I have a 2003 Jetta. After it runs for awhile, if I have to shut it off and start it back up - I have to pump the gas to get it started and it idles high and gets flooded. I can smell gas after it gets started. A mechanic already replaced the ignition coil, which wasn't the problem at all.
View 3 RepliesSo lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
View 2 RepliesHave a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
MK4 ... I have a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T with that weirdo tranny (09A for those in the know) with the psuedo manual tiptronic VWtransmission. I don't think the tiptronic has anything to do with this, but here's my problem.3rd gear has gone missing. The car will over-rev high in 2nd and then BAM into 4th (and not, using the Tiptronic does not ameliorate, nor does using the 2nd to 3rd to 4th on the automatic shifter).
Interestingly, when doing tiptronic the car will reflect on the dash that it thinks it is in/going thru 3rd, but obviously is not. HOWEVER, When it rains, 3rd gear re-appears.I would not say things shift like a dream, but certainly not like the aforementioned nightmare. Up shift and downshift occur on time with an occasional hard shift.
My thoughts are that this is due to solenoid(s) conking out. VW says it is lifetime ATF and makes changing it next to impossible for an ape like me. Is it definitely something (solenoid or something else?)?
I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
View 5 Replies2003 Jetta station wagon, disc brakes all around.
Recently changed all 4 pads + the rear rotors. about 2 weeks after this the car started making a horrible noise from the rear driver side wheel- like the tires were dragging metal.
We took off the wheel last night, replaced the caliper, and discovered one caliper bolt was missing. We think this caused the caliper to misplace itself and start riding the rotor. The caliper was also in pretty bad shape so we went ahead and replaced it because we had already bought the part.
Anyway, we put everything together, drove it last night a short distance, everything was fine.
Today after driving apx. 25 miles since the replacement, the car has started whistling. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from, but it only happens at higher speeds, and I don't know if turning affects it but it happens going straight. It is a cyclical type of sound and goes away when braking.
Note: when replacing the caliper, my dad did not use the little metal brackets because we couldn't figure out how to place them and didn't think we needed them. Would that cause this noise? Is that dangerous to do?
UPDATE: I've mislead you all! Upon further inspection the whistling noise is coming from the serpentine belt area. I had assumed that it was coming from the wheel because we had JUST messed with it, but I was wrong. Now I'm wondering what's going on with the belt!
My car occasionally makes a high pitched whine while driving it's very loud and very frustrating. I've come to the following conclusions: It only happens when the car is warm, it only happens at speeds above 40mph, it doesn't correspond to either accelerating or decelerating, it happens either way and in between. I've had people in the car while it's happened and the noise seems to come from the driver's side rear wheel. Sometimes it gets so loud and then gets even louder when I begin to apply the brakes, it's as if it starts screaming.
I've had mechanics take apart the complete brake system on every wheel and put them back together. They've put anti-squeal on the brakes to no avail. While driving the noise can come and go, with no apparent reason why. It happens in rain and on warm sunny days. Also, the noise seems to oscillate as if it is something that's spinning, I'd guess it's at approximately 160 beats per minute. This has been occurring for about a year, it was not this way when I got the car. No mechanics have ever found anything, but it's so loud! And so annoying and embarrassing. This can't be normal, what is it!?
Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
View 4 Replies2 002 Jetta Bad misfire P0301 a bit long. 02 jetta gls with 2.0 AVH engine auto trans. over summer my brother overheated it & blew head gasket & valves. All parts listed are new between aug and now. I repaired engine as follows new head & bolts head gasket timing belt water pump coolant flange on drivers side new fuel rail and injectors car also has new coil pack, new VW plug wires and 1 week ago new iridium plugs my brother didn?t want car, so i bought it from him. Ran great after I rebuilt top end.
Car did 140 on the turnpike & ran great. once or twice while giving moderate to high throttle CEL would flash and I pulled P0300 as a pending code. Problem stopped after 2 days. last week after 4 hrs of idling(don't ask) started misfiring and CEL flashes constantly P0301 The misfire seems worse at idle and low speed. Car will get to highway speed but has bad pickup. This is what I?ve done/checked New iridium plugs Plug wires 4.5 ohms Coil pack is good and producing enough spark at each wire MAF sensor cleaned Cyl 1 compression good all injectors are clicking and when disconnected cause appropriate CEL error code Brought car to VW dealer for diagnosis VAG COM shows multiple misfire on cyl 1 Mechanic confirmed all the steps I took and components tested ok. He tried new coil pack, new plug and wire for cyl 1 and no change.
I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
View 3 RepliesOk, I own a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GLI that I bought from my neighbor about 4 months ago, and recently, it started having problems. It's idling very high, around 1,500-2,000 rpms, it's leaking coolant, not from the bottom of the reservoir but from the top, and it's slightly overheating. Oh yeah, the speedometer stopped working. I've recently taken it to the shop twice, the first time to get the reservoir replaced, and the second time to get radiator replaced.
I have had problems with it stalling in the middle of the highway during traffic because it over heated. I commute daily to and from college and I want to make this car last as long as possible as I do not have the means to buy a new car. I have noticed that there seems to be a build up of air in the reservoir. I witnessed it leak, and there was a hissing sound coming from it. Also with the speedometer, the light doesnt turn on for it and that there is a clicking noise coming from it. Any tips?
I have the most annoying high-pitched squeak/whine coming from my front left tire. For those who cant see the video, its making a high pitched, metal on metal noise... at all speeds... especially when making slight turns... my foot was not on the brake when the video was taken (coasting around the parking lot at around 10 mph)...
View 4 RepliesThere is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
View 3 RepliesThe carb on my 460 in my truck is acting funny. It almost sounds like a dragster It Idles really rough. I tried setting the Idle mixture screws on the side of the metering block. I bottomed them out and them turned them out 1 1/4 turns. I started turning them in till I got the highest reading on my vacuum gauge, about 13 hg. The screws are only about 1/4 turn from being bottomed out. It was running smoother, then it stalled when I restarted it, it started running really rough again.
The exhaust smells of gas. I turned the screws all the way in just to see what would happen, I thought it should stall but it didn't. I had my timing light hooked up and checked it now and then during all of this and it didn't change at all. The screws had almost no resistance to turning, shouldn't they have some resistance?
I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
View 4 RepliesI have a question about smelling burning oil. I have a 2005 passat 1.8t (4 motion) with 80,000 miles. Once in a while I smell what smells to be burning oil. It usually happens when the car is warm and sits and idles for a min. like when you would be at a stop sign and doesn't last long. There doesn't seem to be any blue smoke coming from the exhaust either....
View 5 RepliesI have a hesitation/stalling issue with my explorer. Started about 2 months ago and can't figure it out. It began with truck feeling like gas wasn't getting to it and it was kicking as if it were getting it, but not at the right times. Asked around was told the throttle body positioner may be going bad as well as fuel filter might be getting clogged. Replaced both and it seemed like it worked as it felt like it was driving ok, but it was all in town driving. Took to interstate and began kicking again. Then, it started to misfire?? or lose power in town and would stall at lights and or turns. Talked to some other people and said it might be my Intake air control valve and or gaskets are leaking from the upper/lower intake.
I got new IAC and got new gaskets and cleaned lower intake and changed oil as well. It ran great for about a day or 2. Got it on HWY and around town and it was great. Now runs absolutely horrible. Feels like it stutters when it idles and when I push gas pedal I get the smell of gas and it wants to die. When pulling off upper lower intake unnoticed that the long screw to upper intake weren't all the way down in the back. I made sure to bolt them down tightly. I was told today to try and reset the computer by detaching the negative battery cable and using a wire to attach that detached cable to the power cable. Then to reattach, turn key to get accessories going for 10 sec, start and idle for te min, turn on lights for about 1 min, followed by radio and then ac. Then test drive for 10min or so. This may have made it worse??
I'm not a mechanic by any means but believe I hooked up everything correctly as it ran great for a day or 2. Also, a bit back I had P0107 bank one lean code pulled up. No engine light has ever come on. Have not had it rescanned since I replaced IAC and gaskets. Just don't know where to turn next. I also cleaned MAF, put in new air filter. 1998 explorer 4.0 SOHC....
So I've been having this issue for a while and I think I know what it is, just wanting to confirm it is the problem before I go fixing it. My car idles at high RPM's, at around 1-2k when I am sitting at a stop sign or stop light. I replaced the MAF sensor but that wasn't the issue. I assume that it is the throttle body or the sensor.
Also, I came out the other day to park my car in the garage and I saw a huge puddle of water where the passenger puts his/her feet. It was all in the carpet and I just dried it up. It was raining out but I don't think I have a leak or anything. I was told it might be my heater core that went out and that the AC is the problem.
My 2003 Passat has a noxious smell when I pull up to a parking space or sometimes when I stop at a light. It smells like burning oil or exhaust, but not all the time. The repair shop has replaced the oil pan, which was dented (by my 18-year-old son), replaced axle seal, and have replaced a broken and leaking PCV hose, but that has not solved the problem, and the don't know what else to do.
View 7 RepliesSo, among other things my 06 Limited is acting a little weird when I start it up. If it's cold, as in hasn't run in a few hours, not so much temp, it idles really high for a while. I wait for it to come down under 1000 before rolling out. It makes a funny noise too. Sort of a tick-tick-tick with a little whine behind it. What it could be? How much it'd be to get it fixed? I'm past my 100,000, 107,000 to be exact. Of course the issues pop up after the warranty is up!
View 3 RepliesCEL came on. No performance issues or noises coming from the car this time around. I did notice that after parking and killing engine, there is a faint exhaust-type smell though. I took the car to my local Advance Auto Parts and had them hook the car up to their computer for a diagnostic. Two codes came up.
1: P0431, warm-up catalyst efficiency bank 2 below threshold pending
2: P0431, warm-up catalyst efficiency bank 2 below threshold confirmed
The AAP employee didn't have anything to add to the code readouts. I'm concerned that this is a catalytic converter issue, and if that's the case, a repair would likely cost more than I'm willing to put into the car at this point. It has just over 125K miles on it.