Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2013 - Stalled 3 Times?
Jul 6, 2016
My Jetta ( unleaded, automatic transmission) has stalled on me 3 times. It was gone days between stalling. Each time it has stalled I was stopped and on level surfaces. Two of those times it was in park and once it was in drive. Twice I was able to restart the car immediately and once it kept stalling each time I tried to restart it. I waited about 20 minutes and was able to restart it. The system said that the oil viscosity is incorrect but they replaced the oil.
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My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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Shifting from 2 to 3rd seems to hold too long (surging) in many instances. 1st to 2nd is always perfect and smooth. Also it seems to engine brake (rather than gliding) at times when I take my foot off the gas. This is not desirable.
I plan to change the ATF and filter soon. I don't expect this to work but it is a good to do it since it has not been done. VW says it is a life time fill. I am not getting a check engine light.
Is this something that can be modified with software using a VAG Com diagnostic system or similar? Is this indicative of some other issue?
1999 VW Jetta with 01m automatic...
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2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
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I was at the pump getting gas. Left the engine running. Put in gas. Put the cap back. Checked to make sure it was tight. Got back in the car to find that the engine had stalled. I thought maybe just a fluke. Then it happened again a few days later. Same situation. Last night I was sitting at idle (not at the filling station) and same thing. The engine is not running rough --nor is the idle. I seems to take around 5 minutes or so before stalling. It starts right back up no problem. I had a dealer tune-up about 2 months ago. Replaced spark plugs, plug wires, coil, PCV valve, etc. It cost a small fortune. Why this is happening? 2013 VW Jetta 2.0 ....
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My wife and I recently purchased a 2013 Jetta and have noticed some abnormal lag when accelerating. It's an automatic transmission and the gear shifts aren't as smooth as they should be. I have read that it is possibly related to the drive by wire system and may just be an inherent result of that system.
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Question regarding the car failing to accelerate properly that only happens just when I start driving it.
Turn on the car and go, it accelerates fine in first gear. When I switch to second gear it starts shuddering at 20mph and won't go any faster no matter how hard I push the pedal. I switchh to 3rd and its fine until I get to 30mph and then the same thing. I pull over, turn off the car, restart and it's all fine.
I drive a 2004 volkswagen polo 1.2L engine with 100,000 miles or 160k kilometres.
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This morning I started my day as usual, remote started the car via the app to warm her up. I had my ac/heat and heated seats on as usual, everything else was off. After I got into the car I started it up and as I shifted out of park it immediately stalled. I thought I had taken my foot off the brake too quick and restarted the car no problem.
I pulled out of my driveway in reverse and as soon as I went to shift into drive the car stalled again. both times I maintained electricity but engine went dead. I restarted the vehicle and everything was fine for my 15 minute drive. The only message on the dash was to shift back into P OR N.
GM ignition recall debacle immediately popped into my head. My car only has 900 miles on it.
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First time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
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I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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We have had this problem about 3 months. The ac blower wont blow at different times. When it does blow it blows as hard and cold as it should be, however random times when we get in the car and turn the ac or heater on nothing blows out. Occasionally when driving it will just come on but usually if when you turn the car on and its not blowing it wont. We have noticed in the morning it almost always comes on especially now that its colder.
However today after it blowing fine all morning when I got in the car and turned the ac on nothing happens, its about 80 today here. Yesterday it blew fine and cold all day and this morning the heat blew perfectly. Doesn't seem like the blower motor is out since it clearly works when it does run. Maybe a fuse or something in electrical that keeps shorting?
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A/C in my 2015 ES350 (25K miles) has failed 2 times.
1. Outside temp 92 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I wait 5 min. It is still pumping hot air. I switch it off and start again. It pumps cold air.
2. Outside temp 94 Deg. I start the car and turn on the A/C. It is pumping hot air. I turn it off and on. No luck continued to pump hot air. Next morning out side temp 77 Deg. I start the A/C works fine.
I took it to the dealer. He says unless he can see the failure he cannot do any thing.
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Key icon on dash at times = low fob battery? No low battery warning print lit up. Also so happened a couple times on my GS.
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Having problem with the blind spot detector ( BSD ) been intermittent on and off at times. This is a Santa Fe Sport 2014, has been in the shop two times with the same issue and no results.
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My 2013 Sonic has died three times this week. After charging, the car runs fine, and will start up another 5-6 times with no problem. I can even turn the car off immediately after disconnecting jumper cables, and it will turn back on. I took it to Autozone to be tested yesterday, and my battery, alternator, and starter passed. (Alternator is only about 10/11 mos old. Battery and starter have never been replaced) When the battery is dead, I hear a rapid clicking sound, the interior lights are dim, and headlights wont work, Sometimes the dash lights come on, other times they don't.
Some other issues that have been going on which may or may not be related are, catalytic converter and fuel solenoid valve are faulty, and will be replaced this week. Also my car window will go down but will not come up, (no noise when attempting to roll up the window, so i don't think its off track) and the windshield wiper squirts the washer liquid under the hood, and not on the window. (Havent gotten to diagnose those issues yet).
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I got a jetta 1.8t 2003 mk4 models.. Cars at 167km.. My cars oil light keeps going on when I am on low rpm, but when i come to a full stop & check my oil its basically at max.. And I don't know why it goes on? Ive changed my oil switch 4 times.. What can it be? Oil pump?? Or engine gone?
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I am looking at 2013 FX4 with the 5.0 that has 127,000 miles. Truck is pretty clean cosmetically except for the inside of the bed which is pretty rough. When I went to look at the truck I was curious to hear it on initial start up and it was really quiet. I have never heard in person the dreaded knock of the 5.0, only on youtube. After the truck idled for 10min while we talked I did kinda start to hear a little deep but very light thwump, thwump, thwump but it would fade at times and you wouldn't hear anything. I never heard it while I drove the truck. I know there are prob millions of these motors out there and the internet may make it seem worse than it is but would it scare you to buy a 2013 with 127K? I had thought originally that the 2011-2012 were the years with the problems but the latest 5.0 knock thread has me wondering.
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