Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2009 - Right Front Headlight Was Not Functioning
Jan 3, 2014
Driving to MA from PA, stopped for a meal, got back in car & got msg on info panel that R front headlight was not functioning. It was raining hard, but still daylight in late afternoon. Checked other lights & all seemed ok - running light working. Back in car - another 175 miles to go & it became evident R turn signal wasn't working. Did get to MA early evening, checked lights again & found that brake lights weren't working & more. VW dealer in town checked it out next day & said 30 amp fuse for lighting was melted w/fuse block, which they removed & replaced. Turns out I'm not the first person - VW instantly said they'd refund the $531 it cost, which tells me they're aware it's a fault of theirs. I'm wondering - what caused this? Google tells me they've had probs with this with Tiguans & a bunch of recalls. What's to stop it from happening again? What would have caused the fuse to melt in the first place? My husband has a 2013 Jetta TDI. Does that mean his car is at risk?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Long time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
View 5 Replies
I know a few days ago all of my blinker lights were working properly since I had the car serviced at the dealer and they made me test all the lights before I dropped it off. But yesterday my "check the lights" yellow lightbulb indicator came on, so I thought, ok, probably one of lights burned out. But then, when I needed to turn left, I saw my blinker on the dashboard blink with twice the usual frequency, but the only turning light I could see from behind the wheel, on the left mirror was blinking normally.
So, I stopped, got out of the car and looked around to find that neither of my front or rear left blinkers were working at all. So, here come the questions. How likely is it for BOTH lights to burn out at exactly same time? If they did, would this cause the dashboard blinker to blink at twice the usual rate? And if so, why is the mirror blinker blinks at normal rate? By the way, the right blinker is not affected by this strange affliction. Continuing, what is the best way to find out if this is
(a) capacitor problem,
(b) burned-out light(s) or
(c)(worst possible case)problem with a very expensive control board.
View 2 Replies
Last year I had carbon deposits cleaned on all 4 cylinders and fuel injectors replaced at a local shop. The same shop that did this work is now telling me that my crankshaft cradle needs to be resealed because it is leaking oil. There wasn't an oil leak issue prior to the carbon cleaning and replacement of injectors and they were the last people under my hood. I am wondering if this leak could have been caused by faulty reassembly or other damage after cleaning the cylinders and replacing the fuel injectors? I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 with about 75,000 miles.
View 8 Replies
2009 VW Jetta TDI... Both low beam/running headlights are not working. I tried to check the fuses but, according to my owners manual both left and right fuse slots are empty. I don't think both fuses fell out. Where the headlight fuses are supposed to be?
View 2 Replies
I have been having trouble trying to release the lever under the hood on my 2009 Jetta. the interior lever seems to be working but when I attempt to depress the hood lever it won't budge! I like to check my oil on a regular basis and I have never had this challenge before. I'm also worried that if I am able to release it that I will not be able to secure it afterwards, rendering my vehicle inoperable. I am strongly considering just taking it for an oil change and "springing" the dilemma on the garage.
View 3 Replies
The VW Owners Manual for my 2009 VW TDI Jetta indicates that the automatic transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 40,000 miles. However my independent mechanic's "after market" maintenance manuals say that the DSG should not be touched for the life of the car. I am perplexed
View 10 Replies
Jetta starts making a noise on the front left side when I turn sharp rights like in parking lots. There is no VW dealer within a 2hr drive. Take it to local auto repair shop. The guy says it's the wheel bearings on the front left. The Jetta makes a different sound originating from the left front than originally still when turning right sharply.
BTW this sound isn't very loud and is not grinding or popping more of a whoopwhooopwhoooop Go home take off tire. One lugbolt twists off with fingers. First bad sign. Rotors on front not pretty but pretty smooth brake pads look brand new. Still really thick no uneven wear.
Do a sharp left u turn to get to auto parts store. Afs/bulb failure pops on. Solid warning light yet all the bulbs are working fine.
Turn car off. Go buy rotors. Ask about light no one knows. Go back out start car. Light is gone.. okay that was weird.
Replace rotors anyway so they are nice and shiny lube up the important parts. Put everything back together.back out of garage stupid bulb light is back on... restart jetta Its off.
Start driving everything sounds fine... parking lot test left turns quiet right turn SAME FREAKING NOISE. It has never made any noise when driving straight or on curvy road just sharp right turns.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
View 3 Replies
I have the most annoying high-pitched squeak/whine coming from my front left tire. For those who cant see the video, its making a high pitched, metal on metal noise... at all speeds... especially when making slight turns... my foot was not on the brake when the video was taken (coasting around the parking lot at around 10 mph)...
View 4 Replies
I've been dealing with a frustrating issue for a while now. Whenever I use my key fob the alarm sets but my front and back driver side doors won't lock. After playing around I've noticed that the driver's side door locks when actually inserting the key and turning. Also, all of the doors lock when I am sitting in the driver's seat and push the lock button on the door panel but the back driver's side door won't unlock unless I crank the vehicle and hit the unlock button. I don't think the key fob has a low battery because I've used both key fobs and it locks one side but not the other. It's all very weird to me. The situation is frustrating for two reasons:
1) Doors are not actually locking so thieves have access to whatever they can grab and run away;
2) I occasionally forget to hit the unlock button and cause my alarm to go off and annoy neighbors, coworkers, etc.
What could be causing this? I'd like a quick fix but I'm afraid I'm going to have to open up the door panels and play around all weekend.
View 5 Replies
My GF recently purchased a used 2009 Corolla LE when a yuppie type with a bad texting habit, rear ended and totaled her last ride.
It is a great little car with excellent handling and performance. We also enjoy the 30mpg's and sub $40 fill ups.
I drove it recently and noticed a knobby tire sound coming from the rear of the car. I rotated the tires to see if the noise moved with the tires and it did not (this was to rule out a cupping tire). I suspected a wheel bearing / hub failing and took it to my mechanic buddy to confirm. He agreed with me as there are really no other moving parts back there other than the brake shoes. I had already taken it down the highway and gently applied the parking brake to rule that out. No change when the parking brake was applied at highway speeds.
Found the hub assy at Rock Auto and it took about 30 minutes to replace. It comes complete with an abs sensor. The hub housing was blue from excessive heat so it was about to seize or fail completely which would have been ugly.
the bearing rides is actually blue from excessive heat.....
View 14 Replies
I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
View 1 Replies
I got a jetta 1.8t 2003 mk4 models.. Cars at 167km.. My cars oil light keeps going on when I am on low rpm, but when i come to a full stop & check my oil its basically at max.. And I don't know why it goes on? Ive changed my oil switch 4 times.. What can it be? Oil pump?? Or engine gone?
View 19 Replies
Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
View 5 Replies
2003 VW Jetta VR6: Headlights are not coming on...reliably, at least. Both halogen bulbs have been changed twice in the last 5 months. This is what I know of the headlight issue I'm having:
If the bright light indicator on my heads-up display is on when I start the car, I have no headlights. Switching between high and low beam in the car does not do anything when this bright indicator is stuck on...I have only found one fix...see number 2.
I get out of the car and tap on the front right headlight...the lights come on, but the front right is much brighter than the left. The lights are on the low-beam setting at this point. Only tapping the front light gets the lights to come on...high beams do work once I get the lights to turn on.
Once the lights are on, they do not reliably stay on...they might turn off while driving down the road. Pulling over and tapping on the front right light will get them to turn back on. (think this might be a loose wire issue? if so... i can't figure out where, or what needs to be done to fix it...)
Very odd thing... prior to starting the car, the bright light indicator is on...I pull up on emergency brake and it toggles the bright light indicator. I get out of the car and tap the light, lights are on, go back in the car and pull up on the emergency brake...the lights go out. Put the emergency brake down, the lights come back on.
I'm completely perplexed by this headlight issue.
View 6 Replies
2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
View 1 Replies
I was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
View 4 Replies
2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
View 3 Replies
I have been having a problem with an oil leak around this sensor port in my Jetta, I'm not really sure which sensor this is. The sensor itself is covered with a rubber hood that covers the connector, when I start the engine, it blows this hood back, revealing the blue plastic of the sensor.
I have a 1997 VW Jetta GT with the 2.0 liter A series gasoline engine. ,
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Volkswagen Jetta with 78K miles. The brakes are squeaking, so I am assuming that the front brake pads need to be replaced. The front brake pads were replaced in 2010 (I don't remember the mileage).
View 2 Replies
