I have this noise on my cars head, its like a ticking noise that is coming from the top, more towards the back of the head.
It sounds like a bad lifter sound and gets louder with acceleration.
I have did a complete head overhaul-changed valves-lifters-seals-guides- also did oil pressure test and everything seems fine.
but he noise is still there? vw jetta 3 1.8i
I own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
My wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
I have a 2001 1.6 DOHC Accent the engine has been making a lot noise coming form just the back of the head it kinda sounds like a diesel. I pulled the valve cover off and turned the engine over by hand. I noticed that cam chain has a good amount of slack in it. Is there a tensioner to take slack out of the chain? If so can I adjust it? If not how do I replace the chain?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 Gli 1.8T with 69,000 miles. This ticking sound that I hear from the inside of my car is coming from the right side of the engine bay. It starts during idle. It starts ticking and gets a little faster and then stops for a few seconds then begins again. It fully stops while driving. I changed tensioner, belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and oil change with mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40.
View 6 RepliesI've been hearing this ticking noise coming from the back of my prius when driving. i can only hear it when my windows is down and i'm passing by an object that reflects the sound so i can hear it., like if i was driving by a car, building, median with barriers etc. It sound like pop rocks candy literally but much slower.
View 7 RepliesI've been dealing with a frustrating issue for a while now. Whenever I use my key fob the alarm sets but my front and back driver side doors won't lock. After playing around I've noticed that the driver's side door locks when actually inserting the key and turning. Also, all of the doors lock when I am sitting in the driver's seat and push the lock button on the door panel but the back driver's side door won't unlock unless I crank the vehicle and hit the unlock button. I don't think the key fob has a low battery because I've used both key fobs and it locks one side but not the other. It's all very weird to me. The situation is frustrating for two reasons:
1) Doors are not actually locking so thieves have access to whatever they can grab and run away;
2) I occasionally forget to hit the unlock button and cause my alarm to go off and annoy neighbors, coworkers, etc.
What could be causing this? I'd like a quick fix but I'm afraid I'm going to have to open up the door panels and play around all weekend.
2003 VW Jetta VR6: Headlights are not coming on...reliably, at least. Both halogen bulbs have been changed twice in the last 5 months. This is what I know of the headlight issue I'm having:
If the bright light indicator on my heads-up display is on when I start the car, I have no headlights. Switching between high and low beam in the car does not do anything when this bright indicator is stuck on...I have only found one fix...see number 2.
I get out of the car and tap on the front right headlight...the lights come on, but the front right is much brighter than the left. The lights are on the low-beam setting at this point. Only tapping the front light gets the lights to come on...high beams do work once I get the lights to turn on.
Once the lights are on, they do not reliably stay on...they might turn off while driving down the road. Pulling over and tapping on the front right light will get them to turn back on. (think this might be a loose wire issue? if so... i can't figure out where, or what needs to be done to fix it...)
Very odd thing... prior to starting the car, the bright light indicator is on...I pull up on emergency brake and it toggles the bright light indicator. I get out of the car and tap the light, lights are on, go back in the car and pull up on the emergency brake...the lights go out. Put the emergency brake down, the lights come back on.
I'm completely perplexed by this headlight issue.
My jeep seems to be making a ticking noise in the back windshield. I notice it when I've been driving it for a while or on hot days. Once it starts I'll continue to hear it even though the car is turned off. Is it the glass? The seal around the windshield? How is something like this fixed.
View 2 RepliesSo I have a Volkswagen GTI (2003). A while ago i had to replace the radio/stereo (but not the speakers).
Now one or both of the speakers (I'm not sure which it is. I can't tell from the drivers seat) in the back right side of the car make a rattling static noise. its fairly loud and it makes the sound whether i have the music turned up or not. and it doesn't constantly make the sound -- its irregular but frequent. Changing the volume doesn't seem to effect it, like i said it rattles whether i have the volume up or on zero. however the sound stops completely when i turn the stereo off and when the car is not moving.
When the sound started i had been listening to the music pretty loud (though certainly not as loud as i'd ever had it). i was also driving...um...over the speed limit...on a bumpy country road.
Recently my GTI has been ticking, but it is only between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. After 2k it runs fine and doesn't make the sound. Local tuner suggested an oil pressure problem (not using the proper oil) but I am using the proper oil. It has been like this for over a month now and nothing has come of it. It is coming from the belt side of the motor and sounds like plastic ticking. Could it be a belt?
View 7 RepliesI have the most annoying high-pitched squeak/whine coming from my front left tire. For those who cant see the video, its making a high pitched, metal on metal noise... at all speeds... especially when making slight turns... my foot was not on the brake when the video was taken (coasting around the parking lot at around 10 mph)...
View 4 Replies2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
View 24 RepliesI have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
2003 jetta has a body clunking (serious) ONLY in the summer, when it has been in the sun...
View 5 RepliesI've a 02 Jetta GLS - 2.0 engine..
About a week back, I have started to hear a ticking noise from the hood. It is exactly same as someone else posted video on youtube below:
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What could be potential problem areas?
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What in the world is this clicking/ticking noise? It is the loudest thing in the engine bay, and as you can hear, it does NOT sound normal. It appears to be emanating around/under the fuel rail.
I have a VW Jetta Sportwagen with 17" wheels and Conti 225/45R17H low profile tires. Ever since I first bought the car, i have been annoyed by the higher-than-expected road noise. Perhaps this is caused by the tires, perhaps by the body characteristics of a wagon, perhaps it's just the noise anyone would get from a Jetta chassis. The tires are due for replacement soon, and I'm wondering if I would experience a meaningful reduction in road noise if I switched to 16" wheels and less sporty tires? It wouldn't be cheap to replace wheels and tires, but it could be worth it if the noise level drops significantly. If the wheel change is not worthwhile, which 17" tires would be a quieter choice?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 VW Sportwagen TDI. I have been driving with my windows down and recently started hearing a noise (don't hear it when windows are up). The sound only seems to appear when I first start driving the car (after a few miles it seems to stop or at least is much less frequent), as I slowly (normal) accelerate and especially as I turn into a corner... I hear a loud "ticking" sound. It "ticks" 6-12 times (over about 5 sec) and then stops altogether. The sound has a very metallic character.
I looked at a youtube video demonstrating diagnosing and repairing of the CV joint(s) and am not convinced this is my problem. The tone and frequency of the "tick" sound shown in the video is way different than what I am hearing with my car.
Experiencing a squeaking noise coming form a VW GTI. I have a 2006 GTI and when the car is cold and I first drive it I hear a squeaking noise coming from under the hood when it's idle. Typically once I accelerate it goes away and it does this till the car warms up. I checked all visible belts and air lines for wear and leaks but nothing obvious. And given my mechanic is 30 minutes away by the time I get there it stops making the noise.
View 2 RepliesMKIV Jetta wagon 2004. Bought used last year. Four previous owners with 125K on it.
Problem: After oil change where I previously had 5W-30 with valvoline dino, I changed with a different brand 5W-30 (Peak brand). Ticking noise started immediately from engine area usually only after it got up to temperature. Also using different oil filter. Initially not sure if it was injector or lifter tick. It ended up being lifter tick, and the give away was when going down a small hill and the engine downshifting, the increase RPM caused the tick to increase at the same rate. So here is the path I went down.
1. Swapped out oil filter - no change. I thought this might work because I was using a fram tough guard.
2. Added some rislone with ZDDP additive. Quieted down the valvetrain quite a bit, but did not solve the problem
3. Added rislone engine treatment. Got better, but still not totally solved.
4. Tried to "drive it out" and get some mileage on the rislone . Didn't work. Definitely better though
Finally, after all that I figured let's give my baby some of the thick sauce. So I pulled out a quart from the diptube with my suction device and put in a quart of 10W-40. Almost immediately PROBLEM GONE. So either that crappy peak oil doesn't have the viscosity that it advertises, or the valve train is just getting old and needs a little bit thicker oil in the summer. Probably both. I will also keep using a small dose of the ZDDP additive to extend the life of the valvetrain, as it sounds really good with that stuff in the system.