500 RPMs for only a second or two and then drop down to where they were previously. During that time, it feels like the transmission slips out of gear and that I have no power. I've noticed this is gears 2-6.
Also, whenever I stop the car and put it into first gear, there's a loud thump that I can both hear and feel coming through the steering wheel and shift knob. It's been doing this since I bought the car. I brought it to VW and they said it's probably just because the gears are still spinning when I put it into first. But it still happens if I wait several seconds to put it into first.
Is this a sign of a bad transmission or one on its way out?
View 16 Replies
I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
View 10 Replies
It is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
View 1 Replies
One of my roommates is also my ride to the bus stop in the mornings, and we've been arriving later and later for the past few weeks because of a persistent issue with his car, a 2003 VW GTI basic trim with automatic transmission.
After starting it in the morning, we have to wait a few minutes for it to warm up before it will agree to shift out of first gear while in D. Even then, often after he comes to a stop and turns left, it will once again refuse to shift out of first gear, so we'll be forced to pull over and wait a few more minutes once again.
I read a few forums that mentioned stuff about solenoids, but the whole thing is over my head. He does park on a steep-ish grade, as we live on a hill, if that provides any further clue. We're in Southern California, so the temperature isn't too extreme here, and there seems to be no other reason to have to warm up the car.
So that's about it! How we might go about getting it resolved? Is it something we can roll our sleeves up in the driveway and do ourselves?
View 4 Replies
