Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2012 - Engine Light Constantly Popping Up
Aug 6, 2014
I bought a certified pre-owned VW Jetta 2012 in August of 2013 that had 4,500k miles on it.. I currently have 60,000 miles on it. (I drive a ton)... but ever since I bought it my engine makes this jolting feeling when I slow down. it comes and goes and gets worse when I am due for an oil change. I have taken it to the dealer several times about this issue and they say that german engineering...I think differently. My engine light constantly comes on and my problem is still not fixed. What the issue is??? I am clueless about cars.
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I have a 2001 jetta 5 speed. While driving yesterday, I had trouble shifting into second gear. When I took the car out of second, I would hear a slight popping sound. Shifting into the other gears was fine.
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I have an automatic Jetta and just hit 130,000 miles. Recently, my car would randomly after I turn it on and put it in drive, the car would jerk forward and make like a popping noise. Then the car drives fine as usual. As if the gears are slipping? Is this a sign that my transmission is going out? What else can cause this? What should I do?
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It's a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no.
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I have a 2010 Jetta with the 2.5L 5-cylinder that recently threw on the check engine light for 2 days, then the light shut off. It began once I started the car on a coldish (~20F) morning after it had been sitting curbside for several days with the passenger side wheels sitting on about 6 inches of snow so the car was listing to the side. The car fired up immediately but ran extremely rough for about 10 seconds (the engine throbbed sharply about 2-3 times per second, which could be felt through the steering wheel & seat, accompanied by a muted clunk) before I turned it off.
During this time the CEL flashed on and off and then stayed on. I popped the hood, peered stupidly at the plastic engine cover, and restarted the car about a minute later and it ran normally, but the CEL stayed on. I drove it for two days (~50 miles) with the CEL on, but on the third day (today) the CEL did not turn on. The car has been running normally for all three days. What might have caused the rough idle/CEL and whether I can pretend it never happened since the car seems to be running normally for the third day in a row and the CEL has turned off on its own?
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Whenever I fill up my VW bug it has trouble starting .... Starts fine in the morning or if just sitting BUT when I stop and put in new gas it has trouble starting AND then when it does finally start the check engine light comes on and the code says "misfire" which I am sure is a correct code since in fact it has such a hard time starting but why? Why only after filling up with gas ? And what can I do about it ????
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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I drive a 2001 VW Jetta and have had many issues with this car but have had this particular issue many times. It starts when all of a sudden my car feels like it's going to stall when idling. When I go to drive it in this state the car has difficulty excelerating, bucking and sputtering (like the engine isn't getting enough fuel) and the engine light comes on. I have taken it to many shops and they usually replace an oxygen sensor saying that it is clogged etc. I have also had a couple of tune-ups because of it but after about a year the issue comes back and I shell out more money. I was told by one mechanic to use only super gasoline and that it should prevent it from happening again which I did and it held it off from happening again to about a year and a half but now it's back.
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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My engine is in trouble. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on. The diagnostics revealed that my Mass Airflow Sensor was done for. I replaced it, and everything was working fine for a week. Then a couple of days ago, my Electronic Power Control (EPC) light came on. The car is really dragging. It have to gun it to make it go above 60 MPH. It's become scary to drive on highways. Are the two issues potentially connected?
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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2012 Volkswagen Jetta GLI (CBFA engine, 6 speed manual)
So I replaced my clutch earlier today, everything went smooth. Fired up the ride drove it around the block a few times to make sure everything was good. Everything cleared after about 5 minutes no problem. Shut the car off, cleaned up and maybe 20 or 30 minutes later I turned the car on again and there was a CEL and it was pulling those two codes.
The first one is P025c, something to do with low circuit to the Fuel Pump.
The second one is P0238, says "surge to the Turbocharger".
I tried clearing the codes letting the car sit and seeing if that work. Nothing happened.
I'm lost on both of these, I did some reading on some of the Vortex forums, but everybody in that was able to just clear out the P025c and every thread regarding the P0238 was a dead end. Maybe a sensor I bumped? I tried making sure everything was plugged in that was relevant to what I worked on. I missed one of the MAF sensors, I plugged that in and that didn't clear anything.
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Brand new 2012 jetta TDI (less than 1,000 miles). Standard, 6 speed. A few weeks ago, I went to brake, and my pedal went all the way to the floor (no resistance) w/o slowing me down. I let the pedal out (after freaking out a little), and when i went to try again, the brakes kicked in. I was a block from home, so I continued to drive, pulled in to park, and it happened again. Left foot on the clutch, right foot went to brake and went all the way to the floor. Took it straight to the dealer. They checked it, drove it, checked it again. Couldn't find anything.
I've driven about 500 miles since, with no incident. Then, it happened again. My brake pedal literally touched the floor, and didn't even slow me down. I tried pumping. Nothing. Took the pedal all the way out, and then recompressed- worked fine. Drove it to the dealer, happened one more time on the way (had to pull the ebrake to stop).
They have had it 2 days and still can't find anything wrong. I've been driving VWs since I got my license. I've never even owned an automatic, so the whole "maybe you were pressing the clutch instead of the brake" comment is out of the question. What is going on?!
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I recently bought a 2012 VW Jetta. My first German car, it has been both a really fun learning experience and (more often than not) a nightmare to work on. That said, I still am enjoying the car and intend to keep it for a while.
This past weekend, I took the factory wheels off to sand and paint them black, because I thought the car would look nice with black rims (and it was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new set!) Everything went well, I put them back on, and the car drives perfectly. Except it doesn't.
Now, I've got a noise coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the noise, and while I fancy myself a halfway decent Saturday Mechanic; I cannot diagnose or repair this problem myself. I have little to no experience working on drum brakes. All I know is this: the lug nuts are torqued, and the dealer has taken apart the brakes and informed me that nothing is broken or out of place. This cannot be the case - SOMETHING is making that clicking noise!
More information: it sounds JUST like the clicking noise you get when you forget to tighten your lug nuts and go for a drive, the rim moving around on the wheel studs and that noise it makes- this sounds exactly the same... The "click click click click" sound increases tempo as vehicle speed increases, and in volume when you very lightly apply the brakes and turn either direction. I don't know what to do, as usual, the closer I get to the dealership's service manager, the noise fades away.
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so it started like a month ago my door light would occasionally come on for no reason now it's to the point where my door light is always on and it constantly dings, i know its the door lock module but is there any way to tell which door? it might be the trunk and also is there a way to temporarily fix it soi don't drive my car into a tree from being so annoyed.
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I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
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2000 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine with 220k miles, recently started intermittently stalling (about 15-20 minutes into my trip) while driving mostly on city streets but has also stalled on the freeway at 65mph. Fuel level is always > half full, verified against my tripometer. When it stalls, engine completely cuts off, all dashboard lights are all lit, and no power steering.
I have VCDS but know only enough to be dangerous My mechanic has no answers and I don't want to randomly throw new parts at this the car, hoping to resolve the problem. It's becoming seriously dangerous to drive, knowing it will die at least once on every trip. What's the chance the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ?
Symptoms
(1) Most of the time the engine just turns off, as if I turned off the ignition. Other times, I can catch the engine RPMs drop to ~300 and just hit the gas, which sometimes saves car from stalling.
(2) Immediately after it stalls, there is is rotten egg smell.
(3) Once stalled, the engine won't start back up again for at least 5 minutes. (turns over, but doesn't start)
(4) Confirmed error codes from VDCS: misfires on all cylinders and random
(5) Took it to my mechanic for diagnosis. They were unable to duplicate on a road test. Smoke test showed no vacuum leaks, road test monitoring data did not capture any additional faults, and found no faults running it heat soaked and parked. They captured sensor signal data and found no abnormal patterns. They feel replacing the O2 sensors is an expensive guess.
(6) Replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the car would not start at all, one morning. (discovered that the CPS tested at a faulty ~50k ohms). Bought a new one, installed it and it turned over immediately but the stall issue continues)
Fault Codes
Code:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
seen separately
Code:
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 35-10 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
Note that I have been ignoring the ABS-related errors for 4+ years. (not a concern or priority). On the short list are ignition coil or crankshaft sensor. Both of which require my mechanic to replace, I think.
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Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
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I got a jetta 1.8t 2003 mk4 models.. Cars at 167km.. My cars oil light keeps going on when I am on low rpm, but when i come to a full stop & check my oil its basically at max.. And I don't know why it goes on? Ive changed my oil switch 4 times.. What can it be? Oil pump?? Or engine gone?
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