Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2011 - Stalling Typically When Slowing Down
Jul 25, 2013
We purchased our 2011 Jetta SE Automatic brand new - first people to drive it - and have had virtually no problems up until this summer. The car has stalled on us dozens of times now and been to two different dealerships for service a handful of times and no one knows what the problem is. We found that the car typically stalls when we're slowing down; however, it recently stalled when we were in Park. When it stalls, the steering wheel locks up, the breaks are nearly impossible to push and everything seems to shut down except the radio. We're virtually a sitting duck for other cars.
When this happens, we're able to put the car back in park, turn it off and back on and drive fine for a while. It seems to be happening more frequently but the dealership hasn't been able to replicate the issue - there are no codes left on the computer and they've literally taken the car apart and can't find anything wrong. They've even 'driven' it for 200 miles and still, nothing. Initially we were told it was bad gas, then we were told it was an operating system update. Now they're trying to tell us that it's our driving style but multiple people in my family have driven the car with the same effect - stalling spontaneously while slowing down, stopping or trying to break.
We've also noticed skipping or slipping between gears when we're at higher speeds but I'm not sure if that's related. It almost feels like your foot falls off the accelerator or slips while you're driving but instead you're actually applying constant pressure.
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Brand new 2012 jetta TDI (less than 1,000 miles). Standard, 6 speed. A few weeks ago, I went to brake, and my pedal went all the way to the floor (no resistance) w/o slowing me down. I let the pedal out (after freaking out a little), and when i went to try again, the brakes kicked in. I was a block from home, so I continued to drive, pulled in to park, and it happened again. Left foot on the clutch, right foot went to brake and went all the way to the floor. Took it straight to the dealer. They checked it, drove it, checked it again. Couldn't find anything.
I've driven about 500 miles since, with no incident. Then, it happened again. My brake pedal literally touched the floor, and didn't even slow me down. I tried pumping. Nothing. Took the pedal all the way out, and then recompressed- worked fine. Drove it to the dealer, happened one more time on the way (had to pull the ebrake to stop).
They have had it 2 days and still can't find anything wrong. I've been driving VWs since I got my license. I've never even owned an automatic, so the whole "maybe you were pressing the clutch instead of the brake" comment is out of the question. What is going on?!
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Why my 2002 volkswagen jetta station wagon is jerking, resetting the clock, flashing all the indicators on the dash, and Its stalling. When it start it to drive the transmission won't shift until it runs for about 5-10 minutes. One mechanic said the computer keeps resetting itself. The dealer said I needed a new transmission, but after 5 minutes the transmission shifts. It only has 117,000 miles.
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I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
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I have a 2011 Jetta 5 spd, was driving today and suddenly I could not shift in 4th, 5th or reverse. This is the first time this as happen, I have never had any issues with the far. I don't know much about transmissions. The clutch seems to be working fine as I can shift with ease from 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
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I have had the car sense it was brand new and sense I have had it I have had this problem. I mostly notice a problem soon after starting the engine up and come to a stop, but is not limited to that all the times. When I come to a stop the car will feel like it is struggling to maintain an idle as I sit at the light or stop sign and it will actually shake the car a bit. I have noticed when it does do this the fan is on and it might be related to having the alternator trying to keep up with power draw.
I have noticed a loss of power when I am driving down the road it will cut out for maybe a half a second and come back. Usually doesn't happen more than once in one trip. I have brought it to the dealership multiple times to try and see if the can hunt down a problem but it keeps coming back with a clean bill of health. So my question is it something that is normal with diesel engines or is it something that I should take a further look at.
And while on the topic of diesel engines, my uncle a mechanic for diesel engines suggested that I spray a small amount of propane into the air intake to burn up sludge to keep the engine relatively clean. Need to get second opinion of that idea before I try it?
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My wife's 2011 Volkswagen Jetta (2.0 I believe) is misfiring again. We took it to the dealership about 6 months ago and they said that the ignition coil had gone bad. They replace the ignition coil and said that the plugs needed changing as well. I went to Auto Zone and got some decent plugs and changed them myself at home without much problem. It seemed to work with the problem (although it didn't seem to completely fix it) for a while, but it just recently went back to misfiring. The current symptom is that it seems to misfire when the car is warming up, but misfires less when the car is warm.
The dealership says that the plugs that we got were not recommended by the dealer (they recommended Bosch) and that they need to be replaced. I think this is BS and it is not going to fix the problem.
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Jetta starts making a noise on the front left side when I turn sharp rights like in parking lots. There is no VW dealer within a 2hr drive. Take it to local auto repair shop. The guy says it's the wheel bearings on the front left. The Jetta makes a different sound originating from the left front than originally still when turning right sharply.
BTW this sound isn't very loud and is not grinding or popping more of a whoopwhooopwhoooop Go home take off tire. One lugbolt twists off with fingers. First bad sign. Rotors on front not pretty but pretty smooth brake pads look brand new. Still really thick no uneven wear.
Do a sharp left u turn to get to auto parts store. Afs/bulb failure pops on. Solid warning light yet all the bulbs are working fine.
Turn car off. Go buy rotors. Ask about light no one knows. Go back out start car. Light is gone.. okay that was weird.
Replace rotors anyway so they are nice and shiny lube up the important parts. Put everything back together.back out of garage stupid bulb light is back on... restart jetta Its off.
Start driving everything sounds fine... parking lot test left turns quiet right turn SAME FREAKING NOISE. It has never made any noise when driving straight or on curvy road just sharp right turns.
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We recently purchased a (used) 2010 Volkswagen Routan with approximately 40k miles. Almost immediately we noticed a loud noise whenever we began to slow down in city traffic. The noise is loudest after the car has been driven for a while. It sounds like metal knocking around. The dealership claims the brake pads are causing this noise. They said the pads are perfectly good but are two different brands and this is what is causing the sound. I do not believe brake pads would continue to make this noise after 3 months if they were good. I am also not convinced it is the brake pads at all.
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My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
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Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
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I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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I have a 2005 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6 which I bought 6 weeks ago. It has 103,000 miles on the clock. I mainly use it for going to school and getting around town etc but on Sunday I had to take my parents back. It's a round trip of 230 miles. Weather was sunny. Traffic on the Expressway so a lot of slowing down, stopping, setting off cycles but no issues. On the way home, about two toll plazas from my exit on the I90, I noticed that the engine sounded and felt like I was driving in a higher gear than that required for the speed I was doing (5 mph). It's an automatic (which I'm not used to as I've always driven manual) so I don't make any gear changes but if I'd been in a manual, it felt like I was in 2nd when I should have been in 1st. Does that make sense?
Anyhow, so I managed not to stall at the toll plazas but when I exited, the engine stalled 3 times (twice at intersections and finally when I pulled up outside my house). There is no problem starting the car after this has happened. I called my local autoshop who said to bring it in Tuesday so I didn't drive it Monday. Tuesday morning, it felt exactly the same when I was slowing down for traffic, intersections, turnings etc. The autoshop had it 3 days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. There is no data stored on the computer to show any of this happened and it has driven fine for them when they've taken it out. Beyond frustrated! I know what I heard and felt. Someone mentioned the overdrive staying on but I don't know what that means.
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2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
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My 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!
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I have a 99 VW Golf Wolsburg that I bought used a few years ago. I can't figure out what else I need to do to keep it running. I have done the following: oil changes, replaced spark plugs and wires, replaced crank shaft position sensor, replaced muffler, replaced distributor cap, ignition rotor, made repairs to coolant flange, and replaced the fuel pump wire conections. It has stalled out on me while driving and then won't start, leaving me stranded and having to be towed. Sometimes I come back to it and its just fine, and then does it again at a later time. Usually the CEL code is P0304/P0341. After another trip to the mechanic the CEL came on again with P0341.Now what?
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I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
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When I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
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