Jetta - Volkswagen :: Turbo Waste Gate Not Closing Properly
May 22, 2014
I have a 2006 Volkswagon Jetta GLI and when the check engine light went on I took it to my local car guy. He said the Turbo Waste Gate isn't closing properly and I should take it to the dealer to see if it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. He told me could replace it if that's what's needed but he can't repair it but I can still drive it probably just for a few months before it needs to be fixed.
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I understand how the waste gate is supposed to work at high rpms / boost.
I believe that as long as I keep the max boost down, that I can run with the waste gate plugged in order to goose the power a little in the 2000-28000 RPM range. Since the truck is stock and there's no intention of running higher RPMs, it seems like plugging the waste gate is a good idea. I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something.
It appears that the wast gate also opens when at idle and possibly when you let off the throttle. Are these important functions of the waste gate as well?
Here's a chart showing waste gate operation...
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I have a 2001 7.3 that recently had a throttle position sensor issue I replaced the sensor 4 days ago and my truck ran like new. Until last night I shut my truck off and went to start it up a few seconds later and it would crank continually but wouldn't turn over so I went for the obvious and replaced the cam sensor but that didn't change anything. My scanner is throwing a waste gate fail code.
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4 5.4 ex cab. The last few months, the back of my truck has been bouncing bad. Speed doesn't matter, every bump will make the back end bounce like crazy, heck even dropping or closing the tail gate will make it bounce. I've replaced the shocks at all 4 corners, rear shocks have been replaced with 3 different sets trying to rule out bad shocks out of the box, new leaf springs and shackles and hangers look good. I've checked the cab mounts, checked for cracks in the frame or anything loose. It has me stumped.
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Earlier today I went out to give a family friend a ride and as the temperature had climbed, elected to close the sunroof and windows and use the A/C. While out, I noticed an abnormal amount of wind noise coming from the sunroof and double-checked to make sure it was actually closed. It didn't budge when I pushed it towards the 'closed' position so I figured it was just my imagination.
Well cut to getting home about 20 minutes later and sure enough, the sunroof is ever so slightly down at the back, even when stopped in the 'closed' position. In order to get a proper seal, I have to tap the tilt switch up ever so briefly.
I'm hoping that the sunroof control unit has simply lost its bearings and needs to be reset and though I've got an appointment set up with my dealer for next Tuesday (the soonest they have available), I tried my own solution for the night. I put the roof in as close to the properly closed position as possible and disconnected the negative battery terminal. I plan on leaving it this way for at least 8 or 9 hours and shall report back.
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I can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
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760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
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I have an '04 6.0 and it doesn something strange. When for example I am going up a decent grade hill and passing, if I have to let off the throttle and then re apply, the turbo won't build boost, it sits at a couple pounds for a few seconds. Then after a few seconds it will build boost quickly again and work generally as normal. If it doesn't respond and I really need to get it to build boost NOW, if I push the accelerator to the floor, the delay shortens and it will often kick down a gear and then build boost. So if I gently accelerate, very slow to recover, if I hammer it, much quicker but regardless, when it's happening it's almost always the same situation, fully warmed up truck, warm/cold/freezing day and it happens when I back off and re apply. Thinking maybe a worn unison ring but not sure..
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Trouble shooting my sunroof. When I first go the car the sunroof would open but not close, even when I pushed in the button to reset.
I have replace/ and calibrated replace the switch now I get the fallowing.
When I put it to open all the way, it goes in to vent mode ( the back opens up), ( when i put it close it closes fine).
When i put in vent the sunroof slide back 1/4 of the way. when I try to close it closes and opens back to 1/4 open. I have to close it and press the button in to close it.
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem?I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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Well my alarm is not working properly, when lock my doors all my doors lock but yet my headlights don't flash and i dont get any alarm chirp..
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I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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Crank position sensor was replaced a few months ago. After that noticed that it would not accelerate properly from a standing start. No jerking or anything, but way back it used to be able to spin the front tires a bit, but now not getting that needed acceleration. After hitting 15 or 20 mph, then it's back to normal and road and highway speeds are nice with power.
The reason the crank position sensor was replace was on account of intermittent no starts. That's gone away, but now this acceleration problem. Could it be a leaking air from the outside into the intercooler? Would a VAGCOMM show what's going on? Golf TDI 2005...
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having some issues with my idle, when im coasting and i push in the clutch it doesnt drop down to idle like it used to it sticks at about 2000 when its dropping, also at a stop light the idle will rise up and hunt from 1700 to 2300 or so. also if im in a parking lot in second gear or so the rpms will rise and accdelerate the vehicle.
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Well I have been working on my build for about 2 1/2 years. Built the motor for the turbo set up that I had on the car and a few other goodies.
Now the motor turns over with no issue and I have spark. So I know my problem lies in the fuel delivery. My pump tested fine and I have fuel at the rail. So my next guess is the injectors. After trying to start the car I pulled 2 spark plugs out and they where dry. So this proved to me there's an issue here.
Before I go and rip my manifold off and start pulling injectors is there anything I could check first? I'm thinking from sitting that have gotten dirty and clogged.
Looking for wire diagram for the injectors on the vr6?
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I have a GTI with a turbo that leaks oil.I don't exactly know what to do. The guy i bought it from said it had "Bad Seals" I've seen many rebuild kits online for my turbo(KO3) Looking through the kits i really only sea one seal. One single O-ring. So that doesn't seem right but this is my first turboed vehicle so i can honestly say I don't know much. Should I buy the Rebuild kit or should I just buy a new Turbo? Any video to reference too because i don't even know how to remove my turbo.
Also, on a side note. I was being a show off one day and tried speeding off like a dick.I went from first and grinded HARD into second and since then I haven't had first gear. Now i suspect its my synchros. But like i've said before. I don't know much.
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So, I have a 2005 gti 1.8t, has 110k on it, just did a 3" straight pipe, and while a buddy and I were installing my new pipe, and straight pipe, he said my turbo seals were going bad. I could get the k04 cause it handles better, or get a rebuild kit. Well, today when I give it throttle, it almost makes a knocking sound from the turbo? Not from the front of the car, but at the end of straight pipe, you can hear it in that constant spool. What could this be? Time for the k04. Car has unitronic stage 2, so it gets ran hard sometimes.
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I have this odd turbo squeal in 1st and 2nd gear WOT at low rpm... turbo is new and was replaced in june of this year... had no issues with it up till probably a few weeks ago when the squealing started... it doesn't happen in any other gear at WOT, just 1st and 2nd... where do I start looking?
Here's a video of the squeal : [URL] .....
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My wife just got his car and she loves it!. its a 1.8t 5 speed. Runs and drives awesome. She had 2 new beetles before this one with the same motor but they both had 2 1/2 exhaust from the turbo back. The jetta will be done soon but it has this slight growl when its idling sometimes. Doesn't seem like its every time or may be it seems more when its warmed up. We had just changed the timing belt and tensioner and water pump but we did it 2 days after we got it so I am not sure if it did it before or not.
Kinda sounds like a bad needle bearing where when you spin it and can feel little bumps in it...don't know if that makes sense or not. You can kind of feel it when your sitting in it but its hard to say because we just got it. I don't remember the beetles doing it though but may be the exhaust kinda made it less noticeable. It did have a code about exhaust something bank 1?? I am thinking the cat might be bad or the o2 sensors. i have more sensors im gonna try but when i do the exhaust I know the light will be on anyway.
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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