Jetta - Volkswagen :: Really Rough Running - Jerk Or Move Incredibly Slow When Push In Gas
Dec 14, 2011
I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
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Our 2001 mazda 626 has begun to run rough(shaking the car) when idling at a stop sign or stop light and once that begins when we push on the gas to move from 1st to second there is a huge jerk. If the air conditioning is on it is worse. It is an automatic.
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I'm considering a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T with 135,000 miles that the owner is selling for $1,000.00 because it is "starts and runs but it's difficult get it accelerated and it's just running rough ". I haven't yet looked at the car or pulled the codes, but before I do, is there a common point of failure on these cars that leads to the symptoms described?
If it is something such as a crankshaft position sensor, then I could potentially have a good car for a lot less than the book value. If it's something such as the timing having jumped a tooth, then that's probably not something that I want to mess with.
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Got a 06 Limited with power third row option. The rear Pas. side seat is stuck down and when I push the button you can hear the motor running but the seat does not move. I have tried shaking the seat while pushing the button with no luck.
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I have an automatic Jetta and just hit 130,000 miles. Recently, my car would randomly after I turn it on and put it in drive, the car would jerk forward and make like a popping noise. Then the car drives fine as usual. As if the gears are slipping? Is this a sign that my transmission is going out? What else can cause this? What should I do?
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I know the issue of slow filling of the gas tank has been discussed extensively, but I haven't seen it discussed in the context of a cold car only.
Briefly, I have a 2010 VW Golf and if it has not been running for ~10-15 minutes, the gas pump clicks off as if it is full within 0.2-0.3 gallons. It doesn't even go into the tank and just spills out everywhere. Even in hot weather, if the car hasn't been running for a while (eg. overnight or all day at work), it needs 10-15 minutes of the engine running and then it will fill up all the way without problems. It's not an issue of the gas pump because I will just leave the car running at the gas station and 10 minutes later, I can fill up without a problem.
It's still under warranty but the dealer won't do anything because they can't reproduce it (too many red lights between the dealer and the gas station so the car is warmed up by they time they fill up gas). I haven't seen any issues online of slow fill being dependent on the car temperature.
Any specific things to ask them to check out that they could detect is damaged without being able to reproduce the problem?
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We were borrowing my brother-in-law's 2006 Jetta and the day after a snow storm, the windshield wipers stopped working. They came up half way and then stopped and don't move further. You can hear a whirring noise,like something is trying to go, but no movement. We've been quoted $500-600 to replace the windshield wipers and motor, but we don't think they need to be replaced, just repaired.
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Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
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I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
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I have a 1998 Volkswagen GL. The car runs for 15-18 minutes at a time very smoothly and then it is like someone takes the key out of the ignition. It just dies for about 10-20 minutes then it will start back up again. I have used the diagnostic on my car and gotten rid of all codes, but one. The one code that I cannot get rid of is 1426. I also cannot find out what that code means other then just a general error message. What could be causing the car to be shutting down like that?
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I have a 2000 VW Beetle with about 95,000 miles on it. This morning we drove it with the spare key that we haven't used in months. It ran a little rough, and when I turned a corner it seemed to make a creaking-like noise (mostly during any weight shift). This afternoon after driving it during the day a few times and putting gas in it, I drove it home from work on the highway, about 1 mile from home at a stop light the car sputtered and the check engine light went on. It continued running and I drove to the mechanic and had the code read, it came out as 1612. They said it was possibly something with the ECM... what this means? Is it just a coincidence that my spare key was being used? Is it a misfire? Something with the electrical system...
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2009 VW Jetta TDI... Both low beam/running headlights are not working. I tried to check the fuses but, according to my owners manual both left and right fuse slots are empty. I don't think both fuses fell out. Where the headlight fuses are supposed to be?
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When I'm driving and get above 50-60 I will get the Check Engine Light. Check the codes It shows 6 ---300, 303, 306, 300, 303, 306. When I slow the car down it is running rough, almost like it has a miss.
I reset the computer while this is going on and the engine smooths out and it runs correctly until I keep my pedal down and then it kicks the exact same errors.
Here's strange part number one: Once I get down to about a gallon or two of gas in the car everything seems to run fine. I have plenty of power, no codes and the car runs fantastic!
Strange part number 2: Very occasionally When I get in the car in the morning to go to work, the car is a bit difficult to start. When it finally kicks over, it is immediately running rough. resetting the computer with the engine running does not seem to stop the rough running. If I turn off the engine and let the car set for a bit it will start and run fine, with the exception of the first problem mentioned in this thread. There is no code while it is running rough, but when the Light kicks on as per the first issue mentioned, I have an additional code -- 335. This car has been excellent up until the last few months when this issue developed.
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I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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I ran into a new one with my 2000 1.8T Auto. When pulling out of my garage when I move the shifter from P to R, I felt a very strong jerk and the whole car shudders. Same from R to D. I drove straight to AAMCO which was the nearest repair shop. Although the drive was smooth (no additional noises etc) the acceleration was noticeably slow.
Recent work on the car:
-Timing belt replacement 3 months back.
-Battery replacement last night.
Engine light is on and came on 2 days back.
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I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
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1996 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 Litre Base, 43000 miles... While driving, this car, suddenly accelerator pedal becomes very hard to push and car will not move at all even if you press hard pedal to the floor( Requires a lots of force). If I put brakes on, shift the transmission to reverse and to then to drive, it will start moving again. No check engine light comes on and there are no codes stored in computer. This never happens on cruise control. Car starts flawlessly even on cold morning. Battery is new and charging system works fine. Spark plugs were changed at 30,000 miles so also direct ignition coil on cylinder No.3 .....
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I have a 2001 infiniti i30 automatic with about 118000 miles. The car runs and drives fine but every now and then while i am driving it and i push on gas the RPM will go up but the car will not move forward. I noticed that this usually happens when I drive the car a lot. If i turn it off and on it drives normal again. I have had 3 mechanics try to troubleshoot it one recommended to change the MAF which I did and the car ran fine for about 6 months and is starting to do it again. Service engine soon light is on again. What exactly is the issue that's causing it.
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It started by a minor sputtering while my gf was driving it. It became seriously worse to where while driving at a steady speed it would jerk badly but if I drove and shifted at a high rate of speed if was fine until I released the gas pedal and symptoms returned. I let it set for a week then drove it and it was fine until I shut the engine down and restarted and the symptoms returned. This scenario has happened twice. Autozone tester reported a bad cam sensor. I replaced it and it did not work. I foolishly asked an online mechanic who said it was a crank sensor. I changed that too plus put a new fuel filter on it. Before all this began my truck had been performing perfectly it only has 84k miles but my gf said that she had heard a sound like a pulley was squeaking but I never heard a sound.
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I have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
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