Jetta - Volkswagen :: High Pitched Whistle After Changing The Caliper?
Nov 14, 2016
2003 Jetta station wagon, disc brakes all around.
Recently changed all 4 pads + the rear rotors. about 2 weeks after this the car started making a horrible noise from the rear driver side wheel- like the tires were dragging metal.
We took off the wheel last night, replaced the caliper, and discovered one caliper bolt was missing. We think this caused the caliper to misplace itself and start riding the rotor. The caliper was also in pretty bad shape so we went ahead and replaced it because we had already bought the part.
Anyway, we put everything together, drove it last night a short distance, everything was fine.
Today after driving apx. 25 miles since the replacement, the car has started whistling. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from, but it only happens at higher speeds, and I don't know if turning affects it but it happens going straight. It is a cyclical type of sound and goes away when braking.
Note: when replacing the caliper, my dad did not use the little metal brackets because we couldn't figure out how to place them and didn't think we needed them. Would that cause this noise? Is that dangerous to do?
UPDATE: I've mislead you all! Upon further inspection the whistling noise is coming from the serpentine belt area. I had assumed that it was coming from the wheel because we had JUST messed with it, but I was wrong. Now I'm wondering what's going on with the belt!
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My car occasionally makes a high pitched whine while driving it's very loud and very frustrating. I've come to the following conclusions: It only happens when the car is warm, it only happens at speeds above 40mph, it doesn't correspond to either accelerating or decelerating, it happens either way and in between. I've had people in the car while it's happened and the noise seems to come from the driver's side rear wheel. Sometimes it gets so loud and then gets even louder when I begin to apply the brakes, it's as if it starts screaming.
I've had mechanics take apart the complete brake system on every wheel and put them back together. They've put anti-squeal on the brakes to no avail. While driving the noise can come and go, with no apparent reason why. It happens in rain and on warm sunny days. Also, the noise seems to oscillate as if it is something that's spinning, I'd guess it's at approximately 160 beats per minute. This has been occurring for about a year, it was not this way when I got the car. No mechanics have ever found anything, but it's so loud! And so annoying and embarrassing. This can't be normal, what is it!?
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Just picked up my car from the shop last night. Had a full tune up, air filter replaced, radiator upper hose replaced (was leaking), transmission service and an oil change. When I picked up the car at night I heard that it sounded a little off when starting but I was so excited to have it back that I drove it home. Once I was on the freeway, no weird noises and it drove perfectly fine. This morning when I started it up again the sound was there again. I can only explain it as a sort of high pitched humming. I pulled away from the curb and it made more noise - I heard that sound once when I needed power steering fluid. I put the car in park and popped the hood. Power steering fluid was full. My mom suggested I restart the car so she could hear the sound. This time when I started the car it sounded fine. Typical.
I drove it to work and it drove fine and never made that noise again.
(car is a VW Passat 01')
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Yesterday, I noticed a rattling sound coming from the entire car a 2002 subaru outback 2.5l 4 cylander (it seems a bit louder on the passenger side but it literally can be heard throughout the car). I was on the expressway and got off and stopped at a red light when the check engine light came on and started to flash and the rpm's dropped rapidly and the needle began to bounce up and down. I pulled into a gas station to check it out more and popped the hood to find that when the car is rattling it is also shaking and rocking the engine of the car from side to side slightly.
When I'm idling the rpm's drop and the car feels like it is going to stall out. Then, as I accelerate, the rpm's barely go above 2000 and jump up quickly between 3000 & 4000. It sounds like a metal on metal rattle with a very slight high pitched whistle and you can hear a fan kick on and the engine try to keep the rpm's up every couple of seconds when the car is stopped. I had the timing belts replaced 2 years ago and it sounds very similar to how it did when they needed to be changed, however, the engine never felt like it was going to stall until yesterday.
When idling the noise gets louder and when accelerating it can still be heard but barely. Also, the rattling has caused the entire car to vibrate all of the time. I noticed yesterday that the oil was low and topped it off, but I don't think that would cause such a hige issue so quickly. When I go uphill, i have a good amount of power but every 30 second or so the car shifts and the rpm's jump lurching the car forward because of the surge of power. Also, when I hit the brakes, my rpm's jump slightly to about halfway above the 1 but the engine does not accelerate.
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I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
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I'm having a strange, very high-pitched, noise that seems to be coming from my turbo or (possibly) somewhere else in the engine bay. It sounds very screechy, and it may be paranoia, but I believe it also may have a slight metallic sound to it.
It all started yesterday after changing the thermostat housing for the third time in 2 days (autozone sold me a faulty, warped, housing that leaked after install). During this repair the engine never overheated (it did however leak fluid and go a little low) and the main point for replacement was a stuck thermostat. After finally getting it fixed I took it for a test drive and noticed the horrid noise after hitting a good amount of boost (no gauge installed). The noise occurs when boosting and doesn't happen when spooling in the 3k-4k range. I had no hint of the noise before this.
There doesn't seem to be any drop in performance and it still pulls hard. Hoping this to be a loose exhaust connection or boost leak. May be spooling sound escaping.
Mods:
- short ram air intake with an aem filter
- 3" turbo-back exhausted
- revo chipped
- 4 bar fpr
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Have a very high pitched squeal on cold starts as well as when idle occasionally.
Bad compressor?
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I've been having some issues with the way my car is running today. Drove to the store, and he was fine. On the way home, he hit 4rpm and then dropped extremely fast. Then I stopped at a red light.. I went to go, hit maybe 2.5 rpm and it made this high pitched squeak and shifted really hard. I made it home fine after that, and no lights are coming on. I just changed my spark plugs not even a month ago.
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MK4 ... I have a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T with that weirdo tranny (09A for those in the know) with the psuedo manual tiptronic VWtransmission. I don't think the tiptronic has anything to do with this, but here's my problem.3rd gear has gone missing. The car will over-rev high in 2nd and then BAM into 4th (and not, using the Tiptronic does not ameliorate, nor does using the 2nd to 3rd to 4th on the automatic shifter).
Interestingly, when doing tiptronic the car will reflect on the dash that it thinks it is in/going thru 3rd, but obviously is not. HOWEVER, When it rains, 3rd gear re-appears.I would not say things shift like a dream, but certainly not like the aforementioned nightmare. Up shift and downshift occur on time with an occasional hard shift.
My thoughts are that this is due to solenoid(s) conking out. VW says it is lifetime ATF and makes changing it next to impossible for an ape like me. Is it definitely something (solenoid or something else?)?
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t with unitronic stage 2 ECU and following mods:
ssqv BOV with recirc fitting (so acts like a DV)
3 inch open downpipe
Water/Meth injacetion (-35c washer fluid)
Short ram intake+heat sheild.
Spring loaded wastegate.
So for a while now I could hear a very quiet high pitched sound along with a whoosh sound from the intake at low rpm when the car is cold, after 5-10 minutes of driving the sound changes to where i just hear the wooosh from the intake, no high pitched.
I went out, let my car park for about an hour or 2 in 0c temp. went to drive it,everything is fine, the car just hit 90c. so i floored it, but traction control was on and i have winter tires, so it barley got to 4k rpm. CEL started flashing, no throttle control, really annoying high pitched sound from engine bay with lightest touch of throttle. the trubo was boosting to 22 psi and holding up to 16 PSI at redline before this happened.
The car would struggle to stay at idle, massive vibrations. but after reeving to 2k+ rpm no issue staying at that rpm, no blue/black smoke from exhaust. i scanned it and only got misfire codes and this strange code : "17925 - power supply relay for ecu (J271 or J363): electrical malfunction"
I had to clear the codes 3-4 times and restart the car 3 times for the power supply relay code to go away. but all the misfires, the high pitched sound stayed. it would misfire while driving, then stop, and then again.
I also logged with VCDS, and flooring it from 2k rpm to 2.6k rpm resulted in 0 extra boost over idle (idle boost was 980mbar).
Is my turbo blown 100% because of that sound, or could it be something else causing the "dentist drill" sound? And what about the power relay issue for ECU, could this cause any of the symptoms?
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I have a 2003 Jetta. After it runs for awhile, if I have to shut it off and start it back up - I have to pump the gas to get it started and it idles high and gets flooded. I can smell gas after it gets started. A mechanic already replaced the ignition coil, which wasn't the problem at all.
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This is kind of an odd ball problem since I have not encountered this before, but every time I turn my wheels full left or full right and start moving a really high pitched squeaking sound comes from the front of the car. Is it bad alignment or wear sensors on the brake pads rubbing? the brakes have a lot of pad left so i find that hard to believe.
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2 002 Jetta Bad misfire P0301 a bit long. 02 jetta gls with 2.0 AVH engine auto trans. over summer my brother overheated it & blew head gasket & valves. All parts listed are new between aug and now. I repaired engine as follows new head & bolts head gasket timing belt water pump coolant flange on drivers side new fuel rail and injectors car also has new coil pack, new VW plug wires and 1 week ago new iridium plugs my brother didn?t want car, so i bought it from him. Ran great after I rebuilt top end.
Car did 140 on the turnpike & ran great. once or twice while giving moderate to high throttle CEL would flash and I pulled P0300 as a pending code. Problem stopped after 2 days. last week after 4 hrs of idling(don't ask) started misfiring and CEL flashes constantly P0301 The misfire seems worse at idle and low speed. Car will get to highway speed but has bad pickup. This is what I?ve done/checked New iridium plugs Plug wires 4.5 ohms Coil pack is good and producing enough spark at each wire MAF sensor cleaned Cyl 1 compression good all injectors are clicking and when disconnected cause appropriate CEL error code Brought car to VW dealer for diagnosis VAG COM shows multiple misfire on cyl 1 Mechanic confirmed all the steps I took and components tested ok. He tried new coil pack, new plug and wire for cyl 1 and no change.
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I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
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